I use Krytox GPL 205, a fluorocarbon grease. It’s inert and has very good lubricating properties. Works great on titanium threads too. It’s very expensive and absolutely overkill for using on flashlight threads, but you did ask for “the most advanced flashlight lube.” I have it around because I use it for other projects so I use it on my flashlights too.
Nyogel: This lube is used by Surefire, and can be purchased from Lighthound. This lube tends to change color slightly, but that should not affect it's lubrication properties. 759G/760G is tuned more for threads, 779ZC is tuned more for o-rings. Here's a good review.
Super-Lube: A cost-effective teflon-based lube that provides very smooth action. Both the grease and theoil perform well. It can be purchased from many hardware stores and online retailers, such as MSC.
NO-OX-ID:A wax-based lube with excellent anti-oxidation properties. It's been around for about 50 years.
Krytox: One of the best lubes out there. This is a fluorinated grease that is very non-reactive and is safe for just about any application. This lube works exceptionally well on Ti lights. It is available in many different varieties, and has several re-branded names. It has been discovered that the sodium nitrate additive in the anti-oxidation varieties of Krytox can reduce the wear-resistance of Krytox on Ti and bare Al. The difference is small, but it is something to make a note of. It can be purchased from Amazon or directly from a DuPont distributor.
Nano-Oil: A highly-recommended lube by forum members. The lube uses oil as a carrier for nano-particles that are designed to act as a bearing surface. Also comes in a grease. Mobil-1 Red Synthetic Grease: Highly recommended by several forum members. Performs well, and is very cost effective, but has a noticeable odor.
In a device a lubricant’s purpose could be to make movement smooth, to reduce friction. However, that is not the case with flashlights. The lubricant in a flashlight enhances waterproofing around the seals, and protects the o-rings from breaking. The threads need some lube as well to reduce wear and tear, however the lowest possible coefficient of friction is not by default best.
The issue for O-rings is ’like dissolves like”.
Some O-rings are Silicone > using silicone grease will make them swell and distort over time. Silicone is common in flashlights.
Some O-rings are neoprene based. These tend to be a bit stiffer and more rugged. Silicone is great for these. Any petroleum based lube will slowly ruin them.
What may be good for an O-ring may not be as effective on metal threads for lube. Good old axle grease is probably great for that but would tend to be messy and contaminate other stuff.
Some of the more expensive lubes will work on either and generally indicate that in the instructions.
On a surface light….no big deal if you get it wrong.
On a scuba light….REALLY BIG DEAL when you get it wrong.
This x100. The grease is there to fill in any miniscule gaps and repel water, plus preventing dry rot. Any lubrication is just icing on the cake.
FWIW I’ve used Dow 33 (a silicone/lithium grease) on lights in the past and never had issues. Whether the silicone orings being static prevented noticeable damage or that they were actually nitrile, urethane, etc. I can’t say.
Superlube has many different products, not all of which are silicone based/containing.
Edit: Just checked on what I assumed was Nyogel from Mtn-Electronics and discovered it was actually silicone grease. Have used it for MANY lights since purchase and never had any issue. Very sticky/viscous and repels water well based on what a pain it is to clean off my fingers after applying it.
The more I think about it I doubt most lights use silicone o-rings due to their worse wear resistance and higher price AFAIK. For dive lights/cameras that might be different as I think they compress better and those are items that I assume won’t be opened as often? Silicone is also very safe for medical/health uses.
The last time I removed an o-ring from an AR lens used in an S2+ flashlight, the o-ring adhered to the lens. It was very hard to remove and I scratched lens removing it. And the side of the o-ring next to the lens was damaged. I was still able to used the green o-ring, but it was probably damaged due to using a silicone based lubricant on the o-ring. Or maybe it was due to the AR coating?
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I use this White Lithium grease. Its cheap available at most Hardware or auto parts stores in spray can or tube for $5.00 us.
Just put a little on and wipe it to a very thin coat.
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It’s complicated….unfortunately. If it’s colored (not black) and kind of soft and floppy it’s probably silicone.
Most scuba lights don’t use silicone O-rings. The lights have to be opened after every dive and the batteries charged. They get used hard, a lot.
OTOH, much more expensive dive cameras and strobes often do use silicone O-rings. (Damned if I know why.) You get ‘special’ grease with the purchase of these devices. That’s what I tend to use for other silicone O-rings. A little goes a long way.
I’m not sure what the decisions are at the corporate and engineering level for these decisions. I have a somewhat jaded perspective and think that capital decisions are often not in the best interests of the consumer.