Review: TrustFire Z5, old 2 x 18650 small lens zoomy

This TrustFire Z5 is from 365SHOPPING on Amazon for $17.17. It is my first buck driver flashlight.

I give it three and a half out of five stars. ★★★ </span style>✬</span style> ☆

This is sometimes called TrustFire Z1, but Z1 is also an angle head CR123a light.

It has been reviewed before: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/3223

Pros:

  • Bright. It came with an XM-L2.

  • Brightness insensitive to battery charge state and quality.

  • Long run time.

  • Nice build. All threads are snug, smooth and slightly trapezoidal.

  • Unusual design, inside and out.

  • Smooth uniformly anodized finish, nice color.

  • Mode memory.

  • Good two handed grip.

  • Near unity duty factor in the lower modes. Current varies with the buck switching cycle, but (I think) there is no pulse width modulation. This further contributes to the run time / brightness combination, and probably to LED life.

Cons:

  • In all but the narrowest zoom positions, there is a bright ring around the spot.

  • Homely, some say ugly, appearance and feel, in spite of extensive machine work.

  • Unhidden blinky modes.

  • Poor one handed grip.

  • The included cells and charger are not useful.

  • It says “Brightness up to 1600 LM” on one side.

  • B42 comments below that the head became loose after a drop that would only have scratched most flashlights.

The included cells say “UltraFire 3000 mAh” on them, which is not encouraging. My charger reads the capacity as 478 and 490 mAh for the two cells. The charger looks alright, but does not come open easily to see what technology it uses. I read 4.38 V across a cell the included charger was charging. So I put the charger and two cells in a baggie labeled recycle.

It tail stands but is tall and wobbly.

Click to view full size.

The star, instead of fitting in a hole in the pill, fills the 32 mm. space in the sliding bezel part of the head. It sits directly on the end of the fixed head, held on by rubbery heat sink compound and two small screws. The forward zoom slide is limited by a step of the ID of the sliding head hitting the back of the star. This provides an extra thermal path directly from the star to the finned outer head, at full zoom. B42 comments below that the head became loose after a fall. It seems that the head being held on only by the huge star is a structural weakness.
There is a piece that fits in between the star and the lens, keeping the lens from sitting on the dome of the LED. It is secured, along with the lens and o-ring, to the sliding head, by the bezel ring. This spacer limits the backward zoom by hitting the front of the star.

There is a separate aluminum part screwed onto the battery tube, apparently to improve grip, with its own o-ring. Perhaps this is a separate piece to allow the battery tube to be cut from from a small diameter tube. Or perhaps they did it just to show off their skill with the numerically controlled lathe.

The o-ring at the tail is too thin to seat against the inside of the tail cap. Perhaps this is where the vacuum is broken so the head can slide.

The threads, on the tail cap, between the battery tube and head, on the little odd handle piece and on the bezel ring are snug fitting, well shaped and fairly smooth.

The pill is visible only from the back of the head. The driver appears to be soldered to some sort of pill. The head slides on one o-ring.

The driver is on two perpendicular boards.

It has a busy lumpy look, maybe like a jeep. The finish is nice looking, smooth and uniform, but not unusual. Half a star off for using so much machine work without making it look or feel better than that.
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It draws 1.2 A from the included 2 x 18650 cells, charged to 3.8 V, as they came, 1.09 A with them freshly charged and 1.16 A from two Panasonics charged to 3.9 V each. This negative input resistance looks like an output current regulated buck converter.
It has the usual five modes, but it has mode memory. Contrary to the description, it has an XM-L2 Cree LED. This model may have actually improved over the years of its production, rather than deteriorating as some do.

Testing the driver, with an old XM-L and a fraction of an Ohm added by the meter and connections and the cells charged to a total of 7.6 V., I read 2.4 A. in high.

The lens is 28 mm., like an SK-78, ZeusRay or other common 1 x 18650 lights, but most of that is aperture as with an SS-A100. The focal length is fairly long, giving a small spot and slightly increased throw.

Sipik SK-73 on left, Z5 on right:

Both the throw and the total output are a bit better than those of the SK-73, which has unusual output for an unmodified budget light, having direct drive with no resistors in series. (I would give the SK-73 five stars if I were reviewing it now.)

And zoomed to similar size:

The spot is brighter at the edges than at the center, both partly and fully zoomed out to flood, so half a star off for beam shape. This is due to a shorter focal length at the edge of the lens than at the center. Zoomed to spot, the outer part of the lens over focuses and forms a halo around the square spot. Zoomed out, part way or to flood, the outer part of the lens produces an outer part of the spot that is more focused and therefore brighter than the central part.

This can be mostly fixed by substituting an Ahorton lens. See below.

Outdoor beam shots of an earlier example.

Summary - - - - - - - - - - ★ ★ ★ ✬</span style>/2 ☆
The 2 x 18650 configuration gives long run time at consistent high output in high mode and also very long run time in the lower modes, with the various disadvantages of size and multiple cells. This light seems to fulfill these expectations well and is nicely made. It is a somewhat unusual old design that has not been highly imitated, perhaps for good reasons.
I take off half a star for the non-uniform spot, half a star for lacking the beauty that such good machine work and 4,000 years of pottery tradition should make possible, and half a star off for depending on internal parts to hold the case together.

Ahorton lens

The non-uniform beam pattern when zoomed out can be mostly fixed by substituting an Ahorton lens. $6.99 + shipping. http://www.illumn.com/ahorton-27-2mm-aspheric-glass-lens.html This gives a nearly uniform beam and a much bigger focused spot, at some loss in throw. This lens swap would be good in combination with dedoming, or an XP-L High Intensity LED. Unlike the CNQ Zoomy Host, this lens fits the Z5 with no modification.
This lens also has the advantage of being glass and more scratch resistant, but it protrudes past the bezel ring and would break if the light fell head down on a hard surface. It will no longer head stand.

The SK-73 is on the left again, and the Z5 with Ahorton on the right.

Zoomed in to spot:

Zoomed out to flood:

The shorter focal length will allow a thicker star without losing focus.

Plans

When I ordered this, I was thinking of it for an XHP50, but 6 volt transistor regulated “linear” drivers are either expensive or limited in function. So I am keeping this as 3 volt and use a 3 x 14500 light with the XHP50, both with buck drivers. So far, I am pleased by the ability of buck divers to keep up the brightness, without straining the cell by repeatedly charging it all the way up to 4.2 V.

IOS driver
With the stock driver and 7.6 V. Panasonic cells, I measured 2.4 A. to the LED.
I had ordered this driver:
Click for store page.

This is what I received and tested:

The large component appears to be a transformer.

With the same cells and LED but more leads, I get 2.1 A to the LED.
This does not encourage me to do a driver swap.
Perhaps one can increase current by swapping a sense resistor, but I don’t know how.

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I don’t know if the driver is pressed or screwed into the head, and I have no good reason to keep on trying to get it out. I drilled the holes big enough to fit needle nose pliers into. The driver still works, but it has not come out. The driver appears to be soldered to a small brass ring that is either screwed or pressed tightly into the fixed head. The front of the head is 21 mm. and smooth. The rear is about 24 mm. and threaded to fit the battery tube.

Probably what it needs is a Mountain Electronics 22 mm. buck driver, but at least for now, I am leaving in the stock driver.

XP-L on Noctigon

To regain the small spot with the Ahorton lens, I put in an XP-L High Intensity V3 2B from IOS. The High Intensity, as well as the buck driver, is new to me, and it has suffered some damage. I am using a Noctigon 4 x XP star, using only the center LED pads. It had to be filed a bit to allow the new 22 gauge wires to fit through.

Zoomed in. Z5 on left this time, SK73 charged to 3.94 V on right:

Zoomed out:

The spot is not uniform with the Ahorton lens, but a bright spot at the center is not necessarily a disadvantage.

With the thick direct star, thermal epoxy and heat sink compound, cooling is now very good.

Fritz, I’ll have to post some of my pics later, but this was my first ‘real’ light I ever bought. I ended up hating it so much I tore it apart. About a year later I completely rebuilt it. It’s sort of respectable now, but something about it still bugs me. I think it’s because it’s so ugly.

I prefer smooth curves, like a Yezl t9, but at least it is different looking and has a certain consistency to it. The shape is too complicated, rather than too simple like the LED Lensers. Perhaps it is intended to be zoomed with both hands. I’ll take off half a star for appearance and half for output spot uniformity.

This was one of my first lights as well, I thought I liked the rugged appearance and dual batteries for extended run time, but then when I dropped it on the asphalt and it came up pretty severely dented/damaged, I was annoyed, comparing it to other lights including a C8, UltrafireW878 and a TRJ3T6, I got very annoyed with it. Once I got my J18 and Xiaozhi and Convoy S2 I tossed it, just like the crapfire batteries it came with.

The only structural weakness I see is that the forward slide is stopped by only the two little screws and adhesive heat sink compound. My Convoy S2+ and TangsFire C8 are probably much more rugged physically, but I don’t have batteries in either of them.

It just scratched and gouged the metal from a maybe 4 foot fall to pavement and then the sliding head was loosened, cheaply made. Still looks kinda neat/odd. Also you can find it around for $12.

Here is a similar looking light for a higher price.

The inside front looks different. Maybe just that the spacer isn’t anodized.

DX lists lights of several brands that look like the TrustFire Z5. Does anyone know the history?