I will give it a try, my lights are dry and need lube.
I use RICO Cork Grease, it`s for clarinets and saxaphones etc… it comes in a tube just like chapstick and works great!
i bought some silicone lube at a dive shop prbly 10 years ago, i figured if it was good for divers, it is good enough for flashlights.
Well if you had some laying around then go ahead. I would still go with any form of silicone lube over dielectric grease.
I find that dielectric grease is sticky that’s why I use them especially on my keychain twisties. As for any different from silicone lube, I think it’s more economical to use silicone lube plus it moisturizes your o-rings
I use the Ford Motorcraft XG12 dielectric grease thats Nyogel 760G. Good lubricant for O rings and threads? - #19 by RobertB
Not sure what the permatrex makeup is but it could be close to the same.
The XG12 was much cheaper than buying the retail labeled 760G grease.
It was sold on BLF at one time. SOLD OUT! -- thank you -- 3 ounces of Nyogel 760G for $12, postage included -- U.S. only
I got some Yezl SG6 from fasttech. Took ages to come and corona made it even longer but it works.
I use TEF-GEL on flashlights and our boat. It is a ptfe based substance that has no electrical conduction, never dries out, won’t wash away with moisture, and only needs one application. I think it was primarily developed for the marine industry. It’s expensive, but a two ounce tub will last quite awhile, and won’t go bad at room temperature, at least so far. My tub is eight years old and it’s about a third gone. It’s super sticky and will make a mess of things if not careful. I put some of it, along with some silicone on a piece of metal and left it in the sun for a few weeks. No discernible change to the gel. The silicone was gone however.
Years ago I was using silicone based grease for o-rings and such, but had to re-apply every year or so. After awhile I noticed black on my fingers from seals degrading, probably from not applying often enough. I was using silicone grease designed for seals and grommets. Silicone dries out and disappears eventually, as do most other seal treatments I’ve used. TEF-GEL was designed to prevent corrosion between dissimilar metals in contact with each other, but it works fine for seals. Anyway, no more black fingers and I only have to do the job once, as it never dries out. And, threaded parts disassemble with ease. Don’t get me wrong. If I put it back tight it stays that way, but won’t gall or lock up from corrosion. Best to clean surfaces first to remove the old lubricant.
Hey, Nyogel was like the past favorites for CPF and it’s super difficult to find for me in Malaysia. I’m not sure how they perform but I stick to Permatex because of the viscosity. I tried some local brand dielectric grease and they’re very smooth Vaseline texture while the permatex had a sticky glue like texture for a grease which makes me always fall back to it. Very useful on holding twisty lights as they won’t fall off.
Totally user preference here
I use Trident silicon grease… same as for my SCUBA equipment
I finally used up my Ford tube. Back to using the 760G tube that's about 1/2 empty I bought from Battery Junction way back: https://www.batteryjunction.com/nyogel-760g.html.
I did recently buy a tube of SuperLube w/PTFE as TK recommended recently, bought here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0081JE0OO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This stuff can go quicker when lubing up a few BLF GT's and other large lights.
I like the sound of ptfe, and not drying out,
here is the lowest price/size tef-gel I found
here is one product I tried and do NOT recommend, not just because it is expensive. I dont mind buying stuff that works, this stuff does not work for flashlights:
Krytox 205… Do NOT Buy
It dries out and makes the light difficult to unscrew…
I dont know why it is highly recommended in the lube thread on CPF… it does not work for me.
I have not tried Nyogel 760, but here is a low price/size option
you get 3x the quantity for the same price, if you use the link moderator007 offered. I trust his recommendations:
I use Militec-1 oil and grease for all my knives, guns, lawn tools, automotive hinges/latches/additives, outdoor padlocks, etc. Impregnates the metal and does not attract dust/dirt. https://www.militec-1.com/
I know I sound like a com’l butt I just have used it with xlnt results for so many years. A little goes a long way.
I have a big tube of the TEF-GEL also. Pretty sure it has a high concentration of Teflon (PTFE) but it has a very sticky base. It also has a high viscosity which makes it in the dampening grease category. Teflon works extremely well to lube titanium, with its anti-galling properties. It it is a thicker high viscosity lube, just keep that it mind.
If you threw it in a motor it would slow it down from the dampening effect. Too much of it alone in a rotary light will make the control ring slow to turn.
Jon_slider that is the same tube I have, been to long to remember where I got it from though.
What about rubber seals? Any reactions or deterioration?
I’ve seen no reaction in any o-rings at all. It is used in military firearms and vehicles so I would doubt any reaction to seals.
One thing to consider is the requirement of heat to bond the Militec-1 to the metal. “Alternatively, you may use a heat gun, hairdryer, burnishing or polishing tool to heat the gunmetal. In heat controlled environments, do not exceed 150° F (65° C). ”
I always thought krytox was only for plastics. Maybe I’m wrong. Krytox 205g0 was like God tier end game lube for mechanical keyboard switches and people there swear by it. Yes it dries up and creates a lube film making switches glides on a never ending butter.
What could be a plus in a different use is prolly not for us who use it on non moving parts like a flashlight thread, making it into a glue.
Never knew they were recommended in CPF.
Petroleum-based lubricants may deteriorate o-rings using petroleum-based rubbers. Same for silicone lubricants with silicone rubbers.
Nice. I’ve previously read somewhere of users keeping a different grease for the different types of o-rings.
That’s what I have currently.
Yeah I know, that’s what they say, I mentioned it above. But like I said I used it for years in flashlights with no failure and my water filter O-ring is still in use after 12 years of being covered in the stuff, my plumber is the one who recommended it to prolong its life. I figured it helped resist sticking or tearing during filter changes. At what point does it effect the rubber O-rings? I have no clue or maybe it effects different types of rubber differently.
I use SilGlyde because I have it and it works great on many things and won’t harm the O-rings.