O.k, so with a King Kong at 4.2V I’m getting an AMP reading at 1.35. I think this is an accurate reading for a couple of reasons:
It was advertised at the store as being 600lms (lower than the other xml lights advertised)
It’s not nearly as bright as my JM07 at 2.47A, or my Ultrafire 502b at 2A
The light output I’m getting is consistent with the youtube video I posted earlier
The pack I purchased has a trustfire warrenty, and I’ve met the owners at the store so I’m confident it’s genuine.
Based on other posts with higher amp readings I’d say it depends on where you order it from as it must come with different drivers.
Aside from that, these were my expectations before ordering, and I’m pretty happy with it. I really like the nice floody beam profile, especially now that I’ve modified my reflector with an OP effect. I now have a really nicely built flooder that’s great for cycling and general purposes and has a killer runtime of probably 3 hours + on a King Kong.
I changed driver to AMC7135*8 ( Nanjg 105C ), that I purchased from intl-outdoor .
Working great so far and definitely gives more juice from led ( also no-more strobo mods… wohoo ). Throws much better and beam is brighter. I did took some beamshot photos after driver change. I forgot to take “before” photos, sorry.
Welcome to BLF kahvitahra ! Thanks for the beamshots!
Your post reminded me to Google around and see what prices for the A8 & A 8kit are running. Well I found the kit for $36.99 from Keygos.com! Great deal!
I have the kit, purchased from FancyFlashlights. Funny thing: charger works just fine for the supplied TrustFire Flame 5000, which is a protected cell. Charges in 2-3 hours, 4.22 each time. I've used the same charger for my King Kong unprotected cells a few times and both the battery and charger get pretty warm. Needless to say, I am no longer using this charger for the KK.
OK it's a budget light and lacking quality control is to be expected. For the 2nd time I wanted to turn on the A8 and it did not respond. I also had noticed that it wobbled a bit while tail standing.
Thus I scrutinized the clickie.
It was hard to get out. But as it turned out, it had been screwed in too far and therefore the rubber cap was sticking out beyond the tail ring. This was the reason for the unstable tail stand.
The white insulation ring was too tall and prevented the aluminium retaining ring to make contact with the PCB. Sanding down the white plastic ring resolved the contact problem.
And assembling all properly, resolved the wobbling.