Thanks for stopping by, chitownburgerboy!
Overpowered turbo modes are useful. As the name suggests it’s not a “cruise” mode. Besides in most/all right angle lights you can set a lower tubo mode (Zebralight, Armytek, Skilhunt).
Agressive stepdowns are the problem.
The Armytek Wizard V3 stabilized much higher than the V4.
The V4 stabilizes at ~500lm with a fast stepdown and does not actively raise the brightness once cooled 
I guess because people on the internet on BLF an Reddit where crying about how hot the V3 would get… whilst cave explorers, urban explorers and the Polish mountain rescue services were enjoying and benefiting the high sustained output which is now gone in the V4.
Thanks for the review.
I started to like the appearance of Skilhunt H300.
I was a user of H03 and current user of H04, this H300 is looking better.
T1-T2 and H1 do stepdowns. For example H04 stepdowns from T1 to T2 only. Whats because both hosts have same thermal mass. 50gr. host can sustain about 3-4W power output only. But yes at freezing weather different story.
What do you think if this headlamp use 21700 battery? Would it be a better choice?
I think lights with 21700 batteries make poor headlamps for most people because they are too heavy.
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18650 headlamps can be already too heavy to be comfortable (eg. Armytek Wizard) so 21700 headlamps are guaranteed too heavy.
The H03/H04 design is mature and it is one of the smallest/lightest 18650 right angle headlamps on the market 
And modable too!
Sadly you artificially inflated the price substantially in the last years.
Please consider making a H04 with the 50.3(HI led) and the H300 driver with improved stabilization (higher temperature ceiling).
It’s nice to see you seem to listen to the community on BLF.
Personally I’d add a Zebralight style battery indicator. " * This light uses the main LED (flashing 1 to 4 times) to indicate the estimated remaining capacity of the battery. To start the battery indicator, (from Off) short-click 4 times without pause".
A battery indicator in the switch is pretty useless in a headlamp which is on your head/helmet 
Honestly I don’t see the need to change much at the moment. If you put the h300 driver in the h04, why even sell the h300 at all? Skilhunt has been really good about getting the latest LED options out in their lights and that’s great! You could maybe offer a reflector, xhp50.3hi version of the h300 for a long throw headlamp? Though generally headlamps are used up close so that would be a niche product.
Keep up the good work!
They’re way ahead of you. They already offer a reflector version (H300R) and it’s available with an XHP50.3-HI.
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Its so simple to build (optimized, perfect ,logical and so on) … flashlight -headlamp , but who will buy all the rest? 
Skilhunt you want stay trash tech or go up ?
The market is there for a quality 21700 headlamp, even if the concept seems like it is too large. There are very few options. A 21700 version with 70.3 high cri would be a great seller… obviously try to keep it light weight.
For larger right angle lights, wearing it on a vest or attached to a backpack strap make illuminating easy while taking the weight off of the head. That’s why I like to leave the pocket clip attached for headlamps.
That’s totally true, I remember running around with a huge right angle light clipped to my backpack strap that ran off C batteries, there’s definitely a market for right angle lights with a larger battery.
There is a market for everything even for Lidl sneakers…
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Same here, I prefer attach the larger headlamp into my sternum strap for my convenience.
But with this detachable clip style, I must keep checking if the light is still attached there.
Is there a coupon code for the H300?
Also, I would be interested in a 21700 right-angle light. I don’t always wear it on my head.
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Agreed. It can’t be seen while wearing it.
I’ve found two battery indicator styles which work on a headlamp:
- Battery check mode which blinks out the battery charge using the main LEDs
- Show the charge level as a color on some relatively bright colored aux LEDs for a few seconds after turning the main LEDs off. The user can put their hand in front of it and look up to see the charge level very quickly.
Both work, but I prefer the 2nd style because it’s faster and I don’t have to manually go to a battery check mode and count the blinks… instead, just glance at it after turning the light off.
I use it to indicate low batt before level steeping down, because some muggles can complain why it steps down
if (actual_level == 3) {AUX_confirm(3); set_level(2);}
Also i use 3 blinks to indicate batt low if trying to switch on from off or when if inserting empty batt at start up