Securitylng? Really? SRK Clone from ebay - Unboxing, initial thoughts and amp draws - Updated with tear down photos.

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This is simplest SRK driver I ever seen. 3 LED parallel and driven by single MOSFET.
Those R050 NOT SENSE RESISTORS they just current limiting resistors to fool us. this is a direct MOSFET drive design.

Mr. OL, I know you gonna mod it.

If me, ill mod driver following way:

8x7135 for each LED. 3 branches. then drive all from stock MCU (Pin7)
This will require additional PCB or stripboard piece to solder. I think there is enough space there. or 3 pcs of 8x7135 board slave

Thermal mod - you’re the copper expert… another great mod coming soon…

drive 3 7135 boards from stock MCU. remove FET & resistors.
then no button problem.

Thanks, I probably will just go with a DrJones master and two regular KD slaves then and eliminate the stock driver all together. I prefer his ramping modes.

My first SRK died 20 days after arrival. Work called so had to leave town, thus the light went back for full refund as I had nothing for spares. Refund was in 4 days after Amazon paid for UPS return :slight_smile:

The “lottery” is easier to deal with for us new guys when it does not have to go back to China for any reason, no?

You might find this interesting. Cheaper and with XM-L2.

https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/23479


Thanks for the teardown OL. :)

Mod thread is here, for this light.

The Other Ebay US sourced clone came in the mail today. Mini Review here.

Well, My order came today.

Did it come from Amazon - NO
Did it arrive in 3 Days - NO
Did it also come in a gift box - NO
Did it have 3 XM-L2’s NO
Was it a “Securitylng”? - NO (Skyray King)

Am I happy? NO, NO, NO and NO.

Both OldLumens and mine was ordered from “chinavally” and shipped from “epathdirect”

That Sucks! Well, it shows just how trustworthy that seller is. Hard way to learn that. Are you going to send it back or keep it?

Mine has a 2 mode driver with hidden strobe. That could be nice but the so called high and low are not very different. Also on high it is about half as bright as my FandyFire Warrior.
Quick clicks cycle thru high, low and off. Click and hold from either high or low sends it into strobe. Here are some identifying pics.


A deep scratch inside the lens?

Doesn’t anybody ever wash their hands when they put these together?

Is this enough of a clue as to which driver it could be?

Actually all this is now moot. While I was writing this, I had the light running to see if, as it ran down, all the cells were making contact. I thought that perhaps only 1 or 2 cells out of 4 were connected. If that were the case, then as it ran down, only the cells being used would run down.
I just looked over to notice that the light was very dim. I measured all 4 cells and they were all 4.1V or higher. My guess the driver blew.
What a total piece of crap!

It looks like there's damage there, on that photo of the driver, where it seats into the lip of the head.

You should be able to get a refund from ebay/paypal. Sorry to hear all the problems.

I got mine today too, it's the same as O-L's. Cool white XML2s. H-HM-L (mid is not nearly low enough!), press&hold for strobe, press&hold again for SOS.

Output-wise, it doesn't fare too badly against my unmodded genuine NW SRK from CNQG.

The C8 from the same seller is not what's shown in the pics - 16mm star instead of 20mm, came with another cool white XML2, pics showed an old XML. Plastic lens, aluminum XR-E reflector (the good one), next-mode driver (of course). Could have been worse for $10, I guess.

Mine was wrapped in bubble wrap and in a sealed baggy. Did yours come in a retail box like OL’s?

I am happy to report that my example arrived today and it is identical to the one Old-Lumens received .

Wondering whether I should bridge the resistors . It seems like a simple mod that adds a lot of power .

Decisions , decisions .

I received my three XML light

And the dern thing is ever so bright

Should I leave it alone ?

Or mod it as shown ...

I'm just worried I won't do it right

Bridging the resistors isn't a hard thing to do. You don't even have to remove wires. There's enough slack to be able to pop out the driver, bridge them and pop it back in.

So if I wanted to bridge the resistors , but not take it quite as far as you did , what could I do ?

What would simply removing one of the existing resistors do ?

Removing one of the resistors would reduce performance. Stack/add extra resistors or bridge the resistor pads will increase current consumption.

You don't need to bridge the resistors if you want it turned up to 11, just move the LED+ wire over to the pad that feeds the resistors, where the array of vias coming through from the positive plane on the battery side.

If you don’t want it as hot as I did, you would need to add or change resistors, to lower the resistance. These other guys can better recommend which resistors.