thats very useful information… thanks!
Opening post updated with C8 results - another wow!
Those latest C8 numbers are impressive. It makes me wonder why the XinTD had issues. I would expect very similar results. There must be a little extra resistance in there or something.
Me too - I was dissapointed with the XinTD a bit. Whatever it is, the LightMalls C8 U2 is a very good reflector I believe - I've swapped parts around and the better #'s seem to follow the reflector. Of course there are variances between emitters, drivers, etc., and I think the battery is on the edge. Still need to try an IMR battery with these setups to see if I can get more amps. Of course the C8 was able to get more amps than the XinTD which explains the lumens difference most likely.
Also I completed a T10 host build (from I-O here) with a XM-L2 U2 and SinkPAD, results were good in the 900 lumen range, but nothing to compare with. It's a really nice looking light, although, FastTech's Convoy L1 appears to be the same exact host but with an extender tube. Build was a little complicated because of 21mm driver mount - used a blank filler, and the pill did not fit properly so had to dremel down the emitter mount front, but then it all fit fine and worked out well. Ashame though a host had such a poor match of parts.
impressive numbers. I’m still figuring out what I’m going to use mine in 
That is some impressive C8 light!
OK, for fun I modded my TR-3T6 from XM-L T6 1A to XM-L U3 1C (XM-L2 are still hard to find) on copper SinkPads. There was some work involved to cut the pads to fit, but it did work and there are measurable results. I think I can see the slight difference too, mainly by comparing to my UF T90 which had the same Lumen output before. In both cases, the emitters are getting ~5.6A total.
TR-3T6 Before: 3x XM-L T6 1A on 16mm aluminum star
- 1666 lumens at start, 1589 lumens @30 secs, Throw: Forgot to measure (fresh Sanyo 2800 ZTs x3)
TR-3T6 After: 3x XM-L U3 1C on cut 20mm SinkPads:
- 1813 lumens at start, 1774 lumens @30 secs, Throw: 21.5kcd (measured at 3.65 meters), (fresh Sanyo 2800 ZTs x3)
The gain reflects the emitter swap, and the heat sag reflects the copper doing its job. Almost a 10% gain. Going to XM-L2 would make this worthwhile for sure; I would put that mod close to 2000 lumens.
A friend of mine is going to make me a copper replica of the HD2010 pill. I’m thinking about reflow soldering a copper star to the pill and then reflow the emitter to the star. Being somewhat new to modding, I was wondering if you think I’ll have any problems? Also what are your thoughts on using a electrically/thermally conductive grease on the pills threads?
I’ve thought about this and came to the conclusion that it will be exceedingly difficult to reflow an emitter onto a PCB that is soldered to a massive copper pill. Impossible, though? I can’t say for certain, but probably not! It would help to use two types of solders. The solder between the PCB and the pill would have a higher melting point than the solder (likely eutectic 63/37 Pb/Sn due it having the lowest melting point of all solders) used to reflow the LED.
Reflowing the star to the pill is new territory to me. I think Slim Pickens has the right idea/approach though. But man, if you got a copper pill and a SinkPAD in a HD2010, look out! I'm not sure I'd take a chance on soldering - simple high qual thermal grease would work well too, but only after high degree of polishing/smoothing the surfaces - can't believe you'd lose much there.
For the pill threads, I've tried a few things - nothing, high qual thermal grease, Nyogel, but didn't do much in thorough testing to see what's the best, but I beleive I've seen improvements with the grease and Nyogel. If I use thermal grease, I use very little - I don't want to interfere much with the electrical path. Even the Nyogel seems to make improvements though, and I'm sure it all depends on the threads, materials, etc. I'd love to use electrically/thermally conductive grease, but cant' find any - or way too much $$$. Do you have some? Do you have a link or is it specially sourced? I think if you have high qual threads and lots of them, it probably won't make much of a difference, but if you have really good stuff, definitely use it!
Solder Emitter to Star. Then Solder Star to Pill using a torch to heat the Pill. As soon as soldered, Quench the bottom of the pill on a damp sponge to start cooling it quickly - but as far from the emitter as possible. It’ll be pretty easy, actually.
PPtk
I was looking at Conducto-Lube from www.cool-amp.com. But it’s $86.25 for an ounce. The spec sheet says the shelf life is indefinite. Should last me several life times. 
you can buy many lights with batteries for the price of one ounce
However, I’m looking to get into modding, and nobody said it was cheap 
. But there’s is a challenge squeaking out as many lumens out of a light as possible. Sounds like fun to me!!
have you ever heard of the term best available technology economically achievable?
its not my place to say don’t buy it because its expensive, i’m just saying i wouldn’t
Well if I use it on 50 different flashlights, the cost per unit would be in the budget range. And I still would have plenty to give some to you in one of those solarforce drop-in jars. I’ll let ya know when I get it. Cheers! 
PPtk - have you tried or seen results fro soldering the star? Wondering - in theory I would assume it's the best way to go, but certainly makes it a lot more difficult to break down later.
Ok - I believe the AW IMR battery has basically addressed the lower-than-expected amps in a XM-L2/SinkPAD configuration (Thanks Rick, manxbuggy1, for the AW IMR!!). Here's some numeric proof:
LightMalls UF C8 (from OP):
- amps went from 3.69A to 3.88A (Nanjg @3.85A, 11*350 7135)
- lumens went from 1203-1173 to 1264-1227 lumens (54 lumens increase)
XinTD (from OP):
- amps went from 3.40A to 3.72A (Nanjg @3.85A, 11*350 7135)
- lumens went from 1101-1060 to 1196-1152 lumens (about 90 lumens increase)
Didn't quite make the 3.85A on the XinTD but the jump in amps was more than with the C8. It appears the IMR battery closed the gap on what I expected to see for amps, based on the driver. With an IMR, I got a true 1,200 lumens C8 with the XinTD just a tad behind, and no, this is not Chinese lumens 
.
With XP-G Sinkpad, XP-G2 and a SST-50 Buck-Driver i measured over 6A at a XP-G2 ! >no Problem. 8)
:o i didnt knew you can drive so high the XPG2, 6A is very high for the xml ,well done.