Sharp Eagle ZQ-SH-01/Warsun X65 Zoomie Nut Light for XHP50, 3 x 14500 -- Now 3.7 A with KD driver

The Nut Light seems an ideal host for a compact inexpensive zoomy with a 6 volt multi die LED. The 3 x AA holder should be able to hold 3 x IMR 14500, which should be able to supply at least 3 amperes at between 10.8 and 12.6 volts. It has a large pill with space for a buck driver that should be able to convert that to well over 3 A. at well over 6 V. It comes with a long focal length (thin) 50 mm. lens that can give excellent throw, and a somewhat shorter focal length lens is available from DX in case a larger spot and more total output in throw mode is desired. The resistance in the parts of this cheap host will make less difference at the higher voltage. I have an aluminum 3 x AA carrier that fits and has lower resistance. That should work, but at this point it seems harder than it sounds.

I ordered another Nut Light, an XHP-50, an IOS LD-2D buck driver for 6 V. LED and two Maxtoch XM 26mm Copper MCPCBs.

IOS driver

With more experience, I might have found a 27 or at least 26 mm. driver or and adapter plate, but I bored a hole in one of the Maxtochs and attached and connected it to the driver.
Click for full size.

Since the driver supports the contact spring, I attached it with two bolts from my old collection of Cox 0.049 cubic inch (0.8 cc) model airplane engine parts.

My first attempt to make electrical and thermal contact only destroyed the driver.

I used a bronze spring trimmed to size to avoid the necessity of braiding.

The star was a bit smaller than the original driver, so I slotted the pill so I could compress it to fit. I filed two slots wider to make room for the bolts and nuts.

On the second attempt, I got the driver connected and working, using 24 gauge silicone insulated wire. I soldered to the plate before soldering to the driver, to keep the wire from coming loose from the driver when I was soldering to the much more massive plate. In one case, I soldered one wire to each and then the two wires together.


Since I had ordered the XHP-50 before planning how it would be used, I had to re-flow it onto the other Maxtoch. It slipped out of the tweezers, popping the dome off.

Not having the right washers, I used the old plastic ring to hold the star in the pill.

When I got it all together, I found it only worked in low mode, though it switched modes when I tested the pill outside the host with two cells.
When I got the lens on, it became obvious that some bond wires and phosphor came off with the dome.

Even my button top 14500s didn’t fit the holder that came with it without some fiddling. The protected cells are too long and the buttons are too short.
The aluminum 3 x AA carrier fits the IMR cells, both button and flat top, though protected cells are tight. I see one like it at DX but can’t find my order for it.

The second IOS LD-2D driver worked intermittently for a while and then quit. With three cells, in the flashlight, it wouldn’t switch modes and soon stopped working entirely . The description says “*Suitable for 2-3*18650, 26650 or 16340 batteries.” Clearly 14500 IMRs are equivalent. Perhaps the cooling was inadequate, because it was connected to the ground plate only at a few points. That doesn’t seem to explain not switching modes, though, because the driver must take time to heat up.


The space for the star is 27 mm. The driver is about 28 mm., but I have my pill crimped to hold a 26 mm. driver.


DX driver

It is this one:

I am making an adapter plate out of the Maxtoch, but the DX driver is crowded.

It doesn’t really have any component free area to press against the adapter plate. It would make electrical connection with pressure, but attempting to solder its top to the plate might unsolder some components.
It is (almost) one sided, so I could solder the ground ring to the plate. That might not be mechanically strong, as the copper could delaminate under spring pressure.

I soldered the ground ring to the adapter ring.

It is solidly soldered so the whole ground pad would have to delaminate at once to break under spring pressure.

It has worked for longer than the IOS driver did.

I might have preferred that it burn out the remaining pair of dice of the XHP50, but it is encouraging to have a working though lame flashlight. I have a new XHP50 on order from Richard. It is almost time to order a matched set of cells for it.

It draws 2.1 A (through a cheap multi-meter) from three IMR cells charged to a total of 12.0 V.
This driver has a serious problem (for those of us who don’t change the firmware): next mode memory. Ok for testing, but no one would want to use it.
Comparison to mildly modified TrustFire Z5

Zoomed in

This is with the original long focal length lens in the Nut and a shorter focal length DX lens in the Z5.

Both full flood and Z5 closer to wall

The Nut gets noticeably warmer, so I have hopes for it with a new XHP50.

The threads on the two ends of the battery tube don’t match, so there isn’t an easy way to make it 6 x AA. It could probably be re-threaded to fit.
The DX lens has a millimeter thicker flange and bulges out more than the stock one. The bezel ring holds it on but does not screw down all the way. Filing half a mm. off the face, beveling the inner edge a bit and putting the flat gasket in front of the lens rather than behind allows the bezel ring to screw all the way one.

Run time is less than ten minutes, limited by an AW cell that I have been using in all my highest powered 14500 lights. When it is really working, I will get a matched set. It looks like they will have to be IMRs.
It gets very warm. The part of the battery tube nearest the head gets the hottest.

New XHP50

My neighbor kindly brought over the XHP50 J2 5a that the postman had misdelivered.


Defocused to reduce dark lines,

Flood flood to similar size,

And with the shorter focal length DX lens

The wall is a bit pinkish, in case this doesn’t look like 5a.
Not knowing which capacitor was responsible for the next mode memory, I penciled them all. It starts in high now.
The three cells measured 12.5 V at the start and 11.5 at the end.
At 11.5 V it is drawing 1.94 A in high and 0.4 in low mode.

Unloaded battery voltage and flashlight current:

12.7 V 1.73 A

11.5 V 1.94

10.9 V 1.92

10.6 V 1.97

It appears that there is regulation, because the input resistance is sometimes negative.

It is brighter than any of my other lights, though I would rather that it were driven harder. Run time will be around 15 minutes, but I don’t actually have a practical use for it, so that is fine. I may eventually try the KD driver that I have. The main advantages of this mod. are low cost and small size, relative to other XHP50 possibilities. It maintains brightness well as battery voltage decreases. The disadvantage of this configuration is that 14500 cells have less capacity relative to their size than 18650 cells do. The only thing that is particularly difficult about this mod. is getting the driver to fit the pill.


Kaidomain driver

I have this driver from Kaidomain:

The components look hefty and it is 26 mm. in diameter. The inductor coil is big though a bit smaller than that of the DX, and it looks to me like a big FET and doubled up free wheeling diodes.
I don’t have a supply of 6V LEDs and my one is built into this light. But I had a damaged XHP-50 that still worked to some extent.

2 x 18650 in: 1.4 A, out: 1.3 A
3 x 18650 in: not measured, out: 3.7 A

It took me too long to measure the 3 x output and the LED, with only the Maxtoch star for heat sink, suffered further damage. The measured LED voltage at 1.3 A was 6.8 V.

Before and after beam shots.

Left CNQ Zoomy Host with Ahorton, Nichia 219C and 12 x 7135, Panasonic charged to 3.9V.
Right Nut Light with DX driver

Left CNQ, right Nut with KD driver.

They are auto-focused on the Nut spot, so the change appears in the CNQ spot. With GIMP I estimate that the change is about 30, that is it is now 30 brighter with the KD.

It now draws 2.9 A at the tail in high mode from cells charged to 12.2 V. These are protected cells. When down to 11.3 V it draws 4.5 A. This current without activating the protection may indicate that the drain is fairly constant when driving the LED. With 800 mAh cells, that gives around 10 or 15 minutes run time.

Here are the two drivers. The DX is partly potted with thermal paste.

Starting with this driver, the mod. is fairly straight forward, the only extra work being to crimp the back of the pill down to 26 mm. The best estimate of the current I have is 3.7 A which is above Cree’s rating but still well below maximum output on direct thermal.

Some lights like to fight being modded at every step. Sorry to hear about your driver and emitter loss. Been there, done that a few times myself. I really like your concept. You have me thinking I need to order some 14500 IMR's now.

The HX-1175b1 driver is 26mm. It was like $11 last time I looked.

Thanks 4. I don’t think it will be a difficult host if I get it figured out and find the right driver. It is that it is my first multi-die emitter light and only my second buck driver light. If I had planned it more carefully it would be going better. The only odd thing about the host is the 27 mm. spaces for driver and emitter. And the host is sometimes cheaper than the driver.
I may try the HX-1175b1, if the seller still has it and sells it in quantities of one or two. I see your thread on it but haven’t read much beyond the OP yet.

I need to up date that OP as I have learned a lot about that driver since. It's a sold buck capable of fully driving even the XHP70. Stock it drives at 7 amps. Standard 5 modes (L,M,H,Strobe,SOS) with good memory. I've piggy backed Attiny's on all of mine. I'm trying to get around to designing an OSH Park board that uses most of the components, but uses the Attiny 13/25/45/85 and a very efficient voltage regulator for the MCU and Buck Converter.

The smallest quantity I now that can be bought is 2 here. It's the same vendor that I purchased from on ebay, but I have not purchased via that site yet.

It says “Size: Diameter 32mm x Height 12mm”. The Nut Light pill has a 27 mm. driver groove.
The space the pill fits into is 31 mm.

This is what I am going to do with mine. Its still in progress and for now I have made only new brass pill, and chose the 6A new LD-2 driver from Led4power. I will probably use XP-L HI emitter ….

Fritz t. Cat wrote:

It says “Size: Diameter 32mm x Height 12mm”. The Nut Light pill has a 27 mm. driver groove.
The space the pill fits into is 31 mm.

Darn, it does and I just measured mine and it is indeed 32mm in diameter. How the heck I convinced my self it was 26mm, I have no clue. My apologies for the confusion.

EDIT: If you need it, the diameter of the white line that goes around the components is 28mm.

NikolaS, that is a beautiful pill you made there.


So you are much more committed than I am. With the LED and the two drivers gone, my investment in the project is around $10 $15 with the star.

Now I see what looks in the picture like it says 1175C, and the description says 26 mm. Will that do?

I know RaceR86 tried those out and determined they are inferior to the HX-1175b's. They are probably good for the rated 5 amps though. I thought they were the same diameter of the HX-1175b's. Maybe that is where I got confused.

I might have a couple of those at home. I can measure the diameter and report back tonight if I do.

Thanks again 4W. I don’t need the best, just more light than anything I have :cowboy_hat_face:.

OK, I do have some HX-1175C's. They are 32mm in diamete, just like the HX-1175b's.

I wish I knew of some options in the size range you need. I imagine you could shave off a bit of the pill bottom and put an HX-1175 against the bottom. Filing off 1mm off the diameter of the HX-1175's doesn't look like it would cause any problems. RMM has at least a nice 17mm buck option.

Nice to know that before ordering. Thanks again. Not sure what I’ll do. Maybe nothing.
It will be interesting to see what NikolaS does, if he shows us. If I had access to a lathe, I would probably use a 17 mm. driver.
An LED Lenser P14 with its three way mechanical switch and a 12 volt LED would reduce the driver problem to resistors, but its optics seems to need a smaller LED.

I have one more driver I might try: It is 22 mm., so I will have to use a plate one way or the other.

I also have a 26 mm. driver on order, from KD

^ I'm not familiar with either but both look interesting just from a cost standpoint. The first one looks like it has a nice inductor and a couple decent enough sized flyback diodes.

Sometimes there is a capacitor that can be pencil moded. to fix next mode memory. Can anyone identify which capacitor I should try that on? Maybe I might try penciling all of them, as there can’t be any that needs low leakage.

I updated the OP to show a new XHP50 LED.

I have updated the O. P. to show the change from DX to KD driver.

I received another Nut Light today. I hope it isn’t the Warsun XM-L2 I have on order from Banggood. It might be the GB one that they already sent a replacement for, or it might be the missing one from either Banggood or or Gearbest when, even longer ago, I ordered one from each and only received one, or maybe it is the replacement coming sooner than expected. If the replacement comes and the Warsun comes, I will have as many lights as I have paid for. I don’t remember why I ordered so many, except that they are cheap. I think a couple were to replace ones that hadn’t come.

I wonder what a frosted dome XHP50 will look like in a zoomie. It does wonders for a XHP70 in a Lumintop SD75.

KawiBoy1428, please pick up the white courtesy telephone.