4.5 out of 5.0
R43S 4x Cree XM-L T6 Flashlight from Aurabuy
I would like to extend a big Thank you to Aurabuy for sending this light for review. Check out their Website here here
Mfr Specifications
Brand: OEM/Generic
Model: 4x XM-L T6
Emitter Brand: Cree
LED Type: XM-L
BIN: T6
Color: Black
Number of Emitter: 4
Voltage Input: 8.4V - 12.6V
Battery Configuration: 3x 18650 (Series)
Circuitry: 1200mA (Manufacturer rating)
Brightness: 3200 Lumens (Manufacturer rating)
Runtime: 3 hours (manufacturer rating)
Number of Modes: 3 + Strobe
Mode Arrangement: High > Medium > Low > (Fast Strobe - hidden)
Mode Memory: No
Switch Type: Reverse clicky + Side clicky
Switch Location: Rear of Light & Side of light behind head
Lens: Glass Lens
Reflector: Aluminum Smooth/SMO
Beam Range: 280m (Manufacturer rating)
Strap Included: No
Dimensions: 12.20 in x 2.52 in x 2.52 in (31 cm x 6.4 cm x 6.4 cm)
Weight: 432g
Price: USD $67.98 Use code: 683B10off for a 10% discount
I'm sure most of you guys remember the Skyray 3T6 4000 ? Well I have to admit that this light reminds me of that old timer.
How about a 4T6 ? I think this R43S from Aurabuy certainly bears more than a striking resemblence to the Skyray, right down to the internals.. Read on
So the light arrived from Aurabuy very well packaged in a sturdy box with the light Securely Bubble-Wrapped inside.
This parcel was sent to the UK via Singapore Post.
Here is how the box arrived (well Packaged)
Upon opening the box, here is the light, securely wrapped for extra protection.
After some admiration of the light, I quickly assembled the battery tube and took it for a photoshoot.
Here is the light fully assembled, it's fairly long but a very handsome beast. And don't let the length put you off! this light has what any long light 'Should' have.. A switch that's in the 'Right' place
And a quick look at the business end..
Smooth as silk, and that thick Aluminium bezel would chafe a tad if you dropped it on your big toe!
Taking a quick look at the front of the light shows all the LED's well centered in their respective reflector portion.
If you notice the black marks in the reflection, this turned out to be Flux residue stuck to the emmiter domes.
It came off for the most part and is probably from the factory which produced the lights, due to flux splashes when the wires were soldered to the MCPCB.
Nevertheless, it passed through QC.
If you're a little OCD like me, the LED's not all orientated in the same manner might bug you.
Another closer look at the front.
Let's give the light a closer inspection.
The Exterior
Here is the R43S broken down into it's five main parts and as you can see, there is a battery extension tube which comes supplied with the light.
This enables the use of Three 18650 cells or Two cells without the extension tube.
Starting from the tailcap we'll move along the light toward the head.
The tailcap is fairly sturdy with two slots which will allow a good sized, fairly thick lanyard to be used.
Due to the design with the cutout slots machined at the rear, the light will still tailstand with a lanyard attached. (I wouldn't recommend this in full length configuration due to the topheavy instability, but it can be done)
The cutout slots also allow the switch to be activated in an overhand grip.
One thing worth mentioning and shown in the images below is the rather shallow knurling on the tailcap circumference. It offers very little grip so replacing cells with gloves might be awkward.
While the lack of grip isn't of any concern to me personally, for those of you living in colder climates with harsh winters, it may be a potential issue to consider.
The rubber switch boot is very good quality and offers plenty of grip and doesn't feel spongy at all.
Cosmetically, there are a few minor marks on this tailcap where the anodizing has been scratched, also highlighted below.
Moving towards the head and looking at the extender tube shows that the grip is lacking in this area too. It could pose a potential scenario where the light could be dropped while replacing cells.
This isn't so much of a problem while in general use due the to mode switch location.
The thread quality on the main body tube and the extender tube is of a high quality. While not completely square threads, they are strong and very smooth indeed.
Below is shown the extender tube by itself along with a shot of the main tube and extender tube threads (Both potential locations for tailcap attachment)
The extender tube
Below is the extender tube and main body tube threads (The O-rings are good quality and came pre-greased)
The Main body tube
Next up is the main body tube. It's good to see that there's a lot more grip at this section.
Since this light has a mode switch near the head, it tends to be this section of the light that is held when in use, moreso than with a regular 'tailswitch only' light.
As can be seen below, there is a much more substantial area for a secure grasp of the light when in normal use.
This will also help somewhat with heat dissipation due to the fins, or at least help to keep the cells cool inside.
The threads on the 'Head End' of the main body tube, as with all the others shown, are very strong and almost square cut.
These threads and O-ring were lightly lubricated and feel very smooth.
The Head section
Moving on to the two sections of the head shows excellent machining and good quality anodizing (really it's only the tailcap that had a few cosmetic anodizing flaws)
Machined vanes can be seen around the neck and around the switch section to help dissipate internal generated heat. The anodizing is good here too with no light patches in or around any of the tight corners.
The mode switch has a very positive feel and only needs a light push to activate the light and to change modes. Despite only the light pressure required, it always makes a crisp audible click when depressed.
The only minor niggle I have with this switch is perhaps it could benefit from being raised just slightly higher so it protrudes further from the head.
I have found that I can be fumbling in the dark, trying to feel where the switch is located.
Other than that one small niggle, the switch feels and performs flawlessly.
The mode switch itself can be seen in clearer detail in this next image
The two head sections separated, shows excellent quality threads yet again, with a good quality lubricated O-ring. (The threads here are fully anodized)
There isn't much to say about the top of the head section apart from the anodizing is excellent here too, and it has a high quality thick Aluminium bezel. We'll see more details on the bezel further on.
The Interior
Starting from the head section this time.
Removing the front bezel show it to be a thick, well machine piece of hardened Aluminium. It's difficult to see in this image but the threads here too are very strong and well cut.
Perhaps the O-ring could potentially be a little thicker but it does offer what I would call an adequate resistance when re-fitting the bezel.
Here is another shot of the bezel, this time the glass lens can be seen. The glass is hardened but isn't coated. The quality of the glass is excellent though and optically superb.
It's difficult to convey in these images, but the finish of the reflector is remarkable. It is also surprisingly weighty.
You could run this thing over with a car and still use it! (I'm not joking)
Each potential single reflector measures 27.5mm Diameter
The entire reflective surface measures 55.0mm Diameter
Total reflective depth is 26.0mm
The top of the reflector has a ridge where another O-ring sits. This O-ring is compressed by the glass lens when the front bezel is re-fitted.
The shot below is with and without the O-ring in place.
*one quick note* If you ever find yourself in a desert next to an Orange Tree... with this reflector you have an instant 'Juicer' !
The reflector in this light is held in place with a Posidrive screw on the back of the heatsink plate (Pictured below)
Some Aluminium swarf was found in here. I removed this to avoid any potential electrical shorts on the LED driver
Below is the reflector removed from the light, alonside the bezel, O-ring and glass lens. This also highlights what a good chunk of Aluminium the reflector is..
With the reflector removed we can see all four emitters stuck to the backing plate with thermal glue. They also utilize plastic isolating/spacer rings to prevent any electrical shorts.
When the reflector is screwed down from behind. It applies pressure to these plastic spacers, forcing the MCPCB's down on to the backing plate.
The four LED's are wire in 'Series'
Now.. I know what your thinking, and I thought exactly the same thing !
"How on earth is that thin heatsink plate going to dissipate all that heat from 4x emitters in such close proximity ?"
For peace of mind I had to be sure, so I did something that isn't possible on most lights.
Here I will refer to a previous image. This time highlighting how I ran the light.. completely removed from the main body.
I placed my thumb directly underneath one of the emitters and ran the light on high for Five Minutes (location highlighted in the image below)
This astounded me because during that 5 minute interval, my thumb was never in any real discomfort.
In fact, the body of the head became fairly hot while directly under the emitter was significantly cooler.
This test contradicted my initial fears and convinced me beyond any doubt, the heat is being comfortably transferred to the outside of the light.
The Driver and the Draw Current
This light utilizes a Buck/Boost driver (though I'm not so sure about the 'buck' since there are 4x LED's)
The benefit this type of driver provides is the ability to run the light in either a 'Two Cell' or a 'Three Cell' configuration.
The driver is held in place with a good quality retaining ring (much better than the press fit option seen in many lights)
I like stronger, wider than average spring. This allows much more rigidity to compensate for the extra mass and inertia through movement when using three cells.
This is the driver looking down from the top of the light.
The mode selection switch is wired into the driver and looks to be controlled via FET switching.
Here is the driver retaining ring almost undone prior to complete driver removal.
You can see that the retaining ring is thick enough to allow a good amount of pressure onto the driver's outer contact ring.
The next couple of images show the driver fully removed. Also shown is the driver's standoff board which has a brass outer ring for good electrical contact with the body of the light.
While the standoff board allows for good versatility when choosing replacement driver options. I can't help but consider the limitations due to the mode switching arrangment.
Tailcap Current Measurements
Here I will give actual tailcap readings and break it down for each LED (this is NOT taking into account driver efficiency and other losses)
3 cells
High: 1.49Amps x3 (Cells in series) = 4.47Amps ÷ 4 (LED's in series) = 1.11Amps Per LED (theoretically, before losses)
Med: 0.63Amps x3 (Cells in series) = 1.89Amps ÷ 4 (LED's in series) = 0.47Amps Per LED (theoretically, before losses)
Low: 0.12Amps x3 (Cells in series) = 0.36Amps ÷ 4 (LED's in series) = 0.09Amps Per LED (theoretically, before losses)
2 Cells
High: 2.49Amps x2 (Cells in series) = 4.98Amps ÷ 4 (LED's in series) = 1.24Amps Per LED (theoretically, before losses)
Med: 0.78Amps x2 (Cells in series) = 1.56Amps ÷ 4 (LED's in series) = 0.39Amps Per LED (theoretically, before losses)
Low: 0.09Amps x2 (Cells in series) = 0.18Amps ÷ 4 (LED's in series) = 0.04Amps Per LED (theoretically, before losses)
So as can be seen above, hugely under-driven emitters and that's before taking losses into account. The benefits though are longer runtimes and less heat management issues.
Something worth noting here is that (theoretically) Each LED draws more current in a 2 Cell configuration.
The driver in this light is noticeably more efficient in Buck mode vs Boost mode. This can be clearly seen in the 2 Cell vs 3 Cell comparison beamshots.
There is a 60mA current draw when in standby - So making sure to lockout the power with the tailcap switch when the light is not in use is a must really.
The driver in this light does utilize Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) on Medium and Low.
While I am particularly sensitive to PWM and I can notice it, the frequency is high enough not to become a distraction
The Control Interface
One of the nice features of this light is it's control interface.
The switch on the tailcap serves only as a lockout feature and once depressed enables the use of the small switch on the head of the light.
This makes this light much easier and more intuitive to use and carry.
Another nice feature is the hidden strobe. It makes a genuinely refreshing change to be able to toggle brightness settings, without being forced to toggle through strobe modes.
The interface is very simple and works as follows.
Depress tailcap switch.
Head switch: High - Med - Low - Off
Head switch: Hold for 2 seconds for Tactical Strobe - depress switch again to return to previous mode.
It really is that simple and it works like a charm.
The tailcap switch can be used on it's own but only in High and Strobe, so there is effectively only mode memory for those two settings.
Should the light be left in Med or Low when turned off at the tailcap. The light will remain off when the tailcap is depressed again (thus resetting the interface to it's original 'Standard' state)
Upon activation of the taicap switch, the light will not illuminate until the Head switch is depressed.
The light will always activate in High mode first from a Standard state.
There is a hidden Flashing Beacon mode somewhere which I did manage to find once by accident. Despite numerous attempts, it has yet to be found again.
The tailcap switch is reverse click only (no tactical momentary on feature)
Tailcap Switch Assembly
The assembly itself is pretty generic looking with the usual brass contact pin surrounded with a plastic isolating ring and a threaded retaining ring.
With the retaining ring removed and the switch disassembled, we can see below what lives inside.
The switch has it's own contact board which makes contact with the light's body via the threaded retaining ring (the same principle as used for the driver in the head)
There is a square looking plastic switch holder which doubles up as a rubber switch boot cover retainer.
It places pressure on the inside edge of the rubber boot once the switch contact board is pressed down with the retaining ring.
This is one good way to help ensure the rubber switch boot cover remains watertight in the event of some unforseen accident involving water.
Here are all of the component parts of the tailcap switch assembly, also showing the plastic switch holder/boot retainer
The tailcap switch is only rated to 1.5Amps and while this won't be any problem under normal use when using the mode selection switch on the head.
It will be passing full current if the light is left in High or Strobe prior to switching the tailcap on/off. Should driver upgrades be considered, this switch should be taken into account also.
Before drawing my final conclusions and offering the beamshots, here are a few comparison shots to help give an insight into the size and length of this light.
First off, here is the R43S in 'Shorty' mode (2 Cells) compared with the well known and loved Jacob A60
In 'Longy' mode (3 Cells) this time
Compared with another 3 Cell light. The Thrunite TN30
All three together
A head size comparison with the Jacob A60 and the Thrunite TN30
And for the final comparison shot.
Versus the TN30 full frontal shot
Initial Summary
As an initial summary I would like to add that I have torn this light apart so to speak, and despite it's few flaws it is still a great light without question.
The under driven emitters for some will be a big setback, but for me, and I honestly say this, The light performs surprisingly well enough for it not to be an issue.
Especially when you factor in the extended runtimes
I am hoping the forthcoming beamshot comparisons, where I directly compare this light with the TN30 will highlight what an exceptional perfomer it really is.
Clearly the TN30 will demolish the R43S but I think you will be surprised.
The quality of the reflector most certainly helps a great deal. In fact, as you may well notice in the image above. The reflector finish quality is actually superior to TN30.
When I first received the light I wasn't so struck on it , but the more I use it the more I like it.
The mode switching near the head of the light makes a whole world of difference too, it's just incredibly pleasant and intuitive. It makes this light a definite 'Hassle Free' carry.
The overall build quality and machining is exceptional. The light has a strong and sturdy, solid feel about it with a good balance and a good weight.
There were a few minor quality control issues but nothing that couldn't be easily resolved in a minute or two.
The biggest flaw on this light externally are the marks on the tailcap and even those are minor. They look far worse in the images than they do in person.
Pros
Great perfomance overall (despite the underdriven emitters)
Excellent design and contruction
Outstanding user interface (it will make you allergic to tail clickies once and for all)
Superb quality reflector
Flexible form factor
Good looks
Excellent thermal heat transfer
Good mode spacing of power levels
Cons
Underdriven emitters
Some QC issues
PWM on Med & Low
No AR coating on glass lens
Lack of knurling near the bottom of the light
If you want a well built multi emitter light that performs remarkably well out of the box without stressing your 18650's to their limit, this light is definitely for you.
I award this light 4.5 out of 5
Beamshots to follow soon.
Thanks for reading guys and please feel free to ask any questions you may have, or highlight anything I may have forgotten to mention.
Spas out (for now)
