Which Sipik clone has the strobe? or half strobe?
Btw.. I seen tomtop one on ebay for 2.99 is that the same as the $7 one? thx
Thanks
Links?
@ alex21: You really need to read through some of the many threads about these Sipik clones. You will see that none of them are 'the same' as any of the others, at least, not in any reliable, repeatable way.
Sorry man I can't seem to find it, maybe I was mistaken..
Yep sorry Lens, have some reading to do..
Anyone found replacement drivers that fit the Sipik clones?
(I wonder if the scarcity of drivers is why the 3-mode are just mythical)
Alex, I didn't mean it in a critical way. If you really like these lights and you're serious about learning the pitfalls, here are a few threads to start you off. If you read through them you'll see what I was getting at, and why so many of us are pi$$ed off with the whole Sipik saga.. :\
Sipik SK68 Clone - 3-mode. First impressions. (Picture heavy) , sipik sk68 clone for $6.16... :-) , Sipik(?) 1-AA zoom for $6.77 , Sipik SK68 in 3 modes and colors for 9.50 USD
EDIT @ hank: They're not exactly mythical, many of us own them (got three myself). Just that there's no guarantee, or even any real likelihood, that you'll get the same model (or quality) twice running from the same seller/s
I purchased a 3 pack of these a month or so ago from Meritline and they are quite sweet for the money. But I have noticed that it is hard to activate the switch with my thumb due to how far down it is. Not a big issue, and may not be noticed by every user, but I think about it every time I use it.
Has anyone described the drivers that have been found used in the Sipiks, anywhere?
I stuck a “standard” 3 mode 15-16 MM driver in my sipik after the original one broke, (I dropped it one or two (hundred) too many times and the boost coil broke off.) It doesn’t sit in the pill like the original but the driver is pinched between the pill and the body. It was finicky until I stuck a dob of solder on the negative ring so it made good contact with the body. I’ll get pictures later.
thank you!
I’ve got one from Manafont (since November 2011), and the LED started burning, when zoomed into throw mode, it was noticeable that some parts of the LED were dead (near the wire). So I opened it and the led didn’t have any thermal paste, but ALSO it doesn’t even touch the pill in the base of the star!
Current all this time was around 1.6Amps with LiIon, and a very very bad contact between star and pill!
Now I modded it with a spare XP-G that I had, with FUJIK thermal paste, stock driver and turnigy cables. It improved a lot.
I got 5 of these . The 2 from TOMTOP with no name brank on is have crappy quality . Very cheap switch/ tail cap thread bad .
The 3 silver ones from another seller have great quality ( ultraok brand)
The output on all 5 if mine are same/ similar
Can someone tell me how i dissasemble the tailcap? I didn’t find that anywhere… Is the clicky (and spring) just press fitted and I just have to push on it really hard? The Tailcap in question had its rubber clicky-booth came loose… (And I am thinking about baking it as well.)
One of the cons of this light is that it is not regulated. You might want to add this 
But great stuff for the price.
It is press-fit. Just remove the tailcap and push the switch inward hard, you should be able to feel it loosen/move. Continue pressing until the inner switch is removed.
No, the single mode is not regulated, but the Ultrafire 3-mode is (as in from verosale). Very well regulated while at it.
At high using 14500, the 3-mode can last around 1.5hrs compared to 40minutes using the single mode.
Light is only slightly less bright, hard to differentiate even side by side.
EDIT: Verosale has dropped to AVOID status, many ordered and not receive their items, so please ignore any recommendations to buy from there.
I know that probably my question has been asked and answered somewhere at BLF already, but is there a better 1xAA thrower out there than SK68 and its various incarnations?
I cannot find this.