Different crenelation on the head, smoother on the JM07, square on the JM07-PRO.
Different number of fins: 5 vs 9 or or if want to count the last as a fin too, 6 vs 10
A raised up ring after the JM07's head, which is machined with very small cuts, the JM07-PRO doesn't have this.
The tailcap design around the part where the rubber cover is. The JM07 is simpler, the JM07-PRO has a extra rise portion just like the outer edge of the tailcap near the rubber boot.
It's hard to find much use with a reflector size in between a C8 and P60. For me the next viable step up from the P60 would be the C8 size. I figure all I'm doing with a size in between is compromising portability. But that's merely a personal preference. When I got my first C8 I was surprised how compact the head still was regarding my expectations.
If my presumptions are correct that the reflector is between the C8 and P60, being closer to C8 anyway, than I think it's an interesting option since I do not need the tight hotspot of the C8 neither the relatively floodiness of the P60. The C8 gives a big spill anyway.
4.22V 26650 in the light, 2.44A. Tight regulation, cell @ 3.92V also gave me that figure.
4.338kHz PWM in med and low. 0.75A and 0.115A respectively.
61.9 lux ceiling bounce with 2.44A and remember this is a neutral white emitter! JM05 gives 58.5 lux with 2.6A and that is a Cool white XM-L. heh.... But the thing is, JM05 has unmeasurable PWM, and wrapping the front of the light with a black T-shirt confirms it. (my ears are sensitive to 18kHz)
213k @ 8.17m, 14.2k cd uncorrected. Should be ~ 15.6k cd corrected. This has a mild OP reflector. Remember, the JM05 has a slightly bigger head (42mm vs 48mm) and nets me 17k corrected. So this light can throw.
One more thing, this light heat sags quite a bit slower than the JM05.....even though this light has smaller mass than the JM05. I guess the heatsinking from LED to pill to host is quite a bit better.
I think you will like it. The finishing is no-nonsense matt. It looks serious and feels serious. And of course you are loading a 26650 shell in there it definitely looks serious.
There are many quality branded flashlights like Fenix and Jetbeam that look and feel like high quality collectibles. High quality HA. This light is like the L2T matt, it's like a tool that begs to be used daily, that you won't feel afraid to have it scratched. That's the diff....
The tint seems not to be 3C though, seems to be the 4 range.... not really 5000k but 4500k. Warmer than my Dereelight T6 3C and also the Xeno E03 3C (probably not T6)
Thanks for the details. The fact that you describe it as a tool begging to be used makes me very happy I ordered one. That is exactly what I look for in a light and...I love 4500K.:) Now I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas morning! :)
I must have missed something you've said about the jm07 driver - are you implying it has measureable pwm?
I'm also wondering about the modes - they offer to versions on the intl-outdoor site, but I seem to recall a post about being able to turn disable/enable the flashing modes? I don't have much need for them, but will certainly order the light w/ them if I can keep 'em outta the way unless needed.
I also noticed from the tabao links in an older thread that there's an extension tube available, maybe I'll ask hank before ordering. although...if using 26650s, it would probably just live in on a shelf...
edit:also wondering if the big head version has surfaced anywhere with an xml instead of mce
I also got this light last week. It has a good (neutral) tint for outside use. Soft hotspot with a a big bright spill. Not too much a thrower but good for walking in nature. Build quality is great. Yes, feels like a professional tool. I like it more than my Fenix or 4sevens lights. And I really like the size of the tube and how head fits to body.
I had a problem in beginning with poor tailcap contacts, but I cleaned tube ends with sand paper and tightened tailcap couple of times, has been working ok now.
I also got KingKong 26650 cells, which seem to be ok. And the charger (smart?) what intl-outdoor sells as package. Works great too, and it also can be give usb power output (to cellphone etc).
I think I made the right choice with this. Thanks for your suggestions Hikelite and 2100.
Yes, it is at 4.338kHz. Wrapping a black t-shirt over the front also yields an approx 4kHz sound freq so it's correct. (forgot the name of the phenomenon though, but it has to do with how the light On/Off hitting the black surface and causing localised heating-expansion and cooling-contraction that gives you this sound wave)
very interesting - my recent mod w/ this driver has very audible whine on mid level but it is hardly noticeable with the plastic bezel, retainer and rubber head cover removed (all black) - maybe a similar phenomenon...
Could anybody please take a photo of the beams of this 3c and any 1a side by side, under same settings and daylight white balance. I really like neutrals but wouldn’t want a light too orange either.
I got mine today and it is quite impressive. It has a great tint. Unfortunately the switch is acting erratic. I would have liked a more substantial switch for a brute like this. I haven't tried the spare yet but I have cleaned and tightened with no improvement. It is also quite (too) sensitive. Nobody likes a sensitive brute. :)
EDIT: I've got the switch sorted out. I trimmed half the nipple off the boot. (ouch!) It would actually be depressing the switch if I had the tailcap too tight.
I don't like how the tail is put together. I think could be improved. First by adding dimples to the larger aluminum spacer so you can tighten it independent of the inner brass ring. The brass ring need BIGGER dimples (or slots) as well.
The problem I was having was because the aluminum spacer doesn't have a hard stop. In smaller lights this seems to work ok, but not with this one. That spacer needs to bottom out against metal eventually instead of just pushing more and more on the flange of the boot. A small washer, slightly thinner than the boot flange should solve that. Otherwise you never get a solid stop when you tighten the tail and if you keep tightening, you'll possibly make the switch flaky.
And... that's all I have to complain about. :p This light is awesome. Now that I sorted out the tail, I need to investigate the head more. I do like seeing a screwed down 20mm star though. :)
That was just the problem what I also had. I did cut off 0,5 mm from rubber which presses the switch with a carpet knife. (Piece seen in picture center of right washer). Then I put the (left washer on picture) first on bottom of tailcap. It actually did fit perfectly and even has extra sealing, right one was a bit too thin. Now the light works great. :)
I'm not really set up for beamshots. Are you concerned with the tint or of the beam shape? The beam is VERY similar to an XP-G in a P60 reflector, almost identical. Although 2100 is thinking that the tint is warmer than the 3C bin should be, I think it may be possible that it is a 3C, but it would be right on the edge of 4B. It is JUST warm enough to not be mistaken for "cool".
pumpuli: I'm glad you fixed yours. I actually haven't found (or looked) a washer yet. I'm just being careful on how much I tighten it.
I'm really digging this light, I just haven't had a chance to get it out in the real world yet to confirm how awesome I think it is. :)
