The RMM repaired/modified light is stepping down after 1 minute which is about standard for his drivers and firmware. My SupFire M6 and L1 lights and RMM modified SRK and SecurityIng lights are the same. Richard is conservative and does not like to risk customers killing his efforts though the firmware does allow returning to Turbo immediately if needed.
Great review. I’ve been eyeing this light.
I’ve come to the conclusion that 3 x 18650 lights are my favorite form factor, wether they are loaded in parallel, like the T4, or in a series carrier.
I ran a quick test just now. T4 does step down to a lower output once it hit ~5min 30s mark with a USB fan running at ~50cm away. Most likely it is triggered by temp sensor?
I only have a bundle of mixed cells right now, unable to provide any accurate reading for the time being. Just ordered a batch of 3400mAh over the weekend, will try to come out with something when they arrive.
Thanks for running the test, it appears that it does indeed step down due to temperature…. A little disappointing to be honest.
You do not have to be. It is still brighter than lots of lights out there even at medium mode 
. In fact, I like the temp control function as I hate flashlight that is too hot to handle (there is no winter in my country).
ontheR6;
Considering the weight of the light and the output at maximum, if it did not step down it would eventually damage itself I expect. It also has minimal cooling fins area which does not help the cooling. It does warm up relatively rapidly and heat is the biggest enemy of solid state electronics long term reliability.
A high output LED light that does not heat up relatively quickly is a danger to itself as the heat is building up inside and apparently has no escape path. A group of recently built SRK clones are made this way with a LED mounting plate that does not even touch the light head shell. The only way for heat to escape is via the bolt which attaches the LED mounting plate to the reflector. I was unlucky enough to buy one without knowing it. I sent it to RMM to see if it was suitable for modification and he gave me the bad news that it was a piece of junk internally. He did give it the 7 output level user interface but there is no way to increase the output. Another BLF member who buys SRKs as hosts posted about these lights with the floating LED mounting plates. He was told that it was done due to some customer complaints about the lights getting hot. So basically they have made a bunch of defective lights to satisfy customers who know nothing of electronics and high power LED physics.
About like designing a internal combustion engine with no cooling system.
Freeme,
You are right, i shouldn’t be disappointed - it’s the excited child in me that is speaking out (new hobby LOL). The light is super bright even at the medium level. I really like the light and can’t stop messing with it! :bigsmile:
Out of curiosity, I ran an unscientific test regarding temperature readings of the torch on high, here are the results:
- Thermometer used: Cen-Tech infrared (not too bad, i used it in the past to measure tire temps at the track)
- The area the temperature was measured on the outside of the torch: Between side switch and bezel (head).
- Room temp: 73 Degrees Fahrenheit. (central AC set to 72)
- Starting torch Temp: 76 Degrees Fahrenheit.
- Batteries: Fully charged 3400 mah panasonic brand. (Newly Purchased)
Test 1:
Readings On High:
1:00 min - Temp reading: 94 Degrees Fahrenheit
2:00 min - Temp reading: 107 Degrees
2:35 min - Temp reading: 111 Degrees Step down occurred
Test 2: with cooling fan
Cooled torch to 76 degrees prior to start of test 2.
Added a small 5 inch fan apx 10 inches from the torch and pointed it straight at it.
Here are the results:
1:00 min - Temp reading: 87 Degrees Fahrenheit
2:00 min - Temp reading: 95 Degrees
2:35 min - Temp reading: 97.8 Degrees
3:00 min - Temp reading: 100 Degrees
4:00 min - Temp reading: 104 Degrees
4:35 min - Temp reading: 110 Degrees Step down occurred
In addition, I left the torch on in medium setting for about 30 min and the temp reading was 130 degrees which is uncomfortable to hold for more than a few seconds. It reiterates your point about the light getting way too hot to handle without a step down plus the potential damage it could be doing to the internals.
Interesting comparison you make with an internal combustion engine, makes perfect sense. Thank you for your explanation! I’m a sponge right now and trying to absorb as much information as possible.
BTW if you had of held onto the light during your 30 minute temperature test it almost certainly would not have gotten so hot as much of the heat would transfer to you and your blood circulation would have helped carry away the heat. Your hand and body would act as a heat sink.
Interesting point, i actually thought that holding it would further raise the temp….
What you explained makes sense since our body temp is lower.
Thanks for pointing that out.
re heat: anyone compared T4 and T3?
Hi guys…i’m bumping old thread…
Anyone know how to get access to the T4 head without damaging?
Mine 1 led just not light up.
Still bright though…
The crown is loctite…
The contact board quite difficult to pry open…
Appreciate for any tips 
Strap wrench and some heating may help.
[quote=sorotantaz] Hi guys..i'm bumping old thread.. Anyone know how to get access to the T4 head without damaging? Mine 1 led just not light up. Still bright though.. The crown is loctite.. The contact board quite difficult to pry open.. Appreciate for any tips :) [/quote]
freeme,
So opening is from the bezel? Gonna be tough one…
Try to contact info@solarstorm.com…seems the email doesn’t exist anymore.
Drill a small hole to the driver and pull it out. You can’t get to the LED’s without removing the reflector because is screwed to the head behind and is accessible only if the driver is removed. RaceR86 has done it: Solarstorm T3 and T4
Thanks for the lead. Seems opening the driver will be easier.
Will try tomorrow. Hopefully easy fix on the inside.
Update: Tips for others. Once you able to open the bezel, try to shake the head up side down to move the reflector+led board. Once it loose you can simply poke the driver board from the inside without drilling n chipping the board by prying up.
Much less effort…
by the way, did you notice that LEDs look like fake cree (LB). I have T3, and at first one LED burned out, then another) (it is direct drive and LEDs are in parallel). Only after replacing all LEDs I noticed the difference.
Latticebright was not active at that point of time. You could verify your via https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/34914
Same as my T4…one led died, then test with button battery connected directly to led to see whether they are alive…after that, 2 led died and driver become messy. The remaining leds become dim… Not sure whether the driver has failed.
The driver there is simple direct drive, so if it is broken - most probably FET burned.