RIP! I finally blew up my Proxxon...and just blew up my new one too. (Post #31)

That’s a new phrase for me. I’m assuming it’s similar to “things went south”?

Just finished reading a series of books by C J Box. It’s a phrase used by the main character Joe Picket who is a Wyoming game warden, who deals with unruly hunters that are armed and testy.

I pull out my cordless grinder way more than I had expected to when I bought it… it happens to be a dewalt, but any decent one will do.

And to respond to your question way back about drill versus die grinder: the drill’s bearings aren’t really good with sideways loads, so you’re going to cook the heck out of them fast.

If drill is made for using in stand, and it has metall housing, bearings are good enough for milling. And they are much better (hundred times) that bearings in proxxon or dremel.

I’ve heard Brits say “Gone West.” Not sure what this has to do with anything. Never mind.

A Proxxon cost $200, and a drill cost $20. Which should I burn out?

If you buy drill for $200, it will never burn.

For the small tasks I have, though they might over stress a rotary tool, they don’t have any ill effects on a $20 drill.
I know there are all kinds of proper solutions that are superior, but it makes no sense for an apartment dwelling, kitchen table modder to even think of owning all the proper tools such as drill presses, band saws, commercial angle grinders etc. the only reason I own a drill is because I needed to drill a few holes so I could hand a couple pictures. Sure, I’d love all that proper stuff, but I have to be realistic and get by at a basic level.

I have been allowed the luxury of 1 square meter in the living room, and another square meter in the bedroom. The bedroom meter2 allows having a small drillpress, an angle grinder and a tiny bandsaw, accessable for a small time-slot in the day. I’m a lucky man :slight_smile:

My 2 old Foredoms were picked up for a song when a knife maker went out of business. Had to rebuild both, but would do it again. Bearings are cheap and so are brushes.

Sounds like you are as lucky as I. I’m a middle aged man with wife and daughter and I get 1 square meter in the corner of my mothers bedroom. Last month we had put in an offer on a house that had a 14x 16 ft finished work room in the basement. The deal fell through, so I’m back to my corner :stuck_out_tongue:

http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-mini-bench-top-cut-off-saw-62136.html

Less than 100W, 10600rpm - it will blew up faster than proxxon/dremel if you are going to cut thick copper.

It’s all about letting the tool do the work at it’s pace, not yours. It also helps if you match the tool power to the job, but a small tool will do a big job fine if you give it enough time and don’t push it harder than it wants to go. If you’re gentle and it still breaks then you need a better tool or bit/blade for the tool. I once cut off a heat-stuck hardened steel wheel bearing race on the side of the road with a cordless drill and a small diamond wheel. Took me about an hour and 4 batteries at the low drill speed but it worked because I didn’t push it.

Phil

Hard steel and copper is different things. Copper is very ductile, when you try to cut it with abrasive disc used edge of wheel don’t go away and new ones don’t open. After few time disc edge have small pieces of copper inside itself and it is not able to cut.
Diamond tools are not good for this job too.
Saws, discs and mills with tooth are much better, but your tool should have enough torque for this operation. If tool uses 100w 10k rpm motor with 2inch disc - this means there is no torque at all, neverless will you push hard or no - it will stop immediatly.

so i have been looking for a tool for modding flashlights (like cutting the body, shaping the driver / pad etc.) and came across this cheapo:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A8DXKXS/ref=s9_simh_gw_g469_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0Z5KAYNAX0YTVD21AE50&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop

would this work for what the OP wants? if you already have the attachments and such, i also saw this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MUSLCC/ref=s9_simh_gw_g469_i2_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=0Z5KAYNAX0YTVD21AE50&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2437869742&pf_rd_i=desktop

Metabo is the best but expensive.

get a decent small bench vise and a couple of hacksaws with different pitch blades. I can cut thin pipe to 2in thick steel with the 3 saws I have. As others have said, abrasive disks are the very last think you want to use to cut copper. You can get away with them in alu if it’s not too thick, but you’re going kill your tools if you keep trying on copper that thick. My general rule of thumb is that it’s almost always easier to cut away bulk using a saw, then refine with lathe/mill/file as necessary.

Hope you`ll enjoy this

Russian tool is heavy duty one (waterproof, rainproof dust proof).

But it is seems like it has rather small RPMs so it is not suitable for metal/glass engraving attachments.

If one day it will have simple onboard on/off switch and variable speed control + direct wall cord plug it could be even more interesting.

This is power of a drill/mill in a hand.