I didn’t had information about this, I’ll ask my contact to know.
It’ll be available on Amazon.fr on June the 10th though.
The CR123A is 2,43V after the light shuts off.
It means that a 16340 will surely finish at a comparable voltage.
okok thanks for info X3.
Tactical but starts from low?
I don’t get it.
What about the switch, e switch or analog forward/reverse click?
Standard clicky forward switch.
I’m sure it’s not meant to be “tactical”, but more like a backup in fact
If it had momentary high I’d be all over it (and 18350 compatibility would be a no question buy).
As is , it’s a maybe as a gift light.
I agree - its time to adapt to new type of batteries and not just stick to the old cr123/16340… i dont get them.
I’m fine with it in their tiny lights, but this thing doesn’t make sense.
Some time ago, my M1T Raider started having issues with the switch/tailcap. Pressing it momentarily or full click was a pain, as the rubber cap got stuck or was too slow to make another quick press/click.
So I e-mailed Olight about this situation and informed them about it. I got fast replies, and they were very kind to send me another tailcap, that arrived today.
I paid for the DHL transportation more than I would pay for a new light, but…that’s fine 
I now have a working light again 
BUT…as I had the “old” damaged tailcap, I decided that if it was damaged I would salvage it to show how the tailcap is composed, all in the name of “flashlight science” 
So, here are some photos of its composition:
It can be decomposed in 3 main parts. I put the lower part (RIGHT) out with the help of a knife; made some pressure and it eventually got released (it is press fit and has some flaps that will fit into a groove in the metal structure).
Then I picked a flame lighter and applied some heat on the top part of the tailcap. I didn’t know if it was glued or not but I took my chance (then I realized there is some glue on it).
After that, I picked two pliers and rotated the both parts (MIDDLE and LEFT) in opposite directions. It started to unscrew. I used a tissue not to damage the threads too much with the pressure.
After that, I started taking the pieces that you find in the photo of the right.
TOP: Metal structure + white o-ring + rubber/plastic tailcap with a pin inside + spring + spacer
MIDDLE: Metal structure + 2 o-rings (1 interior, 1 outside) + thin brass spacer + switch on PCB and spring
LOWER: Metal brass cap + plastic holder
Later I found out that what was causing the issue in the pressing was the lack of lubricant in the white o-ring inside the tailcap. So I applied some, and now the “old” switch is working fine now 
I’ll keep it just in case, or maybe I will use it in another flashlight Lets see!
All and all, I have to thank Olight for the fast reply and customer support service! 