It seems that the “Trusted” Trustfire has the mark “TF” on the outside perimeter of the driver board.
Do you mean sticker? Cuz on that authenic picture, I can’t find that ’TF” on the outside board.
My black circuit board did not have the “TF” logo. The Trustfire sticker on the heat sink was also not attached.
I have ordered one of these from DX, looking forward to it. it was sent 23 november, so maybe i’ll have it before christmas, but i don’t know.
i just received a mail from dx, and it included a link to a page with some discounts, where this light was 5% off with the coupon “SAVINGWEEK”.
Did anyone else order from DX? i hope it’s a good light, and not just a crappy copy i’ll receive…
Hello, I am new to the world of LED flashlights and decided to dip my toes in and bought this model off a Chinese seller on Ebay. I also bought a two 18650 batteries and a charger off DX. The flashlight does not turn on, however I suspect the problem is the charger/batteries. The charger frequently shifts between red and green indicator lights, like it’s not charging, and testing the batteries with a voltometer (?) shows they hold very weak charge. However now I am afraid that I’ve purchased three pieces of junk after reading this thread!
Does this flashlight look legit or is it counterfeit?
Not saying it’s a fake…. But when comparing it to mine… The stamping is differently placed. Just saying
Sorry newbie here. Bought this flashlight (my 3rd) as I thought (naively probably) It would be much brighter than my fandyfire C8. Thinking 3 XML instead of 1 must be much better but can’t say the TR-3T6 is that much brighter. So thinking of doing the resister mod and understand I need to put a 0.1 ohm (will use 1V) on R5. Just one question: do I replaced the resistor on R5 (assuming there’s one there) or put it over it (parallel)? Sorry I guess this has already been answered but a lot is too tech for me and a few too many pages to read as well. Btw only gonna run the light for max 5-10 min at the time with 2 18650 protected cells (have option of 3 but too big for me). Thanks!
I am curious…
Until today I thought all current flows through the resistor and the controller measures the voltage drop….
It does, but this may work anyway. After that mod, only part of the current is going through the wire and momentary switch, the rest of it is going to go through the resistor that is already there. (I still have not done this)
I have said to myself… No more 1.gen XM-L lights… And no more cool white (blue) tints…
But! 
…would not this: http://www.intl-outdoor.com/9a-3mode-5512v-circuit-board-p-561.html
- this: WallBuys.com is for sale | HugeDomains (sale for 28.11:money_mouth_face:
=awesome, cheap, extreme output light on 2 or 3 batteries… 2500+ real lumens…
I want to get close to 3A on each led in high mode. Not sure how the leds are connected stock, or if that driver is perfect fit in case the modding tip in post “616” does not work…
If changing the driver I would prefer to keep the stock wiring , not sure if they are in series or parallel on the Ultrafire…
Thoughts/input?
What is the Ampere output from the Manafont driver?
http://www.manafont.com/product_info.php/flashlight-component-triple-t6-cree-circuit-board-driver-p-7973?rp=522815
Will it take 3 batteries too? It only says 8.4v input. If changing out the driver, I would like to have the option to use 3 batteries.
I have never modded a light before. Input on this light is appreciated.
Somewhere in this thread your question has been discussed and answered. Happy reading.
Had already read several pages… This thread is so long…
Ok, read/skimmed through everything!! In the beginning there were sayings/”rumors” about leds being in serial… Later in it got confirmed and became common knowledge that the leds are in parallel.
Post 313 confirms it with a picture
If leds are in parallel, would you not need 9A total to get 3A to each led? In other words. The one I found from intl-outdoor would be perfect right?
Im a noob when it comes to modifying and a bit unsure of this stuff even if I have read up on the subject.
As for the Manafont driver, I assume that is the one in used in the manafont 2x 18650 light.
People seem to report different stuff. 2.0A-2.9A when using two batteries… (mostly 2.4-2.5A) 1.4A and a bit higher when using three batteries (in the 3 battery version).
Im interested in extreme output (for limited time) and around 2.5A from 2 batteries in series is not enough for me. 
I could just use two hard driven single lights instead…
In post 539 is the “recipe” to increase the output by about. 50%. Probably a TrustFire 3x light… Not sure if the mod can be done on the manafont driver only made for two batteries.
More info on the mod in post 561
Im considering the wallbuys Ultrafire mentioned in my previous post, mod the transistor if possible, if not, buy the 9A intl-outdoor driver.
Again, can someone with some DIY knowledge confirm that the intl-outdoor driver would fit and get close to 3A to each led?
Wow 12$ for a driver to mod a 30$ flashlight…
Seems to a 9A driver so it could work but since nobody has tried it….
I have decided to increase the output a bit with the resistor mod in the next weeks.
The light (Ultrafire) is 28 bucks from wallbuys in the 2 hour sale on jan 10.
Its just nice to have the option to put in a good driver if the light does not turn out as desired. Hopefully the light can be modded with the resistor mod if i pull the trigger.
The manafont driver is close to 6 bucks.
6,5$ extra for a driver that gets you the following:
-Built for true 9A regulated output
high, med, low, no blinkies
-Works with 2 or 3 batteries
-Low voltage protection when using 2 batteries
-Built in overheating protection, and thermal pad included.
-Bought from reputable and trusted dealer with good customer support
The first 2 reasons (9A, h,m,l- no blinkies) are worth the cost for me…
I have to pay 25% VAT and custom fees if packages cost above 34$ (200 NOK). At 40$ bucks lights will cost about 65$ if I don’t try go get past the system (gift, low value), which is illegal….
I like The King, but 40/65$ (if going for the clone) for a light that probably wont be more powerful, needs more batteries, and does not have a mid (medium) mode, in a color (gold) im not a huge fan of is not more tempting.
The 3 XM-L DRY is nice, but not a fan of the body…
At 28$ with mod I assume it is unbeatable for output for its price. (if it can be modded)
At 40$ with new driver I don’t know of any other lights that can math it for performance, battery flexibility (2/3), and have decent modes (no blinkies, and still have high, med,low). 3 modes is a must, especially when it will basically be, turbo, high, med… I have smaller lights for low…
If anyone know of a better high output light at a very low price, please let me know…
Again, if modders have thoughts on the intl-outdoor driver, please come with them…
Hmmm so I got my TR-3T6 of dx.com (bad idea?) and was gonna give this mod a try (new a this but good with soldering iron). Anyway opened it up, no TF sticker but there is the TF mark on the board (and 2012-07)
After pulling out the board I see where normally the R5 and R7 positions are mine is marked R2 and R5, both already have resistors in place (marked R200 and R250). So is this a fake, or just a new/different driver? Can/should I attempt the mod anyway? Thanks!
I have opened my light ,too. Was hard do desolder the circuit with the big heatsink attached.
Two resistors R100 paralleled on stock. I have measured the stock current through LED 4.4A-4.5A over whole voltage range.
I have no such low resistors.
I have paralleled two R220 and one 1R and soldered two legs on this thing.
Then I have plastidiped the whole selfmade resistor. I should get 6A or so, not bad for the first stage.
Look at his beauty. :bigsmile:
Sadly they sanded off the labels on the transistors so I can’t find out what they can handle max. But it will get hot for sure.
Measurements before mod:
Voltage……………Tailcap current…………current through LED
8V………………… 2.1A………………. 4.45A . . . . . 1.5A per LED= <1653lm
After mod
High………………. 3.24A……………… 6.24A . . . . . .>2A per LED= <2100lm
Mid ………………… 1.4A……………… 2.6A
Low………………… 0.32A……………. 0.56A
Tailcap measurement with 2 cells after some time about 3.5A on high.
Conclusion:
That’s about 2 A through each LED, I am quite happy with this so far. we will see what thermal management says. I have calculated maximum lumens for xmlt6 from datasheet to approximate theoretical lumen increase. About 400lumen more that is a plus of 25%, for this simple modification. NICE!!
I have measured temperature on stock some time ago and it did never climb over 60°C=140°F at an ambient temperature of 23°C.
Now after the mod it’s after a run of 20 minutes 74°C=165°F, the handle is now over 150°F….that’s hot. I should buy some kevlar flashlight gloves 
I stopped experiment after 30 minutes it was at 80°C=177°F on the head
Handle is 70°C=158°F. What should we learn ->use not for indoor tail standing.
I have added some o the white thermal glue on the pill before putting things together in the housing, because I noticed that it not hit the body so well.
Anyone tried to increase current more?
Thanks for a nice post with picture and lots of details Werner…
Ill see if I can contribute to this thread with mod updates when I get my light…
This was from an email i got from DX this morning!
TrustFire TR-3T6 2500lm 5-Mode Flashlight
GOLD MEDAL WINNER! Congrats!
“Best Flashlight Ever Have. Solid Built. Nice O-ring. Nice Output. Can Take 3 battery. I Use 3500mAH. It can be use when its dark around you to light up everything in front you… Worth the penny.
I love this light output. Can Bright up everything nearer with huge spot. Can be use when black out. Every one should get this one. Very Necessary.” — Danshan
$33.50
I got these lies ads last week.