I got this the other day:
http://www.shiningbeam.com/servlet/the-176/3-dsh-Mode-Regulated-Circuit-Board/Detail
for my Romisen RC-G2 that I modded with a Nichia 219
diameter was pretty much dead on 14mm, which was a hair too narrow for the pill ID on the Romisen (between 14.5 and 15mm), but the little tabs sticking out made it fit perfectly. I replaced the wires with something beefier (OCD I guess) then soldered it into the pill with a couple of pieces of soldered wire bridging the gap between driver and pill.
not pretty, but it's well hidden away :)
Much anticipation was experienced as the trusty DMM was whipped out and waved at the torch. Much disappointment was experienced when the values on the DMM were read :(
With the stock driver and Nichia 219, LED current was 0.3A and tail cap current was 2.38A (!)
With the Shiningbeam driver and same LED, LED current/ tail cap current readings were:
High 0.26A/ 1.7A (1:6.5)
Med 0.13A/ 0.73A (1:5.6)
Low 0.02A/ 0.42A (1:21!)
Which makes the driver marginally more efficient than the original driver (1:7.4), but at a lower output, which kinda sucks. It's also less efficient in all three modes than the Fasttech driver I put in my other RC-G2. Modes are well spaced, with each being useable and the steps between them are noticeable, even at this paltry output.
Memory works perfectly (yay!), although it's somewhat counterintuitive to change modes. It doesn't change modes with a double click or tap-tap, instead the torch has to be off, then tapped to the mode wanted before pressing the switch all the way. I'm guessing that this is a forward clicky and that's why it's odd?
So, overall, i got what I wanted, which was a lower mode for bedtime/ camping reading and longer runtime with useable output. A bit miffed that I gave up some output to do so, but there's no such thing as a free lunch :)
Now I just have to put my new XP-E2 NW in my other RC-G2..