I'll try to get some measurements with my copy. Seriously this light is such a joy to use in NW flavour, i haven't even gotten down to measure it!
But the BC40 is definitely a nice light as well - I mean it is now available in NW flavour too!
That would be super nice, since you have both reflectors and you can approximate in percentage the increase in lux by using a SMO reflector instead of a OP reflector.
Yes, this is true. BC40 drives the led at about 3amp. Shadow tc6 that i have, uses a 2amp driver. The 4C neutral version i got, gets about 480 OTF. the U2 that i modded it, gets about 590 OTF. Not measured the lux yet. I believe that with the 2,5amp driver version, i will get close to 30,000. I might be wrong, but i am sure it will be over 25000 lux. Always with smooth reflector.
Ric said that the first batch was with the 2amp driver, all new flashlights will be with the 2,5amp driver.
edit: just read the review from erns, i am pretty sure he got the 2amp version. Also, his ratings are somehow downrated. I will tell you when i test mine with the new driver.
OP - 232 lux @ 8.17m = 15485 @ 1m
SMO - 254 lux @ 8.17m = 16954 @ 1m
My meter under reads ergotelis and others by a bit (something like 5-10% most of the time), but we'll take it as it is. Also do note mine is neutral white, i have established from Cree's datasheet and from my DRY flashlights that it is about 13-15% drop. But anyway from the U80 CW single cell 40mm reflector class taking in 2.6A it is 60 lux from reflected ceiling bounce, this Shadow TC6 NW is 58 lux.
My light reads 1.2A 2 - cell. So not sure whether i got the 2A first batch or 2.5A driver. This is coz like i said my FF STL-V6 takes 1.35A.
BTW, my Ultrafire U80 CW SMO does 244 lux @ 8.17m. 2.6A at tailcap. 16268 @ 1m
Interesting. At this distance, my TK70 is only measuring like 83k. So that gives you an idea.
My 2A version takes 1A at the tail with full cells, 1.2A draw should be the 2.5A version I think.
Thanks for taking the readings 2100
Your meter may under read or not but the difference is obvious, it's almost the same thing. The increase in lux by using a SMO in the case of Shadow TC6 is only 9.057%
Ergotelis, I don"t think that 30,000 lux or over 25,000lux will be reached. Let's say we add a theoretical 15% to 16,954 lux thats 19,497.1 lux with T6.
Your U2 will probably do better than that but I doubt will go beyond 22,000 lux
I think it's the 2.5A driver. 1.2A x 2 = 2.4A
I cleaned out my tailcap of the U80, damn now i do 272 lux = 18k, now that's better. This is the same value that i posted in CPF budget lights some time ago. I used deoxit, apparently aluminum oxide got into the way. Always need to clean the contacts, esp for the U80 which is tactical so only that ring is in contact and not those naked threads.
For my DD lights, like the modded SR3800, it is very important to clean everything out due to high current. I cleaned the SR3800 (already cleaned last time) and deoxit it, it jumped 1 amp!
I was wondering like....WTF, my U80 only got 16k? :D
Ergotelis' readings can easily be 7-10% higher than mine. So apparently that could be like 22k with a CW.
But hey, just get a Fandyfire STL-V6 with 1.35A at the tail with 2 x 18350 and stick a U80 or C8 tube into it for shortie mode, 45-50k no problem at all. Throw's like no tomorrow even more than a HS-802. And its current regulation for that....constant brightness. Why waste time? Seriously the overall sizes are around the same ballpark of a C8.
I measured a UF-980L CW with 3.4A at the tail. Got 318 lux @ 8.17m initial 10 seconds. Dropped to 290 lux after 1 min due to heat.
318 @ 8.17m = 21k. 290 * @ 8.17 = 19k.
It looks better if you add 10% (or more) to it.
i think ill get another JETBEAM BC40 the one i gave my old man works well and on two trustfire flames its 1.65 amp at the tail cap, they work out around the same price once shipping is included.
They are square. At least on mine.
Here's a bit of comparison.
DRY, not square.
Eagletac T20C2 MKII, not square
Quark AA2, square threads
Shadow TC6, square threads
I don't like how it feels when I unscrew/screw the tailcap on the Eagletac, worse than on some Romisen cheap lights.
Sorry for the photo quality, it's not a good camera.
Your pics are great - what are you worried about?
It appears that the ET light's first thread has been a bit mangled, and there appears to be some debris in the thread valleys.
A good cleanup and inspection of all threaded areas may reveal some hidden damage.
I haven't used that flashlight much and I have always been carefull with that one because from the moment I bought it had some flimsy threads. That's a lot of grease there.
Sorry for a bit of grave digging but I have some questions I hope someone would be able to answer.
1. Would It be easy to change the emitter on this flashlight? Can you unscrew some sort of pill for easy access to the emitter?
2. Does the XTAR 18700 batteries fit in it?
3. If no on question number 2, would it be safe for a flashlight-newbie to use the unprotected Panasonic cells from intl-outdoor.com in regards to the low voltage warning. Does the warning work well?
Thanks in advance.
The new version had the LED star mounted with screws jus like the Shadow VG10. SO yes I think you could change the LED.The old version as I have had a pill which was could have been unscrewed.
The protection is as tested by 2100.
If I were to use this flashlight with unprotected cells I would sued the Panasonic NCR1850A because they are rated down to 2.5V. So no harm is done to the cells at lower voltage. And the protection warning should start at 5V official, right about when the Pannys are empty. Now it seems that on 2100's sample the strobe started at 4.6V.
I check mine and used a magnet to simulate the 2xXtar length aprox. 138mm. And it's a very tight fit. I think a bit too tight. The tails caps scres down hard. So they will work, but as described.
I use my longest cells (Callie's) with no issue in this light.
One of my faves.
Thanks for your answers.
I'm sorry, but I can't seem to find any information regarding the low voltage warning, been searching but no luck. Does it turn of, blink or just shift to a low mode?
Regarding the batteries it sounds good that longer batteries fit, but what about the thickness? I'm having problem fitting my XTAR 18700 2600 in most of my lights since they are to thick. Any similar problems with this light?
It just goes in a very fast strobe and there are no modes, just the strobe.
One cell is 2.94V and the other is 3.11V and the strobe goes on alertly. Please note I have not measured the cells under load.