The most basic of options. I got mine earlier this week.
He builds these by hand, and I’m not sure what other work he does in addition to this stuff, but it can take a little while to get them made. Shipping was way faster than the stuff I order from China.
I haven’t had the time to install mine yet, and I am waiting on some MCPCBs and emitters to swap in before I install them anyway… but they look beautiful. Top notch design and work as far as I can tell. I’m excited to see them lit up.
Normal German priority air mail
Lexel, I received my boards Saturday, thank you for making these available for us!
They’re so bright (not always a good thing but not complaining, it’s beautiful), if I want to convert one to non stableized do I just pull the LDO chip and C2 and add a resistor to the pad?
Edited to answery own question:
To convert to a high/low configuration you pull both the LDO and the voltage reset monitor, add a resistor to the pads near the LDO and bridge the pads under the voltage monitor.
yes v1.7 need to loose both to go to high/low
Had a little trouble removing the optical resistor, and I think I may have ripped the pad off… Any alternatives for getting it hooked up the the MCU?
Using v1 boards I believe
Direct to MCU leg?
Thank you good sir! That should work.
I forget how tiny these things are… My hands are not as steady as I’d like, and I feel like an angry gorilla trying to perform surgery. I got impatient waiting on my triple mcpbs to arrive from China, so I’m working on reflowing the stock mcpcb with LH351Ds… I think it’s just a bad day for mods because I only got 1/3 working.
EDIT:
I guess it was just the old impatience again… I must not have allowed the solder long enough to cool because after testing again I am seeing nothing but 3 dots
Well, I got around to trying again, I had some initial success (AUX lit up nicely) and things seemed normalish, but I believe I have a short somewhere… it stopped working, then after removing the head and reinstalling it, the primary LEDs are always on if I tighten it down. They don’t seem to ramp, it is a steady output somewhere around the middle of what this light can do. The button does nothing when it is like this.
I have taken it all apart (unsoldered the AUX board so I don’t damage it) and have tried a few times with the same result.
I think my driver is either broken (too much abuse while trying to figure all of this out) or it is not seated all the way (seems likely… I can’t seem to get it ALL the way into the driver cavity). Maybe the wires I’ve soldered for my AUX board are in the way.
Does it sound like I’m on the right track?
I’m getting a hard lesson in tiny soldering, and I’m not as good as I’d hoped. I hope we’ll have a compatible driver one day so it isn’t such high stakes.
EDIT:
Tried again, replaced all my leads. This time it seems to work… mostly.
Looks like I might just be missing the lower levels… Either I did the Anduril stuff wrong (I do have AUX though), I have a problem with one or two of my 7135s, or maybe the LH351Ds don’t like moonlight… It ramps up for approximately 1.5-2 seconds before I see the light, and it seems brighter than moonlight.
EDIT2: looks like it is shorted again after tightening the bezel. It went turbo, then nothing but AUX after I pulled the battery and put it back. Maybe I should ask Neal if he’ll sell me a driver… or quit and work on something else.
Best of luck tracking down the issue. I had a similar issue except my light was stuck in a momentary mode and only came on when I held the switch down. I also had a issue with it going into turbo mode as soon as I put it back together. I ended up taking it apart, replacing the ATTiny85 chip, reflashing it with contactcr’s hex files, soldered everything in its correct spot, and got it working. I also order a few drivers from Neal just in case I do it again.
Good tips here. I did order a couple of spares from Neal, but I should try a new mcu and see if I can save this one. Thank you
Did you get your mcus from digikey?
Yep! I ordered a dozen so I could experiment with a few.
Good luck!
Any updates on version 2.0 yet?
I will place another order when v2 comes out since it doesn’t look like LVP will be implemented in FW
not arrived yet
OK, Thanks. *patiently waits 
for new type of MCPCB this should fit
v2.1 now here, should fit also 2. batch of FW3A MCPCB
of course as well Noctigon Triple
some more things like one 0603 resistor after the LDO to also lower the build brightness if desired
2 or 3 wire operation to implement also LVP+High/low
Is your board compatible with the new lumintop EDC18 ? (similar to the FW3A).
They will very likely use exactly the same MCPCB, so I think yes
but it seems the front bezel is press fit and won’t be easy to open
