Hmmm so I got my TR-3T6 of dx.com (bad idea?) and was gonna give this mod a try (new a this but good with soldering iron). Anyway opened it up, no TF sticker but there is the TF mark on the board (and 2012-07)
After pulling out the board I see where normally the R5 and R7 positions are mine is marked R2 and R5, both already have resistors in place (marked R200 and R250). So is this a fake, or just a new/different driver? Can/should I attempt the mod anyway? Thanks!
I have opened my light ,too. Was hard do desolder the circuit with the big heatsink attached.
Two resistors R100 paralleled on stock. I have measured the stock current through LED 4.4A-4.5A over whole voltage range.
I have no such low resistors.
I have paralleled two R220 and one 1R and soldered two legs on this thing.
Then I have plastidiped the whole selfmade resistor. I should get 6A or so, not bad for the first stage.
Look at his beauty. :bigsmile:
Sadly they sanded off the labels on the transistors so I can’t find out what they can handle max. But it will get hot for sure.
Measurements before mod:
Voltage……………Tailcap current…………current through LED
8V………………… 2.1A………………. 4.45A . . . . . 1.5A per LED= <1653lm
After mod
High………………. 3.24A……………… 6.24A . . . . . .>2A per LED= <2100lm
Mid ………………… 1.4A……………… 2.6A
Low………………… 0.32A……………. 0.56A
Tailcap measurement with 2 cells after some time about 3.5A on high.
Conclusion:
That’s about 2 A through each LED, I am quite happy with this so far. we will see what thermal management says. I have calculated maximum lumens for xmlt6 from datasheet to approximate theoretical lumen increase. About 400lumen more that is a plus of 25%, for this simple modification. NICE!!
I have measured temperature on stock some time ago and it did never climb over 60°C=140°F at an ambient temperature of 23°C.
Now after the mod it’s after a run of 20 minutes 74°C=165°F, the handle is now over 150°F….that’s hot. I should buy some kevlar flashlight gloves 
I stopped experiment after 30 minutes it was at 80°C=177°F on the head
Handle is 70°C=158°F. What should we learn ->use not for indoor tail standing.
I have added some o the white thermal glue on the pill before putting things together in the housing, because I noticed that it not hit the body so well.
Anyone tried to increase current more?
Thanks for a nice post with picture and lots of details Werner…
Ill see if I can contribute to this thread with mod updates when I get my light…
This was from an email i got from DX this morning!
TrustFire TR-3T6 2500lm 5-Mode Flashlight
GOLD MEDAL WINNER! Congrats!
“Best Flashlight Ever Have. Solid Built. Nice O-ring. Nice Output. Can Take 3 battery. I Use 3500mAH. It can be use when its dark around you to light up everything in front you… Worth the penny.
I love this light output. Can Bright up everything nearer with huge spot. Can be use when black out. Every one should get this one. Very Necessary.” — Danshan
$33.50
I got these lies ads last week.
It was a PITA to read through this thread when I was looking for modifying info. It was some info on that page, and some on another page…
Instead of adding more modifying stuff in between all kind of talk about this light I made another thread about my light (from wallbuys).
Thread here.
It does not have the typical driver.Here is one of the pictures of it.
Fasttech has now resistors on stock…
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1/10003143/1234405-0805-01r-smd-precision-resistors-100-piece
I have the most noob question-How do I cycle between the modes of the 3T6?
Just half press the switch when it’s on, to go in next mode.
Or switch on off on off on off until you reach the right mode.
After your post I ended up ordering the manafont driver. In the pics on the website it looks identical to the TF driver to which the resistor mod is done earlier in this topic. So I ordered it hoping to replace the driver in my TR-3T6 (which I now suspect might be fake) as my driver doesn’t have an R5 (not used) and R7 position, but an R2 and R5 position which are both used.
Imagine my surprise when the driver arrived and it was identical to the one I already have, so you don’t get the one pictured on manafont! Now what? Not happy obviously…
That info sucks sorry to hear that. I ordered that driver for my wallbuys 3T6 3-4 days ago!!!
Pictures and dimensions please…
Did you got the one board only driver? This can be resistormodded too or not
Well, I was a bit skeptical about how that driver would look and perform stock…
Its a reason (several actually) why I considered a driver from IO a month ago, and why I ordered one yesterday… (not that one I looked at that would fit nicely in the light)
Only bad thing is that the IO drivers just had a little price bump…
apt323, have you checked if you had the same driver as I got on my wallbuys light? I remember you had the same tailcap readings… I would say that was a good driver, and dont really see why there should be a reason to change it out for the manafont driver…
Personally, if I had not desired the features on the IO driver I ordered I would have just bought the LD-29 for 5.59$ (before discount) if I never had plans of using 3 cells. You would have to remove the 21mm board and modify it to your current 26mm board though… Should be easy…
Maybe Werner can help out if he gets some pictures if the 2 cell manafont driver… It seems most boards can be modified with a resistor mod. How well it works, how reliable it is, and how efficient the driver will be after the mod is another story. But that is some of the fun with modding.
As you can read in this thread, mine went through a lot. Had it not been for the unlucky short circuit it would have lived today after lots of abuse.
No big loss for me though. I had a fun project, and now got the reasson I needed to buy a driver from IO… 
… Should be a win, win project if the IO driver lives up to its paper specs…
Will try and get pics. Size wise looks identical to the one in this topic to which the resistor mod has been done (so its 2-piece). The difference I can see is the location were the new resistor is placed (R5) is labelled R2 on mine. There doesn’t seem to be an R7 (unless its behind the coil). Mine does have R5 as well but, in the original pic it has no resistor in place, where on the boards I have there is a resistor in that position already.
So recap; mine has R2 and R5 both with resistors.
The one is see the mod done to has R5 and R7 with no resistor I place in R5 (before mod).
RaceR86 - wanted to have a backup just incase something like what happened yours happened to mine when I went to mod it. Those little bitty components are small for my old eyes…. 
More of a backup then a swap out.
I see…
Keep us updated on the mod.
Here are the images regarding the manafont driver.
The 1st picure is the driver manafont sent me (I found there is an R7 position as well, it was hidden behind the coil; so that makes R2,R5 and R7 all with resistors)
The 2nd picture is what they show on their website (only R5 and R7, with R5 empty) <-what I wanted (and expected!) to receive…
Looks like it should be easy to mod.
R2=R200 resistor
R5=R250 resistor
R7= ?? not able to tell from the picture, what are the value on it?
You know what output (Amps) is on high?
R7 has an R100 resistor.
See The problem is I just wanted to do a simple mod that others have done before me.
First my flashlight didn’t have the driver I thought, so I ordered this one (which was the same as the one in my light already). I don’t know what the output is and I don’t have a multimeter. As I normally don’t do these kind of things, I’m not gonna buy a multimeter just for this as I might as well buy a new (more powerful) flashlight then…
How are the dimensions of the manafont driver?