Thanks so much for another superb review! Frontpage’d and Sticky’d.
Great info, thanks for all your work. I’ve been eyeing the P1D since it was released, guess I ought to buy one plus an Egrenade.
Can a McClicky switch be installed in the P1d, or will the P1d switch handle 3.7A? I think its rated at 3A?
Cheers
Matt
Nice photos, soft light, no hard shadows.
The P1D looks really good.
3-2-13 update
From the department of no backpedal: the P1D is the best P60 host extant.
Shortly after I wrote this review I installed in this host my best drop-in; the U3 Meisterstück. A top host deserves the top module and this pricey combination is the best looking, best performing and most powerful P60 flashlight that I know of, certainly the best of my little brood. And unlike most of my lights, this bad boy gets used and abused. When building a computer, this torch has the magical ability to fill every nook, cranny and corner, even when it is not pointed exactly at the target. Just turn it on, drop it anywhere in the computer case and go to work. Light will be everywhere.
Yes, most of the awe comes from Vinz's remarkable drop-in but I have not been at all careful with this torch. It takes a very large hit to produce a scratch.
Spectacular flashlight.
standscorrectedFoy
Why are the insets on the front and tail part rectangular but rounded and smooth on the middle part?
It´s not only with this specific host and I´ve said it again, why do almost all the designs seem so random?
Who designs those lights?!
Can this one take the other SF-bezels?
Since you've been away for a while I'll drop this link here. ;)
Very cool . . . what about output. Did he give you any idea, I'm guessing it's pulling something north of 3 amps. His modules seem to do more per amp; my U3 from him is brighter at 3.25 amps than others I have pulling an amp or more.
Seriously, the wait for my drop-in to arrive from him . . . he kept sending all these gorgeous shots of making the module that you know is going to be yours. Pretty damned exciting.
He rated mine at 1,000 lumens so I'm going to assume yours will be more.
Foy
@Foy, it is direct drive so I have measured current draws up to 9 amps. :D So yeah, it's bright.
Great review & pics of the P1D…
Vinz makes it an art form.
Foy
Wow, wow, wow . . .
New information/post corrected.
wowFoy
Do we have a reverse clicky solution for this host?
Going to need a new switch for a reverse clicky.
Foy
I love my P1D, but, I wish it had a cigar grip to go with it.
Great review! I’ve purchased two of these hosts. Only thing I’ve had issues with is that the switch retaining ring comes unscrewed when I unscrew the tail-cap to swap batteries. This is extremely annoying, especially if needle nose pliers aren’t handy. I’ve been thinking of using thread-locker to keep it in place. Have you had this issue?
I have had a similar issue generally with the tail caps, once really nipped up with some cir clip(needle) pliers………no issue since
Yes great review, had this light for a while now and been a solid work horse . Has been a wok beater for a year or so with various p60’s inside. Has been replaced now with a stainless L2T, but the P1D has to be up there as one of solarforces better quality lights. Very solid/heavy build and took countless drops during use, usually on unforgiving floors…….
Almost forgot, with one of the hosts, the clicky switch doesn’t always stay on after I click it on. The switch seem unreliable. There’s an audible and tactile click, but the light turns off as soon as I remove my thumb off the rubber boot. It does not stay on. This doesn’t always happen, just sometimes. Can I replace the switch with a McClicky or some other better quality switch?
MTN Electronics sells a 20mm switch, will that work? I’m trying to make this as reliable of a light as possible.
Thanks folks.
Erik,
Let us know if the MTN clicky fits.
Just so you know, one issue I’ve had w/ most of my SF hosts is the drop-in spring length and the clicky switch spring. I’ve had to add a contact pad to all my Qlite driver drop-ins and the clicky spring (plus the braid wires), otherwise the light would lose contact when jolted/bounced.
I’ve wanted a P1D for some time, just haven’t pulled the trigger yet.
Ok Guys, I’ve come up with a different solution to my issues by replacing the SF Switches in the L2P and P1D Hosts with a McClicky Switch.
It’s a very inexpensive upgrade.
Let me know if you guys would like a write-up on the process? Just please give me at least 3 weeks to post a write-up up. I’m waiting on a few L2P Hosts to take some measurements.
This will only work with the L2P and P1D, that I know of.
Let me know if you’re up for a write-up. Thanks.