Yeah, that holster looks like it'll work very well. I'll add it to the next order I place with IOS, thanks.
@Jeansy The battery tube really shouldn't have been machined with such a small diameter, but it's such a thin wall flashlight to begin with, I guess they decided not to do it. I'd say if the F12 catches on, it wouldn't suprise me if Ric has his manufacturer update the tube, he's known for improving his items in the past.
Lastly, for whatever it's worth, the only 18650's I have that work in the F12 are as follows:
Ah so some do fit, I doubted any protected would fit but then mine are all large cells like the SenyBors. If the lights got low volts cut-off I'll be happy anyway, guess I'll have to test it out...
Richie: I'll test all my cells if my damn F12 ever gets here. Suggest we both send a note to Ric at CN and Hank at IOS telling them to provide information on cell compatibility. I might have hesitated on buying this light if this was known before hand. Or perhaps as you said, they might change for future production.
too hot to hold eh? well that's definitely not good..I didn't think 62 C was that hot..of course i've never done readings of temps on lights so I really have no clue..lol
@Jeansy, Thank you for the tests you've been performing, but please be careful not to over heat the battery. I'm not an expert on exactly what the temperature range can be on these batteries, but I do know the battery starts to absorb heat from the body very quickly on high mode.
Yeah I was a little worried about the heat that's why I terminated at 10min. Not sure what is safe for short duration, that's prob pushing it. I think holding the light would transfer a bit more away so on a cool evening in hand, I think 10min on high would be fine then.
yeah it is..it didn't register how hot it was..looked on-line and 120F is considered scalding..I just remember Foy's 200F tests..140F didn't sound too bad lol..
On a side note, I'm also not going to knock Ric for the high power driver he installed...LOL. We're BLF and he knows most of us want super high power in most any light we purchase, and that's exactly what he did with his version of the F12. As I've said before, you always have medium mode.
But either vendor's version you purchase, and both are great vendors, it's an excellent light and sure to be a big hit when your friends see the looks of it.
Also, you know this light is only available as a 3-mode, which is great for me. But if you know how to do simple solder, removing the "BB" size bit of solder on one of the stars, and replacing it on one of the others, you can experiment with different modes. Likely one of the other modes may be, HIGH-LOW-Strobe, and one of the others may be, H-M-L-SOS-Strobe and so forth. You can even leave the modes as is, but remove one of the 7135 chips from Ric's version and have a HIGH output somewhere inbetween the version Ric sells and Hanks version over at IOS.
It's a fun light to have and play with should you be so inclined
So the CNQG one should do approx 800lm, 240lm, 40lm
The Intl-outdoor approx 600lm, 180lm, 30lm
This is just rough looking at the graph on matchs results, does it sound about right? I guess OTF prob 15% less due to OP reflector losses and normal glass lens?
Hey Jeansy, I have a Cree MC-E/P7 dive light that was rated at 900lumens, and found to be 600 lumens OTF approximately . The F12 even with the NW tint is putting out more than that seeing with my eyes. I'll give my lux meter a try later today, but it was my impression it should easily do 750 OTF, but of course that's very subjective.
