Ok
So I’ve been lurking for a couple of years, being directed here whilst searching for reviews of a certain flashlight I was considering. But I’m just getting into building. And for the record, I had no idea this was a thing, but I’m hooked now.
Lots of great info, but I don’t know if I’m interpreting some things correctly.
So it might be a little ambitious, but I’m going to be building an S2+, with the aforementioned LH351D/Dr Jones driver. I was originally going to go with the Nichia 219C, but I digress. Parts are currently enroute.
I’ve read some testing numbers on the Samsung, and the way I understand it, I would want to keep it at 5-6A or less.
So….
Questions-
Are these amperage numbers accurate, low, or maybe ragged edge?
Am I figuring lumen numbers right?
Example-The LH351D specs show 515lm at 1050mA. That being said, this should be approx 1490lm at 3.04A? At the moment, I only have 10A batteries. And if I’m doing my math correctly, a 10A battery running would be like 4900lm, (I’m pretty sure I read the Dr J is in reality 20%’ish less).
If I set up the double tap to be, “half turbo”, is that to say it would draw 5A per sé. Or a real world, Dr J driver version of half the battery amperage?
I don’t need 4900lm. That is not the intention of this build. I just don’t want to fry anything. I plan on using a rather depleted battery for setup just in case.
Thanks for the reply.
That is one of the write ups I read.
I knew it would not reach the numbers I posted. I was really just wondering if my math, and interpretation of the lumen step up based on amperage percentage was accurate.
The driver is .05% at step 1 which in my estimation is .75’ish lumens, and 1490 at step 22, (100%)
Also, the amperage data. I want to be carful not to push 10A through it and smoke it.
On a side note. As stated in the OP about being directed here while researching interesting flashlights….I read your review of the Folomov EDC C1. And I bought one. I personally love it!
Great review.
90 or 70 CRI ? 90CRI LH351Ds have a lower Vf and so will pull a higher current in direct drive.
As you can see efficiency goes does down as current increases so you can’t do a rule of three to estimate lumens.
Estimating current in direct drive isn’t easy because a bunch of resistances influence it. You can try myDD calculator , you wont get very accurate estimations but it should help you understand how it works.
You are misunderstanding how much of this works. Batteries do not dictate current the components in the circuit do.
Also, “half turbo” on a DrJ driver is still turbo, just with PWM (turning on and off faster than you can see).
The components you chose should all be compatible. The LH351D is very robust emitter and you can pair it with just about any battery/driver/etc. Enjoy building your new light.
I kinda knew that, but I’m still learning how it all works together. Kinda like only sticking a big lopey cam in your car, a race car does not it make….
Ahhhh, this I did not know.
Awesome.
I know the Dr. Jones is a more advanced driver and I could have just stuck a qlite in there to get my feet wet. But I’ll be perfectly honest.
I absolutely want that UI. It sounds amazing. I may hate it when I start to use it. But right know….I WANT IT.
Hahahaha.
Anyway, thank you thank you!