Review: SolarStorm T4 { image heavy }

[ontheR6]

@Richwouldnt

BTW if you had of held onto the light during your 30 minute temperature test it almost certainly would not have gotten so hot as much of the heat would transfer to you and your blood circulation would have helped carry away the heat. Your hand and body would act as a heat sink.

Interesting point, i actually thought that holding it would further raise the temp….
What you explained makes sense since our body temp is lower.
Thanks for pointing that out.

[nisse]

re heat: anyone compared T4 and T3?

[sorotantaz]

Hi guys…i’m bumping old thread…
Anyone know how to get access to the T4 head without damaging?
Mine 1 led just not light up.
Still bright though…
The crown is loctite…
The contact board quite difficult to pry open…

Appreciate for any tips

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

Strap wrench and some heating may help.

[quote=sorotantaz] Hi guys..i'm bumping old thread.. Anyone know how to get access to the T4 head without damaging? Mine 1 led just not light up. Still bright though.. The crown is loctite.. The contact board quite difficult to pry open.. Appreciate for any tips :) [/quote]

[sorotantaz]

freeme,
So opening is from the bezel? Gonna be tough one…
Try to contact info@solarstorm.com…seems the email doesn’t exist anymore.

[Mikk0]

Drill a small hole to the driver and pull it out. You can’t get to the LED’s without removing the reflector because is screwed to the head behind and is accessible only if the driver is removed. RaceR86 has done it: Solarstorm T3 and T4

[sorotantaz]

@Mikk0

Drill a small hole to the driver and pull it out. You can’t get to the LED’s without removing the reflector because is screwed to the head behind and is accessible only if the driver is removed. RaceR86 has done it: Solarstorm T3 and T4

Thanks for the lead. Seems opening the driver will be easier.
Will try tomorrow. Hopefully easy fix on the inside.

Update: Tips for others. Once you able to open the bezel, try to shake the head up side down to move the reflector+led board. Once it loose you can simply poke the driver board from the inside without drilling n chipping the board by prying up.
Much less effort…

[pro22000]

by the way, did you notice that LEDs look like fake cree (LB). I have T3, and at first one LED burned out, then another) (it is direct drive and LEDs are in parallel). Only after replacing all LEDs I noticed the difference.

[freeme (youtube.com/@1thedeals)]

Latticebright was not active at that point of time. You could verify your via https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/34914

@pro22000

by the way, did you notice that LEDs look like fake cree (LB). I have T3, and at first one LED burned out, then another) (it is direct drive and LEDs are in parallel). Only after replacing all LEDs I noticed the difference.

[sorotantaz]

@pro22000

by the way, did you notice that LEDs look like fake cree (LB). I have T3, and at first one LED burned out, then another) (it is direct drive and LEDs are in parallel). Only after replacing all LEDs I noticed the difference.

Same as my T4…one led died, then test with button battery connected directly to led to see whether they are alive…after that, 2 led died and driver become messy. The remaining leds become dim… Not sure whether the driver has failed.

[pro22000]

@sorotantaz

@pro22000

by the way, did you notice that LEDs look like fake cree (LB). I have T3, and at first one LED burned out, then another) (it is direct drive and LEDs are in parallel). Only after replacing all LEDs I noticed the difference.

Same as my T4…one led died, then test with button battery connected directly to led to see whether they are alive…after that, 2 led died and driver become messy. The remaining leds become dim… Not sure whether the driver has failed.

The driver there is simple direct drive, so if it is broken - most probably FET burned.