Some not so great news, the “2nd batch” MCPCB’s are a bit different:
I guess this leaves us with Noctigon 3XP (then you need to remove the screw on the shelf that prevents twisting) or maybe scratching away new hookup pads that line up better. Is that possible? Can you guys tell from the traces if that’s safe to do?
/\ . That sux…. . 
Mtn. boards….
Mtn boards are impossible to source now cause of dragon driver fanboys. I really want to reuse the stock board cause it has that dimple in the bottom. I guess I could try to make my own on a different pcb.
You don’t think I can just scrape a spot on the PCB where Lexel’s openings are and solder to that instead?
Yep it will work…… have to alter the Aux board for the anode contact clearance so the Aux board will sit flatter, still should be do-able…
I was just going to scrape the anode a bit closer too unless Lexel confirms that area is safe to open up. I would guess not though?
Watching, I have new board version.
The Mtn. boards will work, if ya got them. Do you really “need” a stinking anti-rotation hole!
I did transfer thru the sink into the Mtn. board, then drilled and flat bottomed the anti rotate hole, into the Mtn board just like the new gen board, but you need the right tools to do it.
I scraped a new negative and extended the positive closer to the edge. Next, I sucked up all the old solder on the pads to get it flat. After taking the second pic I ended up touching up the LED wires to get the aux board to sit a bit more flush. I basically re wet the solder while pressing down on the aux board. Kind of a pain and makes me not want to ever open this one up again, but it works.
This one is red+orange 0.5mA
I think Red/Orange might be a popular color for the Copper FW3C 
(that’s what I went with too)
contactcr, could you possibly post a photo comparing the high and low modes for your blue aux board? My goal is to be able to enjoy it on my desk on high, but also have it facing me on my nightstand at night, which requires a very low level.
Thanks!
Yes MTN and both versions of the Noctigon should work
you can always move the negative lead position to another spot like contractor did
My phone is smarter than me so the pictures always come out brighter than real life
It looks something like this when it’s very dark and your eyes are night adjusted. This pic was taken in the morning and there was some light in the room. With that light I can barely tell it’s on unless i’m standing over it even though the camera picks up plenty of light. Those other two are tritium vials inside of translucent rubber switches.
TLDR; on low it’s perfect for night stand. on high it’s perfect for your desk with ambient light.
That is perfect with the trit comparison. Thanks so much!
ContractCr, would you post a link to your modified hex file? I’d like to use the new Andruil features along with my aux board similar to your setup. The programming is beyond me. I’m assuming the wiring is the same as Lexel’s instructions.
Thanks!
It’s also to consider the Aux LEDs give most of the light away from the main LED beam angle, so a photo like this will show them dimmer than they are in 30° angle from the top
I think that’s ok, though. I generally have my nightstand light facing me.
Lexel’s board in the middle… I had 2 Red/Orange it was the (dimmer of the 2) the .3mA
I’ll be needing a couple more in the near future…
Kawi, in this photo, is it on the high setting?
BTW, the trits in the others look awesome!