Yup, that must be the biggest reason of Sofirn to omit integrated charger on SP10 Pro.
From what I read, combining Li-ion and NiMH charging is often problematic.
Hex file available for SC21 Pro, SP10 Pro and TS10:
Provides Nitecore D10 style ramping, that alternates up and down using 1H, no need to use 2H to ramp down.
Major thanks to quahog for the Hex files:
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A couple more pics to give you an idea of the size.
Thank you so much for the pictures, they really help me.
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Thanks again for the pics. Very nice comparisons of sizes. I have TS10 and SC21 Pro. And waiting for shipment of SP10 Pro.
Thanks jon_slider, I’ve downloaded those hex files. And some other hex files that I’ve found through some other threads.
I have dupont wires and pogo pins leftover from my old Arduino projects. I have installed ZFlasher AVR on my Android phone. Now I need to source a USB to Serial TTL adapter locally.
I’ve found so many good informations in this thread : https://budgetlightforum.com/t/sofirn-sc21-mini
I’m really motivated to do the reflash on my SC21 Pro (Andúril 1). I have TS10 with Andúril 2.0 and really love the improvements over Andúril 1.
I use my SC21 Pro more than my TS10 or SP10 Pro.
I just went on a trip and took the SC21 Pro because of the combination of features:
-
built in charging, no need to travel w a separate charger
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tailmagnet adds placement options
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lighted button, which I use to be able to see where the light is on the nightstand, and to help me locate the button in the dark.
I prefer the tailswich of the TS10, it has red aux for nightstand use, but it lacks the magnet and charger.
I dont use the SP10 Pro, because I absolutely hate not being able to find the switch button in the dark. Plus it is bigger than the other two, and I dont use AA.
Highly recommended reflash.
Also fwiw, SC21 Pro now ship w Anduril 2, and they are on sale
I’m on the precipice…
The add/description states Anduril v.1 (unless I’m not looking at it correctly). Not that I’d mind v1, but curious if it’s just the boilerplate description from the original posting and the actual shipped product would be A- v2 (?). Also wondering what your thoughts would be about selecting 4000K version over 5000K (2700K is way too warm for my taste).
In January of this year the SC21 Pro I purchased from Sofirns webpage came with Anduril 2, even though the page stated Anduril 1.
What color host was it?
I dont buy the Black ones, but if you do, I would expect Anduril 1.
fwiw, the Red SC21 I ordered in February, arrived w Anduril 2, and Ive been hearing multiple others report the same about their SC21 buys… except the Black ones.
so… if you want Anduril 2, dont buy Black, and then you dont get to pick CCT, the other colors only offer the 5000K
I have a green and a red with Anduril 2. Jan and then Feb
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I bought my SC21 Pro in the end of March (local OL store, not AliExpress nor sofirnlight.com) , it’s Andúril 1. It’s red, maybe it’s an old stock hence Andúril 1.
Sofirn SC21Pro, red, 5000K (4000K wasn’t available) , Andúril 1.
My TS10 and HS10 are 4000K, of course I prefer 4000K. All of my Convoys are 4000K/4500K except one with SST40 5000K.
Warm CT FTW! 
Thanks for the clarification.
Was there an issue with them, or just a personal preference?
thanks for the info
I reflash to Anduril 2…
change the LED to Warm 
and add a pebbled Tir lens
https://i.imgur.com/AlJp4yD.jpg
photo album here
yes
That’s also a very tempting mod, maybe I’ll tackle that next after reflash Andúril 2.0 
I’m more confident doing reflash than changing LED.
that is reasonable… LED swaps require more tools and supplies.
here is a pictorial of an SP10 Pro LED swap, showing the tools and supplies I used… the SC21 Pro is the same.
What’s the size of SC21 Pro’s MCPCB? I guess it’s 16mm?
I don’t have the skills and equipments to do LED reflow, but changing MCPCB+LED assembly seems doable (desolder and resolder two LED wires, applying thermal paste…).
Today I opened my SC21 Pro bezel (mine is red BTW), it’s not glued. It’s tight, so much tighter than its battery tube, but can be opened without special tool.
If only we’re in the same country I’ll be happily buying MCPCB+Nichia 519a 4500K from you, and flashing tool from gchart, my mod project will be much much easier
I really really like SC21 Pro and want it to be optimal to my need (taste) i.e with Andúril 2.0 and nice warm LED.
Congratulations! 
I think you can learn. It can be done with a candle, or a lighter
if you buy a preflowed LED on 16mm board it might fit. I have not tried.
Suggest you go ahead and buy the preflow on 16mm, then if you encounter any thickness, diameter, or cutout issues, move the LED to the stock mcpcb.
Make sure you get the polarity right. You can sometimes use the preflowed LED as a reference (if you can see the traces) to know which side of the LED is + and -
Here is what the solder pads under a 3535 LED look like, right side of photo:
https://i.imgur.com/onKTBij.jpg
on the left photo you see a yellow dot to show where the triangle mark is on the 519a LED (it is hard to see)…
here is a photo that shows the actual triangle mark on the 519a: unfortunately they dont offer a 3000K, but you could dedome the 3500K to get a really nice warm ~2700K (the hotspot will be smaller)
That’s a very good idea!
I didn’t know that Advanced Knife Bro doing anything flashlight-related. I thought he only does knife stuff
. I watch a lot of his knife videos.
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