I considered fujik nice and useful thing but today it is my worst enemy :Sp
This is after about 30 minutes of picking gunk with tweezers…
Question: why are the 2 pins indicated by arrow, connected on this driver and not connected on driver from bdiddle’s JM26?
Edit: never mind this, it appears it is a N-channel mosfet so all pins at that side are connected together…
P.S. The MCU is PIC 12F683.
Alcohol helped a little getting that stuff off. Yeah, I don't like the stuff.
EDIT: Nice pic. I wish I could take macros like that.
So, I need to replace resistors R100 and R50 which are apparently 0,0833 ohms with smaller resistor like R04 to R01 if something like that exists (R04 - R01).
Basically I need to lower the resistance! I wouldn’t like to go with 000 because I don’t know what can happen if/when using KK batteries (which I don’t have currently)!
What about those resistors from other side of the driver, 103, 163 and 911?
Anyone know what for are they?
Pity they used PIC as MCU, Attiny would be much more desirable solution 
Wow, nice clean up and pictures. You can safely replace the 2 sense resistors (R500 and R100) with thick copper wire or braid. Both bdiddle and I have with no adverse effects. I have thrown every IMR both 18650's and 26650's at it with no problem. I get around 3.65 amps with copper braid. It's a damn respectable light at that level, but I want more.
I'm guessing the 103 (10000ohm) resistor does something different from the other 2 resisters because the other two are so different (390 ohm and 910 ohm). I'm hoping they are part of the equation to up current.
Just short the bank. I already tested with NCR18650PD’s, KK ICR’s, and Powerizer 26650’s. The KK ICR’s don’t cause any problem. If you leave the emitter stock it will likely be on the hot side. The Powerizer 26650’s push more juice than the KK’s, so with those I’d say use copper.
So, I added 000 jumper across existing R100 and R50 (I did not remove them, not as easy as it looks) connected battery holder with 2 x 18650 in parallel and measured 2.10A at LED (for testing I am using XM-L U3-1B I got today) :quest:
What am I doing wrong? Should I remove R100 & R50 completely? They should not affect the results since I put a jumper across them!
I also soldered thick (20AWG) wires for emitter…
/puzzled
I don't think you're doing anything wrong. I've read that those 000 resisters still have some resistance. You may want to try shorting a wire across the top of them.
The trick to removing resistors is to have enough solder on your iron to contact both ends at the same time. They should lift off with your iron.
I see 2 different "L+" pads in your pictures. Each looks connected to an end of the inductor. Does anyone know one side will have more resistance than the other?
The inductor should be there just to smooth flow, I don’t know how much resistance it brings into the circuit.
Care to bypass it?
No, probably would make the PWM unbearable in the low modes with that PIC MCU.
Yeah I assumed so. I am currently messing with my M1 MT-G2, but maybe sometime this weekend I’ll get a chance to screw around with that driver board on the JM26.
I am not an EE, so my progress is slow 
Same here. I'm stuck. I may try to just slightly change the other resister bank. It must be pretty sensitive given the high values.
I've been meaning to check out your MT-G2 thread. I glanced and it sounded fun. If you measure throw in that light, please be sure to post to the MT-G2 throw thread.
So, I cleaned up resistors
and I soldered braided wire (the stuff used for desoldering = goot wick) instead, and….
the best that I get is 2.10A and not a drop more |(
I knew that this new driver would be a problem as soon as I heard it’s not 7135 based!!!
I am out of ideas :weary:
Edit: just for sake of testing I connected ordinary Nanjg 105C (not Qlite) and using same batteries, same measuring setup I got 2.55A @ LED
Sorry to hear that dude. I just went and compared my the resisters in the other resister bank to your pictures and they are in the same order. One thing that may be causing resistance. The negative wire solder looks like it may not have fused well with its solder pad. I'm hoping that's the problem because I don't see any other potential issues.
I also used 2.5mm solder braid on the tail cap/body spring. I think it helped.
Interesting,
I give up on this driver, soldered thicker positive wire (previously I replaced only negative wire just for testing), add a big solder blob on top of the braided wire (resistor mod) and assembled everything back, topped of unprotected trustfire 2400mAh battery to 4.19V (cheap and imprecise charger) and….
measured 3.07A in high mode!!! How did that happen!
Two things changed between my testing setup and the flashlight, for testing I used XM-L U3, inside the flashlight is XML2 U2! and for testing I soldered 20AWG wires to emitter (U3) and then connected negative lead directly to driver but I left original positive lead and soldered it to thicker emitter lead (positive wire was longer than negative)…
You should try a low internal resistance battery. Mine is much brighter on KK ICR’s than Sanyo 2600 batteries. I am fairly certain it is direct drive but a high resistance driver.
I need to get some KKongs…
in the 26650 battery thread there is a link to a powerizer battery that is even better, but its in the US………so I don’t think they can ship to you.
KingKong batteries are better than the Soshine 26650?..i use the second……