Shadow JM26 Driver (Place for more AMC7135)


So, I’ve just bought the Shadow JM26 and when I opened it up, I saw that the driver holds 8xAMC7135 (2.8 A), BUT there’s place for 3 4 more! Should I add another one, will it work? (Or maybe more than 1) :bigsmile:




Do it!

Fine, I will! How many? :bigsmile:

First I have to buy some, I have none at home and they don’t sell those in Sweden so I will have to order. It might take a while before they arrive :frowning:

How did you get the driver out?
Would stacking chips on the existing chips work?

Hmmm... What is the diameter of that driver? But, yes add some more chips!

Looks like the top 2 spots are the only ones with enough clearance. Whats the other side look like?

I used a tweezer for the whole process. Unscrew and then lift the driver up, it’s easy as pie:

Dunno about stacking, but it is really necessary? You could replace them all with 380 mA version and you’ll get 4180 mA :open_mouth:

Yeah, I will order a bunch.

Driver diameter is about 28 mm (~1.1 inch)

FastTech seems like a good place to get them, as they sell them in quantities of 10 for cheap. I have a few dozen coming my way.

Thanks for the reply and pics :slight_smile:
I have an SL3 i might open up :slight_smile:

Does the "38M" designation not indicate the 380 mA version of these chips?

texas shooter:
Clearance is not a problem :slight_smile:

OK, thanks I will look it up! But as I need some 26650 too, I might buy from intl-outdoor. They use Singpost on packages with tracking number, which takes just a few days to arrive in Sweden.
I ordered the JM26 from there, and here’s how fast I got it:
2012-12-26 15:06 —> Left Singapore
2012-12-30 13:57 —> Arrived in Sweden

I dunno what FastTech uses, it’s great if they use Singpost or HKP though.

No problem! :slight_smile:

Chicago X
I don’t know actually, I’ve also been thinking about that. Can someone else confirm this? Would be good to know, so that I know what to buy. I’m not at home so I haven’t got my DMM…

I will have a look inside my SL3 and post pics later. The SL3 is 4.5A, so it will be interesting to see how they differ, and might help in knowing what to do to get more power :slight_smile:

So jealous.

And yeah, 7135's are so cheap that it doesn't really matter where you buy them.

Ah, I never noticed that. Looking at the pics on intl-outdoor, that does seem to be correct.

Update: The guy living here had a multimeter! (Dunno about quality though, lol) On full it draws 3030 mA, so those are 380 mA chips indeed. I’ll probably just add one more then :bigsmile: Feels like I’m pushing the XM-L too hard at 4.2A hehe!

I wouldn’t worry about it getting too hot :wink: I mostly use it outside and it’s currently –22°C here (–7.6°F). –30°C to –40°C isn’t unusual here (–22°F to –40°F)

Anyone else interested in the stars, they look like nanjg mode selection stars….

Which they are not. They are jsut bling factor. The center golden part of the circle, the stars and the masked part of the circle are all one same surface for the positive contact which leads through the vias on the other side of the board where the red wire is soldered.

I couldn’t get the driver out. I need to get a good tweezers or something as the disc is too tight.

So you have 3.04A total in the design. I would recommend adding 2 350's or 2 380's, anymore won't do you much good - just verified that on a modified Crelant 7G9 - I dropped 4.56A (measured 4.50A) down to 3.80A, dropped 2 380 7135's, and the ceiling bounce test saw no difference at all. In theory, the XML's reach their peak at 3.5A, but I go for 3.7-3.85A, assuming there is some loss going to the LED.

Buzz out those spots to see if they are trully parallel with the rest of the mounted 7135's, if so, use them, measuring after will confirm they are soldered ok.