This looks awesome. It may be enough to convince me to learn to flash my board.
flashing is just the top end mod, you can simply put it on the battery as always ON
If I do it that way will it affect the tint of my light?
the Aux LEDS mainly light outside the beam angle of the regular LEDs and only with very low brightness
you won’t see it at distances above 20cm even on Moonlight
Awesome, thanks. I will be ordering.
Edit; posting my final changes now that Lexel has replied:
cfg-fw3a.h ADD TO END
same as any other Aux HWdef, but you need to disable the optic nerve
//#define VISION_PIN PB2 // pin 7, optic nerve
//#define ADC_CHANNEL 0x01 // MUX 01 corresponds with PB2
//#define ADC_DIDR ADC1D // Digital input disable bit corresponding with PB2
#define ADC_PRSCL 0x06 // clk/64
// has a lighted button
#define AUXLED_PIN PB2 // pin 7
Got one of my dark blue 0.3mA aux boards installed today. Compiled a hex file with aux support and the latest Anduril features like manual memory, two level lockout brightness, soft reset, etc. The version with MCU support isn’t the most simple option but I did want the ability to turn it off.
Looks really good contactcr! I think I will end up going green. I just can’t decide between 0.3mA and 0.15mA.
I sorta regret getting my glow gasket since I’ve seen this. xD
Nice… I seriously need to learn how to flash firmware.
Not terribly difficult once you have the software installed and the hardware to do a flash. I hear most people have more trouble getting the Windows drivers sorted for the USBasp. I use Linux, and it is a breeze.
What kind of computer do you have available?
The more difficult part here is modifying the Anduril code before flashing it. I haven’t tried that yet, but I have 2 Lexel boards coming. I will see if I can write up a guide or something once I do one successfully.
I use Windows 10 to do the flashing.
I compiled my own but you don’t need to, Lexel supplied some hex files too.
Any single thing is not hard but there are quite a few tedious steps involved when it’s all added together.
For windows drivers use this guide for example
you need a program Zadig to do the job
It is working on Win 10 without any problems after you got the Powershell.exe and arvdude.exe in the same location as the HEX files
I use this command for my Bistro drivers
./avrdude.exe -c usbasp -p t25 -u -Uflash:w:bistro-TAv1-OTSM-HD-attiny25.hex -U lfuse:w:0xd2:m -U hfuse:w:0xde:m -U efuse:w:0xff:m
It was no big deal to get it also running as External Tool in Atmel Studio 7
Just an avarage Windows 10 setup. Should do the job. I still need to buy all the pins and connectors to do the flashing. And I want to buy a third FW3A to use as Gunea pig for this project. What hardware do I need for this particular project? Preferably something I can buy off AliExpress.
How “bright” would .3mA with green LEDs be considered? I’m looking for bright enough to not be overpowering if I am using moonlight, but bright enough it can be enjoyed still in normal indoor lighting. If that is even possible that is.
Edit: Actually if anyone has a turboglow green gasket. I’m looking for a similar brightness to that at full brightness. It looks vibrant even under indoor lighting, but isn’t overpowering in the dark.
“0.5”mA level in any color should be enough to overpower indoor light level, but it depends on much how much you want them to have
Since green is the most efficient .3 in green is the maximum I would go in that color with what you describe. My .3 dark blue is easily visible under normal indoor lighting.
You don’t mention it but when it’s visible with normal ambient indoor light it also tends to be a bit bright for something like a night stand if that kind of thing bothers you. If not, I think .3 is probably a good value for green.
I do tail stand it on the nightstand. How bright would you say your dark blue is in the dark compared to moonlight?
Edit: Now that I think about it, the ideal thing would be for someone to come out with a crenelated bezel. Then I could head stand it and just let a light green glow come out.
So, when controlled by the MCU is Low always the same no matter what brightness you choose when you order the board? What I mean is would a 0.3mA board and a 0.5mA board both have the same Low setting when controlled by the MCU?
IIRC when using MCU and low/high the low setting is PWM controlled so there would be a difference depending on what you use for the “high” resistor.