I poked around for switch covers on Aliexpress, and while there are a variety of sizes and depths, didn’t find a direct replacement for the ~10/11mm covers that Sofirn uses.
I’ve been informed that a drain fix is in the works.
The spurious lighting isn’t harmful, but I’d hope that it prompts a reconsideration of the related (and IMO sort of frivolous) power bank feature, or at least more thorough testing before for all bugs before mass production is initiated. The industry already relies on public betas of sorts, but it shouldn’t be carried out by paying customers unless they’re willing.
Thanks for the nice thread. I’ve just bought a Thrunite T2 which I love because it is a very (very) bright & floody light, but the green tint gives me a headache. That Cree XHP 70 is a true green monster . Came across this thread, got the Champagne 4000k TS21, now having a lot of fun with Anduril. I was very disappointed with the TS21 rapid step down at first, but now that the temp has been set to 60, it is night and day better.
FWIW, I’ve set the two lights next to each other and taken sequential pictures with my Canon in raw, manual settings, 5000k white balance, to follow their step downs during a 40 minute period. The Wurkkos, if still not as bright, could at least now keep closer in brightness to the T2 (which as mentioned is incredibly bright and floody). When it comes to color accuracy, there simply is no comparison between the 2; Wurkkos is so much better. Following are pictures to show off the beautiful tint of the Wurkkos 4000k. Very highly recommended!
Out of curiosity, I also measured external temp. After a 40 minute or so continuous run, Wurkkos measures 50 C at the head, and thrunite 45. Not bad at all.
BTW I searched but couldn’t find: how to do voltage calibration? Take out battery after full charge, measure with my Rat Shack voltmeter, then set internal voltage to same value?
What are some of the reasons for doing this? So light doesn’t shut down/step down too soon if internal voltmeter is erroneously low? Thanks.
For the same reason that thermal calibration is performed — to ensure that the light’s internal sensor measurements correspond accurately to the true values. Take a measurement, then apply the configuration.
It was a feature added to Anduril 2’s advanced UI, and allows one to apply a correction factor as needed, via an additional 7H click sequence when in the battery check mode.
The T2 has piqued my interest, but too bad about the tint, proprietary cell, and price.
Not so! This is a better design. I would be much more interested if the switch was LARGE and proud and rubber. As others have said, coloring the lock ring is a good option for style.
Ok done - thanks. Rat Shack measures 4.16V at full charge, flashlight says 4.1, so I did 8 clicks for +.05V. Feel good lol.
Yes the Thrunite T2 is an incredibly bright and floody light. And it seems to do it with ease. I think because the floody character makes the light output spread smoothly and evenly all around. If I walk into a small room in my house and point the T2 to the ceiling, it’s as if I’ve turned on the ceiling light. Too bad about the green, it’s overwhelming. BTW the Thrunite body with its more shallow cut doesn’t look aggressive but to me feels much better to hold than TS21 body with its deep valley and peak cut.
Because I am used to the T2’s prodigious output (for such a tiny light), I have had to set my TS21 to always one click start at Turbo level. For those not ready with manual: with light on, double click to Turbo level, then 10 clicks to set Manual Memory. Now your TS21 will always start with one click at Turbo, regardless of last level. I love manual memory, makes life so simple, just like an old flashlight lol.
That is welcome news. :partying_face: Please also give due consideration to the color choices and maintain consistency with them. Avoid the path that the LT1 lantern has followed, which has sowed discontent, and confusion for users.
I generally like the higher outputs, and ease with which larger emitters produce them, without having to be pushed closer to the limits. I’ve been working on a project needing some illumination inside a cavity, and first tried to use the fashionable SC31 Pro as a source, to dissatisfaction. Task was made easier after switching to my EC01, as I should have used from the start. Also made me pay closer to attention to the XHP70 lights out there, like the T2.
Please continue to offer Champagne colored anodizing on models going forward! The pink is also really great. I’d love to see a desert digital camo as well as a teal/navy.
I am not exactly a fan of the new switch either. OTOH, I can run it flawlessly in heavy winter gloves and that can’t be said about a number of flashlights! The dim LED and goofy blue light are nothing compared to having something that functionally works! Only time will tell the answer to the ultimate question for me. Will it last and not become an avenue for water to wreck the light? From my perspective everything else about the switch can be forgiven.
I believe the black switch was first utilized in Sofirn’s C8 variants dating back to 2017, and isn’t opaque.
There are plenty of examples as to how it appears, from any number of the Sofirn, Wurkkos, or Astrolux models equipped with it. Green/red? See a late model SC31 Pro, or an SC31/B for blue. There should be no doubt it does a better job of conveying information than the tiny dot on the current switch. And with the possibility of two pairs of emitters, like on the LT1, it can make distinctions not only with color, but position.
It’s had a few years to prove itself, in appearance, and performance, and whatever critiques is may have received haven’t risen to any level of prominence, as far as I recall.
By contrast, TS21 is months short from being on the market for a full year, and the v2 even less, with notes about its button’s impromptu color mixing and shortcomings as a beacon in threads such as this one.
Would the low setting shine through enough to see? Can’t use the high setting because of high drain. It’s going to take more than just a switch change to make it right. The drain issue and blue light flashing randomly also need to be addressed.
. Came across this thread, got the Champagne 4000k TS21, now having a lot of fun with Anduril. I was very disappointed with the TS21 rapid step down at first, but now that the temp has been set to 60, it is night and day better.
For those not ready with manual: with light on, double click to Turbo level, then 10 clicks to set Manual Memory. Now your TS21 will always start with one click at Turbo, regardless of last level. I love manual memory, makes life so simple, just like an old flashlight lol.