[Review] Nitecore EDC27

Nitecore EDC27


At the end there will be a summary for those who like only particulars. In each topic I will bold the key sentences, so it will be easier to notice what’s the most important. Enjoy!


Check the official Nitecore website: http://www.nitecore.com

Read about the Nitecore EDC27: https://flashlight.nitecore.com/product/edc27



Table of Contents:

  • General parameters

  • Package content

  • Appearance, parameters

  • UI, heat dissipation and charging

  • PWM

  • Waterproofness

  • Light pattern, tint

  • Beamshots

  • Gallery and Summary



General Parameters

Type Description
Material Stainless steel + carbon fiber frame
Reflector TIR, clear plastic
Lens plastic TIR, not protected by glass
LED 2x Luminus SST40 cool white
Brightness 3000lm max, theoretical
Throw 220m
Switch 2x electronic tail switch
Modes 5 + strobe
Mode memory Yes
Battery Built-in 1700mAh Li-Ion battery
Overheating protection Yes
Low voltage protection Yes
Waterproof IP54
Impact resistance 1m
Size [Diameter: (Head: 31mm / Tube: 31mm)] / Length: 136mm
Weight Flashlight + battery: 124g


Package content

Inside were:

  • Flashlight

  • Lanyard

  • 2 spare o-rings

  • Manual


Yes, the lanyard came broken, what a pity. What can I do if I ever need to attach one? I will have to choose from my 72 other lanyards that I don’t use. What a shame. Nitecore, please do better in the future so I can have more unnecessary things randomly lying around.



Appearance, parameters


It looks really great, to be honest. At first I was a bit sceptic about its shape, but now I like it.


Let’s dive deeper:
On the front there is a plastic clear TIR optics. It is unfortunately not protected by glass, so it will get scratched fairly easy.

2x SST40 6500K is able to output 3000lm, which is really impressive for this size flashlight. It is not that far from XHP70.2, but look at its size

Don’t get me wrong, I’m not fooled by its power and won’t recommend only small flashlight with a lot of power. I know it cuts both ways, and it is indeed bright, but for a short time, due to small mass and quick overheating.

It would be even more unfair to compare its size to different flashlights with similar output. Let’s do this:

LoOk HoW mUch biGgeR the CoNvOY is cOmPaRed tO tHis NitECoRe. WHY IS IT SO BIG?

To have a different, 2S driver? Probably. To have good thermal mass? Yeah. To have longer runtime? Well, yes.


On the other hand it is about the size of FW1A Pro, I think. I don’t remember its name, it is basically next FW3A iteration Lumintop manufactured seeing how popular the original FW3A is and how much money can they squeeze out of it. Both outputs sits at around 3000 lumens.

So, it is safe to say, making a 3000 lumen flashlight this size is not that unique, and Nitecore is not making something unique in terms of its size. EDC27 is unique in other ways (OLED display, UI, copper elements to mention only a few).

On top there is a small, tiny OLED display that is able to display several key informations, like current battery voltage, brightness, and runtime left on current mode.

I once made a joke by mentioning it can also show the current weather forecast and showed this:

But there were someone saying that reviews should be honest, without misleading informations.
He probably had a bad day. Or was a Grouchy Smurf

The flashlight has a good grip thanks to rough textured carbon fiber frame.

It also has a detachable metal clip, as every EDC flashlight should have

Built-in Li-Ion battery is good. You can also see the copper heat dissipation fins, under the clip.



UI, heat dissipation and charging


UI

It’s insane!

I really appreciate thinking and engineering behind the UI. Seriously, there are 2 switches, and one of them has 5 different functions, and the other has 2.

I’m impressed by the first square small button

You can:

  1. See actual voltage by short half press

  2. Activate ultralow mode by long half press

  3. Turn the flashlight on and off by a full press

  4. Change modes by short half press when turned on

  5. Turn on lockout mode by long half press when turned on

And I know there is Anduril out there where you can enter a lockout mode by a 6-click, change ramping by 3-click, turn on strobe by 8-click followed by 2-click, change temperature threshold by 12-click followed by wait and then 35-click if you need 65°C, or you can change aux led color and brightness by 16-click then jump and wait, then 4-click to change color, then crouch, do a quick 5-click and hold (for approx. 1.5s, not longer), flashlight starts blinking, wait for the 9th blink if you need dim aux light, 11th blink if you prefer stronger light, otherwise wait for the 17th blink, press and hold, loosen and tighten the head (still pressing the button), flashlight will blink quickly 10 times and slowly 5 times and you’re ready to go.

Yes

Sorry @ToyKeeper

Anyway, the second button (with “MODE” on it) is used exclusively for turbo and strobe.


Heat dissipation

Integrated copper cooling fins (very small cooling fins). Is it really helping? I mean, copper is good, but I am not sure if it makes a significant difference here.


Charging

Built-in USB type C charging port, not very well covered by the plasticky cover.
Only IP54, that’s probably why.



PWM

Hardly visible, only with a phone camera. This is of course a very good result.



Waterproofness

Declared IP54, which means „Dust protected. Prevents ingress of dust sufficient to cause harm” + „Protect against water sprayed from all directions
Trust me, you don’t really need IP68 in your next EDC flashlight. What you want to do with it? Dive? Then it won’t be enough. It would be great to have IP56 here, but IP54 is enough in 90% of situations.



Light pattern, tint

2x Luminus SST40 6500K, plastic clear TIR optics, max declared brightness 3000K
Beam from about 70cm from the wall. It looks square-ish, but I am honestly surprised. I never noticed it before, and I am using this flashlight for some time now. You won’t notice it too, probably.

Beam profile from about 10cm from the wall.
As I mentioned early, it does look greenish here (at least for me). It is because of my new camera, I am considering messing with more detailed settings, because white balance at 5000K simply doesn’t render the color correctly.
It does not look nearly as greenish as here.



Beamshots

ISO200
t2s
f/3.5
5000K white balance

General picture of what the forest looks like:


Beamshots of Nitecore EDC27:




This is so confusing. Is it an EDC flashlight, or maybe a 3000lm XHP70.2 big 21700 flashlight? It turns out it’s both, only with 2x SST40 instead of XHP70.2
And again, I have a new camera, and it seems that setting WB at 5000K does not look


And more common use scenario:



In my opinion 200lm is plenty enough for just walking and hiking. Nearly 4 hours of runtime on that brightness is also a lot. But everyone’s different, so it could be too low for you, maybe you need at least 1000 lumens, or it could be too high, like for my brother who is completely fine with 50lm.



Gallery








Summary

Nitecore EDC27 is a unique flashlight, in a good way.
First of all, it’s an EDC flashlight, so it should be small, lightweight, well protected against water and dust, should also have a neutral tint, good CRI, and not so floody, but not so narrow beam.
EDC27 is not perfect. if you need something to really use every day, this is probably not the best choice.
But if you need a flashlight to use occasionally / light EDC, then it’s a good option. IP54 will be enough in most situations, OLED display is really handy, the flashlight has a unique design and a lot of power, 3000lm to be exact.


Pros:

  • 3000lm, small body

  • Unique design, practical (big metal clip, textured sides for better grip)

Cons:

  • Plastic front element, prone to scratches

  • Buttons are feeling wonky, not the best tactile feedback


If you have any questions, put them below, thanks for sticking for a while :slight_smile:

1 Thank

Very nice review, been looking at this light for a while. Very tempted to throw a pair of the 3V XHP50.3 HI in this thing and see what happens.

1 Thank

I’d disagree with a few things…

No, it is horrible. Making disposable devices is not nice.

Any noticeable PWM, by camera or not, is bad. Not good.

Again, no.
My personal use case would be sweat. Having to do some physical work outside during summer i can tell from practice - anything not submersion rated would last for a week or so at most. Then there is simple rain and the light sitting in wet clothing or backpack.
Given vast majority of lights have way better water protection (even cheap stuff which is not rated at all) there is very little reason to buy something with ip54.

I certainly was not clear with this. I meant the battery itself is good, not the fact it is built-in.
By the way, it is of course very nice to care about the environment, and allow users to replace batteries. But a Li-Ion cell should remain 80% of its original capacity after 500 cycles. If someone is planning to use it more than a smartphone, then sure, should choose a different flashlight. It’s interesting that smartphones also have built-in battery, but people don’t seem to hate it, and buy different smartphones instead.

I agree it is better to not have PWM at all than have. But I’m always considering what type of flashlight it is, what are the use scenarios. This flashlight (1700mAh battery, 6500K CCT, dedicated big strobe button) is completely different than a 90+ CRI, 4500K CCT, honeycomb TIR headlamp. The first flashlight won’t probably be used for a long time, just to shine here and there, maybe for a short walk, like 30 min max.
The second one is a completely different story, it is focused to have a good quality beam of light. People will probably use it for hiking, which sometimes means 4 hours of walking to see sunrise, also for reading, and in their jobs, if someone is a car mechanic.
Soo, I think in this case, that quick PWM (which I am unable to notice waving the flashlight in front of my eyes as fast as possible) is a very good result.
Anduril flashlights all and each one have slower (worse) PWM, and despite that, it is much appreciated.

I also wrote:

If you tested several IPX4 flashlights from different brands and most of them lasted “for a week or so” then you are probably in those 10% (which btw was just my guess, nothing scientific) that need better water protection.

IPX4 means complete protection against splashes of water from any angle. IPX5 means protection against a direct spray of pressurized water.
If your “simple rain” means 30 liters per minute sprays of pressurized water, then you probably live in Florida.

That would be…bright. :sunglasses:
From its brightness I guess the battery can deliver 8A max at full power (1x SST40 6500K @ 5A gives ~ 1700lm)

Yes, i dislike phones too. I do replace batteries sometimes, but thing with phones is - they’ve invented more than one way to make them obsolete fast. Have to replace anyway when stuff stops working acceptably, even if the battery is fine.

Problem with flashlight is - it normally lasts for a long time, because unlike phone it is not designed to stop performing its primary function in a couple of years (yet?). So the battery is bound to die if used relatively actively.

That said - i actually can accept built in battery like this for the sake of interesting form factor, because it would be impossible otherwise. I just do not consider it good and misunderstood what you said.

My main problem here is - it is totally possible to make driver with (at least) fast enough pwm for it to be not detectable or with no PWM at all. It is a matter of cost saving, and this light is not cheap. I always expect good drivers from pricey flashlights, regardless of intended use, so detectable PWM in this case is disappointing. In something cheap it might have been an acceptable compromise though.

Trouble is, both “4” and “5” are not watertight. They can be protected from spray etc, but once put in a wet pocket water gets in. So using “4”/“5” light in a rain would be totally fine, but carrying it in wet clothing means issues.

I also mentioned sweat for a reason. The stuff is extremely corrosive, as soon as it gets inside electronics die fast.

I modified mine to be high CRI XML. Ra 93 and tint at 3000K.

Gallery

1 Thank

Looks amazing!

I like Nitecores UIs. If their hardware was engineered like their firmware, I wouldn’t want anything else. But it isn’t. At least my TIP CRI has a beautiful 219B. They might accidentally have gotten this right.

Nice review!

1 Thank

Wow! Fantastic! Are you for hire? Lol

Thanks! It was tricky… not sure if I’d do it again…