Well I had this Novatac clip for my Surefire 6p before proper clips were available for the 6p.
I decided to try it on the L2T and yippee it fits really nicely and the tail cap squeezes the clip down to it won't rotate and won't scratch the body like it did to the 6p. It slips in and out of pocket smoothly seems like a nice minimalist clip on the L2T.
Tomorrow I will make a proper light box, too many shadows etc.
kaknut , is that clip available anywhere ?
Not sure, I checked lighthound.com where I bought it a year or more ago and it's no longer available. Check the dealers here: http://www.novatac.com/comm_sales.html
Novatacs are still in production so it must be somewhere.
Thanks .
Thinking of maybe getting the Solarforce XM-L L2T of similar ( whatever the finished light is called, not just the Host ).
Is one of the stock models capable of tailstanding without mods ?
Yes,
1 mode
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=41&id=162
5 mode
http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=44&id=223
You can get whatever light you want and change the tail:
Does anybody have any real lumens data? Solarforce site says 820 lumens, is that correct?
I can't decide between the L2T and the UF-980L, really like the looks of the L2T, but the brightness and throw of the UF seems better.
I have a 3 mode XM-L drop in from SF on the way .
I think my one and only con for this light is the battery slop. I was surprised to find it rattle as easily as it does. It's not loud, but you can definitely feel it.
Your comment prompted me to measure my L2T, it's inside diameter is .730", and the Solarforce 18650 battery (18mm measures .707"), measures .725" at the widest point. .730" - .725" = .005"
As a point of reference, common 20lb. paper is about .003". My fingernails seem to average about .020"
I don't expect it to accommodate every battery in terms of width. That would be impossible with just the stock tube. However, maybe they could be a little more aggressive with the tail switch spring? I don't have slop in the L2i and there's a whole heck of a lot more space in that tube. Of course, the pressure is a bit too much for 18650's so somewhere in between would be nice.
Until you mentioned it I hadn't noticed any rattle, but then I don't shake my flashlights much.
As a matter of fact, I tried shaking several of my GLOCK pistols, and I can hear ammunition rattle in ALL of them.
I believe the L2T light body was designed to accommodate 18mm batteries, but are able to use a pair of CR123's or 16340's if desired.
Are you using an 18650 Lithium or are you using a pair of 16mm batteries?
There is about an .080" difference, well over 1/16".
Have you checked the interior dimensions on your light? Perhaps it is defective.
I don't have an L2i, (yet), to refer to, but if memory serves, I believe that the L2i body doesn't touch the battery except somewhere near the switch. Perhaps "old4570" could weigh-in with some dimensional info to clarify.
If the L2i prevents battery rattle by way of tail spring pressure, then you have done me a favor. That would be a design feature that I would not like to have. I would think that it would require quite a substantial amount of spring pressure to prevent lateral movement.
I am sorry to hear of the product not meeting your expectations. I kind of like the L2T, I am seriously considering buying another, as a spare.
Good luck, hope you find a light that pleases.
haha... I think you misunderstood my post. That's my ONLY con, if I had to give one. I think the light is fantastic and is by far my favorite Solarforce product. And about the L2i - the pressure via tail spring is definitely too much. That has been covered before and I even spoke of that in my previous post. Most people, including myself, don't screw the tail cap all the way. I was just using it as an example that a little bit more pressure from the tail cap is possible. Many members here made note of the old L2 being too long and not securing the 18650 well enough. Solarforce has fixed that issue but maybe a tad bit of slop is to be expected. Maybe somebody else can chime in.
I wrap my batteries with painter's masking tape just enough that I have to shake the battery out .
Especially on my bike lights , to prevent mode changes during bumpy sections of trail .
I just cut a post-it so it is just the size of the circumference of the tube or a little smaller and not quite as long as the tube. Most of my lights are still on their first post-it.
I'll probably just go with tape. The slop is very minimal.
Btw, you get the same slop with the new L2/L2P so this isn't anything unique. It's not even unique to Solarforce lights. It is what it is.
I just received my L2T this morning. It's my first SolarForce light and it's alright. I'm not ecstatic about it but I love the look of it for a P60 host and the HAIII finish is great.
My tailcap rattled when I took it out of the package. The switch was loose and I had to tighten up the switch ring.
Mine has the tail-standing forward clicky switch. It wobbled pretty bad when standing in the off position but in the on position the switch button sits in further and the standing was stable. Since it will only be standing in the On position this is really no big deal but I expected it to stand stable whether on or off.
As to the switch quality itself it feels a little on the mushy side and the "click" sounds a little tinny and cheap. It seems to work fine though.
I used a standard XM-L drop-in with SMO reflector and a KD 2.8A 8*7135 driver. This driver has a small spring for the positive connector but is pretty stiff. I had to shim it out with a strip of aluminum from a diet coke can and it took 3.5 wraps around the reflector to sit snug in the flashlight head. No better than any of my other p60 "clones". I expected a better fitment with this light given the high praise SF lights receive. Shimmed out the heat conductivity is great. The body warms up nearly as quickly as the head.
My biggest problem with this light is the weak tailcap spring that is also too short for a proper battery fit and the battery rattle. With a standard Panasonic 18650 cell the spring didn't make contact with the battery until the tailcap was less than 1/8" from bottoming out. The battery rattled horribly and the slightest bump on the tail would cause the light to change modes. A small strip of cardboard resolved the battery rattle but I had to disassemble the tailcap and stretch out the spring so it would put greater pressure on the battery. Now it functions acceptably.
The standard bezel blocks a fair amount of light and the difference in flood with it off compared to being installed is pretty great. One day I will get the flush SS bezel and that should make me pretty happy. Now if SF would just make an "M" sized body in the same finish as the L2T for a 16340 cell I'd be thrilled!
Overall impression is that I guess I just don't get the Solarforce magic. Then again I just don't get the magic of Apple products and think they are crap but Lord knows they have a rabid fanbase that would beg to differ with me. It is certainly the nicest of all of my P60 hosts but since they all cost less for the complete light than what I paid just for this body it's not really saying much. Is the SF more reliable than the other Surefire clones? Not a chance. Just like the Surefires aren't any better than the SF or other clones. The L2T is a sexy light and I don't regret buying it. It is well machined but to me it's the internal parts that make the difference in a light, not the shell, and the switches used are no better than the rest of the China clones. Perhaps it's just my jaded view of p60 hosts in general and my growing lack of interest in them. I can honestly say that this is likely the last p60 host I will buy as I've grown fond of lights that are either subcompact or larger. The p60 doesn't excel at anything particularly well. Too big for pocket carry...grab a smaller light for flood. Need more throw I'll grab something larger that out throws a p60 and is barely larger but still fits in a jacket pocket or holster. My p60 lights sit unused most of the time. When I first got the bug they were my goto lights but not any longer.
The L2T is not a perfect light but I will say it's better than the budget competition. It's sexy as hell and I'm glad I have it. I will also start carrying it for now since it is the new light and I know I will enjoy it. :)
Johnny (sorry for rambling on) Mac
If you did a DIY pill , ????
+ if you are careful , you can stretch the spring in the tailcap ! to compensate for the driver U chose to put in ...
and yes , using that driver lowers the battery for weaker contact in all hosts .. [ cant really blame the L2T for something U did ]
Or solder onto the driver a longer spring .
or add a spacer to compensate ...
Thats the one thing about that driver , its either too long or too short , its never just right ...
My second SF order arrived today, and i was SO excited to receive my brand new L2T! Except, when i opened the envelope, they had sent me a 2011 L2 instead. :( Hopefully they will have a resolution for this situation. I have a brand new UF drop-in that i've been waiting to use in my new L2T too :( Guess i'll be waiting some more.
@JohnnyMac : You can use a standard drop-in spring instead of the one coming on the 8x7135 driver, just solder it upside-down on it and bent the wire so the contact to the battery is given, I have done this and it works perfektly.