[Review] Skilhunt MiX-7 Gen 2: Nichia 519A, red, green, blue and UV – now with color mixing

End of last year, I reviewed the first version of the MiX-7 and was very excited about its features. Now there is the second generation of the MiX-7 with some changes and improvements.

The MiX-7 finally lives up to its name: the three color LEDs red, green and blue can now be mixed together. The UI was slightly adapted for the new functions and finally a longer version for 18650 batteries is available.

You can find the German version of this review on my website: SammysHP Blog › Skilhunt MiX-7 Gen 2 Plus

The flashlight was provided by the manufacturer for this review. Thank you very much!

Skilhunt vs. ESKTE

Skilhunt is in the process of being rebranded to ESKTE, at least they list some flashlight models under both names. New packaging, same content.

According to the manufacturer, ESKTE is the stylized form of “SKT” and this name was also used briefly several years ago. Now try again in a slightly modified form. But whether it’s Skilhunt or ESKTE – this review will be about the product and not the name.

Variants

When the first MiX-7 was released, a common request was for a longer battery tube so that 18650 batteries could be used. Skilhunt listened and now the MiX-7 is available in two lengths:

  • MiX-7 Gen 2: Short 18350 tube, design identical with the first generation.
  • MiX-7 Gen 2 Plus: Long 18650 tube, length increased by 30 mm.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to order the flashlight with an additional battery tube. One of the reasons for this is probably that the driver in the head is held in position by the battery tube, which is why the head and tube are glued together.

You can also choose between two variants for the main LED (Cree XP-G4 and Nichia 519A) and four body colors (black, green, orange and blue).

Overview of hardware

The MiX-7 is supplied in colorful retail packaging. The accessories are in an extra box inside.

  • Skilhunt “BL-135” 18650 Li-ion battery with 3500 mAh (protected, button-top, 3.60 V at arrival)
  • Lanyard
  • Separate dual-way clip
  • 2x replacement o-ring
  • Rubber disc to replace the magnet
  • ZWB2 filter
  • “MC-20” magnetic charger
  • Manual (EN, CN, DE, ES, FR, IT, NL, RU, SV)

Even though I am mainly presenting the long “Plus” version of the MiX-7 in this review, I would like to make a comparison with the shorter 18350 version at this point. Both flashlights are practically identical and differ only in the length of the battery tube.

  18350 18650
Length: 79.0 mm 109.0 mm
Diameter (head): 32.5 m 32.5 mmm
Diameter (battery tube): 22.2 m 22.2 mmm
Diameter (tailcap): 23.5 m 23.5 mmm
Weight (without battery): 64.1 g 67.3 g
Weight (battery): 24.9 g 49.4 g
Weight (total): 89.0 g 116.7 g

In my case, it is still the first generation MiX-7, but according to the data sheet, the difference in weight between the two generations is minimal. It’s always amazing how light aluminum is. Without the battery, the short and long versions are almost the same weight, the only big difference is the battery. For 30% more mass, you get three times the battery capacity.

Compared to other flashlights, the MiX-7 performs quite well: despite seven LEDs, it is only slightly larger than other 18650 flashlights and even smaller than flashlights with a 21700 battery. If you want a colorful LED variety like the MiX-7, there is hardly anything better at the moment in my opinion.


Wurkkos WK40 | Wurkkos TS26S | Skilhunt MiX-7 Gen 2 Plus | Skilhunt EC200 | Skilhunt MiX-7

The design has not changed compared to the first generation. This was not necessary, as the MiX-7 already had a very attractive appearance (for my taste).

Instead of small reflectors, the second generation now uses a TIR optic. It is held in place by a stainless steel bezel with small cutouts so that you can see whether the flashlight is switched on even when upside down. Depending on the body color, the bezel is either black or blue.

The switch is attached with a small, screwed-on bezel, which has the same accent color. Well, you can’t really call it an accent color with the blue version.

The scale-like design of the battery tube has also been retained. It looks unusual at first glance, but it feels very comfortable and provides a secure grip even when the flashlight is wet. I am pleased that flashlight manufacturers try to find alternatives to the scratchy, sharp diamond knurling used in the past.

There is an attachment hole for a lanyard on the tailcap. Unfortunately the edges around the hole are still very sharp and the serrations make them as efficient as a serrated knife. Without a small key ring, the lanyard is quickly worn through.

As with its predecessor, there is a magnet in the tailcap, which allows the flashlight to be hung on magnetic surfaces. With the long 18650 version, “hung” is to be taken literally, as the holding force isn’t quite strong enough for reliable horizontal attachment. The flashlight holds, but not very reliably.

On a flat surface, the MiX-7 rolls away quickly as it is completely round on the contact surfaces. The two-way clip can prevent the flashlight from rolling away. In the Plus version, it can be attached to both the front and rear of the battery tube.

Opposite the button is the magnetic charging contact, which can be used to charge the battery directly in the flashlight. The special charging adapter supplied by Skilhunt is required for this. With the large Plus version you get the “MC-20” (which presumably stands for “Magnetic Charger 2.0 A”), the smaller version comes with the “MC-10” with 1 A charging current.

A USB port is susceptible to water and dirt. It is therefore usually protected by a silicone cover, which is not only inconvenient to use, but can also easily be opened accidentally. Although there are also sealed USB ports, they are difficult to clean.

With a magnetic charging port, there is no need for this cover and dirt can usually simply be wiped off. It is only susceptible to metal shavings. Earlier versions of the Skilhunt charging connector were susceptible to leakage currents and only disconnected the contacts in the event of a short circuit (possibly with a few sparks). Skilhunt has now improved this: only 0.01 V is present at the contacts. (Previously I liked to measure the battery voltage via the charging contact, but of course this is no longer possible.)

Of course, you always need the special charging adapter. On the other hand, it is also compatible with the other flashlights from Skilhunt and the convenience gain is great: you only need to bring it close to the contacts, where it automatically snaps into the correct position. If you get caught on the cable, it releases automatically and does not pull the flashlight off the table.

Charging is quite unspectacular. A red LED in the adapter indicates that charging is in progress and switches to blue when completed. The flashlight can be used normally during this time. Charging only starts when the battery voltage is below around 4.0 V. This check can be tricked by briefly switching the flashlight on at a high level after connecting the charging adapter.

The charging current is reduced quite early, so that the charging process takes a long time. This may be due to a voltage drop caused by the protection of the charging contacts, which means that the battery reaches its target voltage much earlier from the charging adapter’s point of view.

The spring in the tailcap can be unhooked with a pointy object to remove the magnet behind it. The resulting gap is filled with a silicone disc that came with the light.

Both unprotected flat-top batteries and protected button-top batteries (such as the included BL-135) work in the MiX-7.

The head and battery tube are glued together. However, the parts can be separated with a little force. This is a precautionary measure taken by the manufacturer, as the driver is only held in position by the battery tube. A spring washer ensures reliable contact.

By carefully loosening the battery tube, you have the freedom to switch between short and long battery tubes or to combine different colors. Provided you own several MiX-7, as the parts cannot be ordered individually.

According to the specification, the MiX-7 is IPX8 waterproof and should withstand drops from up to one meter. Apart from the sharp edge around the hole in the tailcap, the build quality is excellent.

User interface

The MiX-7 is operated via a button on the head of the flashlight. It has a matt, solid plastic surface and is slightly recessed in the bluish bezel. When you press it, you hear and feel a precise click, regardless of where or from what angle you press it.

The button is somewhat difficult to find by feel as all sides of the head are slightly flattened. It is easy to confuse it with the charging port, which has a similar shape and sits exactly opposite. If you have the clip attached, you can use it to help you find the button.

Thanks to new functions such as color mixing, more brightness levels and additional blinking modes, it was necessary to extend the UI. The white modes are completely identical: one group each for low, medium and high brightness and one for the blinking modes. There are several levels in each of these groups, which you can switch between with a long or double click and which are saved for the respective group.

State Action Function
Off 1C Turn on (last used in H1/M1/M2)
Off 2C Turn on (last used in T1/T2)
Off 3C Turn on (last used in S1/S2/S3/S4)
Off 4C Lockout
Off 1H (0.5 s) Turn on (last used in L1/L2)
Off 1H (1 s) Turn on (in R4/G4/B4 with last color)
Off 1H (2 s) Turn on (last used in UV1/UV2/UV3)
Off 2H Turn on (last used in R/G/B/Mix)
L1/L2 1C Turn off
L1/L2 1H Switch between L1/L2
L1/L2 2H Switch to last used in H1/M1/M2
L1/L2 3H Switch to corresponding level in R/G/B/Mix
H1/M1/M2 1C Turn off
H1/M1/M2 2C Switch to last used in T1/T2
H1/M1/M2 3C Switch to last used in S1/S2/S3/S4
H1/M1/M2 1H Increase brightness (M2 → M1 → H1)
H1/M1/M2 2H Switch to last used in L1/L2
H1/M1/M2 3H Switch to corresponding level in R/G/B/Mix
T1/T2 1C Turn off
T1/T2 2C Switch to last used in H1/M1/M2
T1/T2 3C Switch to last used in S1/S2/S3/S4
T1/T2 1H Switch between T1/T2
T1/T2 3H Switch to R1/G1/B1/Mix with last color
S1/S2/S3/S4 1C Turn off
S1/S2/S3/S4 2C Switch between S1 → S2 → S3 → S4
S1/S2/S3/S4 3C Switch to last used in T1/T2/H1/M1/M2
S1/S2/S3/S4 3H Switch to CS1/CS2/CS3/CS4
R/G/B 1C Turn off
R/G/B 2C Switch to mixed color
R/G/B 3C Switch to last used in CS1/CS2/CS3/CS4
R/G/B 1H Increase brightness in four steps
R/G/B 2H Switch to next color (R → G → B)
R/G/B 3H Switch to corresponding level in white
Mix 1C Turn off
Mix 2C Switch to last used in R/G/B
Mix 3C Switch to last used in CS1/CS2/CS3/CS4
Mix 1H Change color mix smoothly
Mix 2H Change color mix in 9 steps
Mix 3H Switch to corresponding level in white
UV1/UV2/UV3 1C Turn off
UV1/UV2/UV3 1H Increase brightness (UV3 → UV2 → UV1)
Lockout 2C Turn button indicator on/off
Lockout 4C Unlock and turn on in L2
Lockout 1H Momentary L1

Compared to the first generation, the color control has been completely changed. Previously you could select two brightness levels for each of the three colors and UV, which then replaced L1/L2. So you had to decide: colored light or the lowest brightness levels in white.

Now you can access the colors either by holding the button from Off (lowest brightness level) or 2H from Off (last used brightness level). You can also use 3H to switch between white and the colors, which tries to maintain the current brightness level. There are now four instead of two levels for colored light – but only for the individual colors. As soon as you mix the colors together, only one fixed brightness level remains.

The UV light is somewhat more complicated to access. You have to press and hold the button for at least two seconds when the flashlight is switched off, while it transitions over white and colored light. At the same time, the saved brightness for the colored light is reset to the lowest level. Three brightness levels are then available for UV.

There are now four blinking modes each for white and color, with the two groups sharing the same program memory location. If you have used the red SOS mode, SOS is also selected for the white light. If you switch to the tactical strobe, this corresponds to the police strobe in color mode.

The blinking modes for the colored LEDs are as follows:

  • CS1: Auto color fading
  • CS2: Police strobe
  • CS3: Red SOS
  • CS4: Red beacon (1 Hz)

The situation is similar for the white LEDs:

  • S1: Breathing
  • S2: Tactical strobe (alternating between 14 and 6 Hz)
  • S3: White SOS
  • S4: White beacon (1 Hz)

In the following video you can see the individual blinking modes in action. At the bottom right I have noted which button sequence was pressed.

When locked, the button blinks every two seconds. This makes it easier to find the flashlight in the dark. The indicator light can be switched off and on with a double-click, but is reactivated each time the flashlight is locked.

After turning on the flashlight, an indicator LED in the switch shows the approximate state of charge of the battery for five seconds. On very low voltage, the indicator will blink in red as long as the light is turned on.

Color State of charge
Blue 80% – 100%
Blue blinking 50% – 80%
Red 20% – 50%
Red blinking < 20%

Despite the many LEDs, the MiX-7 is a really compact EDC light. The head may be a little bulky in a tight pocket, but there should be no more problems in a jacket. The extra length makes the Plus version a little easier to hold. On the other hand, the small version has a better wow factor because you don’t expect the power and functions from such a tiny flashlight.

Illumination

As the name “MiX-7” suggests, the flashlight contains seven LEDs of different colors: three white LEDs, three colored LEDs and one UV LED:

  • Cree XP-G4 (cool white, 6500 K) or Nichia 519A (neutral white, 5000 K, high CRI)
  • Cree XP-E2 red (625 nm)
  • Cree XP-E2 green (525 nm)
  • Cree XP-E2 blue (455 nm)
  • Seoul Z5 UV (365 nm)

With the white LEDs, you have the choice between cool white and neutral white. I opted for the neutral white version as it has a significantly better color rendering (but is a little darker).

The LEDs are no longer used in a reflector as in the first generation, but behind a matt TIR optic (except for the UV LED, as PMMA plastic blocks UV light in most cases). This made the beam even more floody. Here is a direct comparison of the first and second generation:

For my taste the first generation was almost too floody for outdoor use, the second generation is even more floody and you will notice the reduced throw. On the other hand, for close-up use the floody beam is beneficial.

You may have already noticed it in the photos: The first generation used a 4500 K Nichia LED, while the second generation now uses 5000 K. Honestly, I prefered the warmer version.

The colored LEDs are now nicely soft and diffuse, which in my opinion is much more pleasant and makes sense in terms of mixing the individual color LEDs. The minimum brightness of the colors has been reduced, which is especially useful for red. The two levels of the first generation are between levels 1 and 2 and at 3 of the second generation.

But even with the matt TIR optic, mixed colors are not always perfect. The distance between the LEDs creates a kind of color shadow with close objects.

UV light is an exciting topic, as we cannot see it directly by eye, but only through the fluorescence of illuminated objects. It is divided into three categories, of which only UV-A is relevant for flashlights. Inexpensive UV flashlights in particular use LEDs with a fairly long wavelength (around 400 nm) and a high amount of visible light. As a result, the effect of fluorescence is partially hidden by the visible light.

Better UV flashlights use LEDs with a wavelength of 365 nm, such as the MiX-7. Many minerals, security features on money and ID cards or “organic residues” in the bathroom or on the carpet fluoresce in this range. These LEDs also have a small amount of visible light, which can be eliminated with a ZWB2 filter (while slightly reducing the overall output). Such a filter is included with the flashlight, but must be installed yourself (Skilhunt made a video demonstrating the process).


Without and with ZWB2 filter

In practice, I use the UV light to check the even application of certain lubricants with a UV indicator or to detect dirt (including dust). And finally, it often opens up a completely different perspective on the surroundings. Here’s an example how it might look like when using UV light.

White light | UV light

Driver and runtime

There are seven brightness levels for white light and four for colored light. There are also three levels for UV and one for mixed colors. Due to the large number of modes, I will simply copy the table from the manual:

I could confirm most of the official runtime numbers (for higher levels) with my measurements. Here you can also see the good regulation of the driver. After a timed stepdown for the Turbo levels, the output stayed mostly flat. The manual doesn’t mention any kind of temperature regulation, but tells you to not use turbo repeatedly in high ambient temperatures. In my measurement, the head of the flashlight reached a temperature of 49 °C in T1. After the stepdown, the temperature stabilized at around 33 °C.

The colored channels are also kept at an almost constant brightness by the constant current driver (after initially ramping down at the highest level). Only the UV LED different: Due to the high forward voltage, the driver is not able to keep the brightness constant over the entire runtime. (The small steps are due to the low resolution of my sensor at low brightness).

I measured the current in all levels with a clamp meter and a fully charged battery directly after switching on.

Level Current
T1 5.55 A
T2 1.96 A
H1 0.90 A
M1 0.30 A
M2 0.11 A
L1 0.03 A
L2 < 0.01 A
Off 62 µA
Level Red Green Blue UV
1 1.60 A 1.80 A 1.90 A 0.47 A
2 0.18 A 0.22 A 0.25 A 0.11 A
3 0.08 A 0.09 A 0.11 A 0.04 A
4 0.04 A 0.04 A 0.05 A –––

Testing with the oscilloscope revealed that the brightness of all white levels and the three individual colors is controlled completely without PWM. Only the mixed colors are regulated with PWM at a fast 32 kHz.

If the battery voltage falls below 3.00 V, the status LED in the button flashes continuously in red during operation. At a voltage of 2.80 V, the flashlight switches off to protect the battery from deep discharge.

Conclusion

The Skilhunt MiX-7 Gen 2 is a successful update of the little multi-color flashlight. Finally it delivers what its name suggests and you have the option of mixing the colored LEDs with each other. With the long Plus version you can now use 18650 batteries for a longer runtime.

The UI is still not perfect, but it is an improvement on its predecessor. For example, the UV light is a little hidden to activate. On the other hand, it is not an easy task to design a UI for so many functions with just one button. It would be nice to be able to adjust the brightness of the mixed colors.

Got curious? Here you can find the Skilhunt MiX-7 Gen 2 and the Skilhunt MiX-7 Plus on the manufacturer’s website.

8 Thanks

You may have already noticed it in the photos: The first generation used a 4500 K Nichia LED, while the second generation now uses 5000 K. Honestly, I prefered the warmer version.

My hopoocolor read it as 4700K. Still very close to my other 4500Ks. I am still hoping skilhunt will offer something like 3000K / 4500K / 5700K split as options in their lights … I prefer even cooler (5700K) … which in real life, my 5700K 519As often measure like 5200K-5300K after optics.

The switch is my favorite! One of the most tactile, easy to press switches I have in my collection. I hope skilhunt will start using that in other models like the EC200 etc. It’s so much better than the switch in my new fireflylites like the Stellar X4 which are hard to press and flaky AF comparatively.

OTOH, the skilhunt designers seem to have gone out of their way to make the switch and charging pad feel identical. Indeed, they use the same exact retaining ring. I can not find it in the dark, and have to resort to “squeeze the whole light, see what happens”.

My main nit is with the UI, there are a lot of inconsistencies internally, and with other models plus missed opportunities. I actually had much more fun with UV than I thought (scorpions) so I decided, maybe EC200S-UV would be useful … but that UI is totally different than the MiX-7 or the EC200S-Red!

One thing, I wish the red channel had a lower level. If you are one of those stargazers, using red for red things, R4 is way too bright.

Overall a fun light, even though I try to use it for practical purposes. Hopefully EC300 gets update.

1 Thank