Shadow JM26 Driver (Place for more AMC7135)

Anyone else interested in the stars, they look like nanjg mode selection stars….

Which they are not. They are jsut bling factor. The center golden part of the circle, the stars and the masked part of the circle are all one same surface for the positive contact which leads through the vias on the other side of the board where the red wire is soldered.

I couldn’t get the driver out. I need to get a good tweezers or something as the disc is too tight.

So you have 3.04A total in the design. I would recommend adding 2 350's or 2 380's, anymore won't do you much good - just verified that on a modified Crelant 7G9 - I dropped 4.56A (measured 4.50A) down to 3.80A, dropped 2 380 7135's, and the ceiling bounce test saw no difference at all. In theory, the XML's reach their peak at 3.5A, but I go for 3.7-3.85A, assuming there is some loss going to the LED.

Buzz out those spots to see if they are trully parallel with the rest of the mounted 7135's, if so, use them, measuring after will confirm they are soldered ok.

Slacker. There is no question at all you should be adding the full compliment of 3 chips. If your not happy you can always remove 1 or 2 chips. We need to have before and after night shots as well. Thanks.

Do you think 3.8A to 4.1A will make a difference in brightness? I'm wondering how Match's results (

) work in the real world myself. He shows a peak starting at 4.1A, but very little gain above 3.8A or so. Haven't come across any corraborating evidence in real flashlight tests.

Seriously I would try one at a time and check for heat build up. I have no idea what the heat sinking is like on this flashlight. The hotter the LED the less efficient. Before and after shots with the same camera settings will give a good idea whether the light is working better or not. 3 amps is the sweet spot for output and battery life. Good luck on your mission.

Those 38M 7315 are of course 380mA chips. The 350mA ones are 35"x", so the first two digits are that tell you the rating.

There are empty pads, look at that board, no need for staking.

Looks like there is room for a 4th chip, the ground wire is soldered to the pad where one of the pins should be. I don't know about the clearance.

Those stars don't look like any connections to anything, just unmasked copper (gold plated), esthetics only.

Here’s the driver of my Shadow SL3

That's 4560mA. You have exactly 50% more current, but I doubt you have 50% more brightness compared to 3040mA.

I initially thought you soldered those extra 4 chips yourself, but did you?

No, this is how the SL3 comes. It is 4.5A as standard.
Do you think it’s possible to stack chips to increase the current?

Yes, it definitely is. So all you would have to do is stack a chip on top of every current chip and you will get a 9 amp one. :)

Yes it's possible to stack some more chips.

Sorry I looked only at the driver and I didn't realize you have written "Shadow SL3", I thought it was the JM26 driver.

Anyway, as I was suspecting there are 4 empty places on the JM26's driver, not 3.

oh man

i might have to buy an sl3

that’s the best news i’ve heard in awhile

Great news, thanks :slight_smile:
So can I stack any number of chips in any position? Like just one chip anywhere, or an extra chip on each chip?


Any number on any position (of the 12).

Great, thanks :bigsmile:

Wow, maybe making a 9 amp SL3 is easier than we thought. >)

It is, but it’d be rough on the cell, can king Kong inr’s dole out 10a?

Edit, its my birthday in February, I think I’ll be ordering an sl3 and ten 380 chips or so….

I think that’s more than recommended (2C?), and I wouldn’t make a habit of it w/ anything but IMR, or similar…

edit: so where’s the best price on SL3?