Why does that look like it needs some 3D printing and a reworked 12mm momentary switch (made oval instead of round) and voila…
Solution presents itself
You always come up with the most ingenious fixes man! Awesome
I’ve been running the numbers, looks like the 17mm version with it 1206’ sense resistors will max out about 2.25A (which is fine cause that’s about at max current for both XP-E2’s and XML-colors). I’ve went ahead and swapped the 20mm v1 to 2512’s so it should be able to do full current of the FET.
In other news it turns out there is a FW for a RGBW driver controlled by power cycle only! It’s not open source but it does exist so should be a good starting point, this is the FW I have planned when that time comes:
-if you just use it regular its a normal light with 4 modes (LL/L/M/H) and you never see the colors
-from on white a triple tap to enter color modes (enters at last saved color/level)
-once you enter color modes you have your 3 primary colors you can cycle threw with double tap
-from each primary color a triple tap enters a LUXDRV like ramp (single tap to set), ramp level is saved and will come back next time you enter that color
~5sec off reverts back to white (I want a longer reset so you can manually flash morse code in individual colors)
-from any of the color modes a quad tap enters color spectrum ramp
DrJones’ atiny85 got here today! The reflector is in route to CC and the MT Noctigon’s are ordered from RMM. I’m be purchased 2 more emitters, this time a red and a blue PH-54 (dont to come in green). I have less in the pair than I do in a single SST-90. Got them from the laser guys who get them from some projector.
Update finally!
Driver is together.
Everything I was worried about was perfect, hole size / location for the switch, overall size, clearance from body to LED+ via’s. CC has my reflector but in the mean time I’m going to try to get the light running with a set of PH-54’s (2 blue and 1 red; wasn’t available in green). The three of them cost the same as a single SST-90 so till I’m confident it’s not gonna pop emitters I’m gonna run it with no green and I may end up only swapping in my green SST and keeping the red and blue –90’s for other projects if the PH-54’s run as well as people say (they seem to be popular on LPF).The ONLY advantage I see to the SST-90’s is their MCPCB’s (MT20’s) can be soldered to the massive heatsink I built, the PH-54’s require thermal epoxy to insulate them from GND
Edit: just checked, since the entire inside of the head is anodized including the shelf where my heatsink sits the sink its self is not grounded, I could probably epoxy it in place and not need to worry about the PH-54’s MCPCB’s being insulated from the HS, I’ll have to see if its even possible to solder them, they have mask on them but I can send that off.
That is one clean, handsome looking driver, Dan!
Thanks Johnny!
I’ve found the best way to clean up driver’s after building them is to use good solder paste to start with and not get any extra flux on them in the first place.
Does anyone know if the thermal pad’s being neutral on the SST-90 and positive on the PH-54 will causes any issues if they are both electrically connected but NOT connected to the body (GND)?
I made this for JohnnyMac (and anyone who doesnt want to go balls out with SST-90’s / PH-54’s like me)
6x 7135’s per channel is about perfect for XP-E2’s
Looking at it I’m 100% sure (from having another driver with similar 7135 spacing) that is NOT hand solderable (using an iron), it must be reflowed.
Any yes JM’s name is written in copper (and therefore plated gold)!
OMG! I freaking love it! Yeah man, I’m going to have to have you make that for me! The price you PM’d me is fine. 
Those are both like pieces of art! Nice.