bit confused over here, the supfire A6 (I assume you refer to Supfire, not Supbeam) eats a 17mm driver, so that is the size you need to design for it anyway.
Do you need those HUGE switch vias, or do are they carrying current?
That is wicked cool though…gonna be one HECK of a powerhouse!
I don’t know how they come up with the names but the light I would like to rework is this Dipper It is not the prettiest light and I don’t know about that charging thing but it takes a 18650 and has a momentary switch. Worse case scenario it is a test bed for a more robust design.
The switch via’s are cause the switch mounts on the board but no current threw it.
I’m almost done with the 17mm version of the CC 4ch driver for MELD, it’ll be up in a couple hours! The one I’m doing now would be the one for the A6 (if it can be modified, otherwise any other 17mm driver side switch light) .
The SL3 driver is done and ordered.
Do I understand that this CC 4ch driver is for the side switch lights? Or the next one is for side switches? I apologize if this is obvious and I am slow. Very hot and very humid last night with no AC so I’m slower than usual. At any rate, great progress Killer!
These are all side switch drivers, to much function to work off just a tail click.
To cut down on the confusion I’m going to make a new thread for the 17 & 20 mm MELD UI drivers once I have the 17mm one finished up. I thought I could get it done last night but not quite, it will be up today.
Thx
Edit: Here are both 20 and 17mm versions of the MELD UI drivers!
Beware... those lights have the metal switch parts on the outside that look like they should be for a momentary switch, but there's a mini-clicky switch on the other side.
Dipper H33 stock driver:
I was thinking of this one-
So many of the lights that have a side switch also have a tail switch, that really bugs me.
ooh…what is that light? Interesting!
It’s that Dipper I linked in post #127. I suspect it’s going to be a bit flimsy and need some beefing up but I’m warming to using it as a test bed. I’ll have to order one but will have to wait a suitable length of time after I can get some overtime- you know how it is, some wives don’t see the $20 here $30 there as a useful application of funds.
Unless someone has actually disassembled one of those and verified otherwise, assume it's a standard mechanical clicky in there.
As long as the mechanics are there to press a button on the driver PCB, you could make a driver with a momentary switch on it without too much trouble. You’d be replacing the driver with a multi-channel one anyway, so it looks like that host could work for this application
I found it's easier to just add a momentary switch on top of the gutted clicky switch housing, instead of messing with re-using the stock switch converted to non-latching momentary.
The spacing works just perfect, so should work for any light using the same small clicky.
comfychair I think that’s exactly what ttrev3 was suggesting ;)- What am I saying? ! ?! What I meant to say was that I do not think ttrev3 was suggesting converting the switch from latching to momentary, but rather was pointing out that as long as the plunger was already present and the driver was getting a full-fledged replacement, there was no call for doing anything special - just place a through-hole momentary switch at the appropriate location on the new driver PCB and you’re done.
Yup…even when I sneak sub $10 purchases…she catches on quick 
Until that time you NEED the lights 
Why does that look like it needs some 3D printing and a reworked 12mm momentary switch (made oval instead of round) and voila…
Solution presents itself
You always come up with the most ingenious fixes man! Awesome
I’ve been running the numbers, looks like the 17mm version with it 1206’ sense resistors will max out about 2.25A (which is fine cause that’s about at max current for both XP-E2’s and XML-colors). I’ve went ahead and swapped the 20mm v1 to 2512’s so it should be able to do full current of the FET.
In other news it turns out there is a FW for a RGBW driver controlled by power cycle only! It’s not open source but it does exist so should be a good starting point, this is the FW I have planned when that time comes:
-if you just use it regular its a normal light with 4 modes (LL/L/M/H) and you never see the colors
-from on white a triple tap to enter color modes (enters at last saved color/level)
-once you enter color modes you have your 3 primary colors you can cycle threw with double tap
-from each primary color a triple tap enters a LUXDRV like ramp (single tap to set), ramp level is saved and will come back next time you enter that color
~5sec off reverts back to white (I want a longer reset so you can manually flash morse code in individual colors)
-from any of the color modes a quad tap enters color spectrum ramp
DrJones’ atiny85 got here today! The reflector is in route to CC and the MT Noctigon’s are ordered from RMM. I’m be purchased 2 more emitters, this time a red and a blue PH-54 (dont to come in green). I have less in the pair than I do in a single SST-90. Got them from the laser guys who get them from some projector.
Update finally!
Driver is together.
Everything I was worried about was perfect, hole size / location for the switch, overall size, clearance from body to LED+ via’s. CC has my reflector but in the mean time I’m going to try to get the light running with a set of PH-54’s (2 blue and 1 red; wasn’t available in green). The three of them cost the same as a single SST-90 so till I’m confident it’s not gonna pop emitters I’m gonna run it with no green and I may end up only swapping in my green SST and keeping the red and blue –90’s for other projects if the PH-54’s run as well as people say (they seem to be popular on LPF).The ONLY advantage I see to the SST-90’s is their MCPCB’s (MT20’s) can be soldered to the massive heatsink I built, the PH-54’s require thermal epoxy to insulate them from GND
Edit: just checked, since the entire inside of the head is anodized including the shelf where my heatsink sits the sink its self is not grounded, I could probably epoxy it in place and not need to worry about the PH-54’s MCPCB’s being insulated from the HS, I’ll have to see if its even possible to solder them, they have mask on them but I can send that off.
That is one clean, handsome looking driver, Dan!