[quote=ToyKeeper]
Thanks! My BLFDD boards both have the off time capacitor. it is set for 2 seconds.
I’ve been reading several post about the programming and equipment, I’m ordering a 8-pin clip and the very common $12 usbasp dongle.
Will report back when I get them. I also have a hexbright flashlight which can be programmed via arduino, I hope to be able to flash it with my own code some day.
FWIW, the parts I got were:
The clip was by far the most expensive part, half due to shipping and half due to the part itself. It’s also the most likely to wear out over time.
This explains how to connect everything: AVR Drivers - Flashlight Wiki
(note that you need 6 pins connected, not 5… connect VCC even though it’s not marked in bold)
If you decide to do much development, it’s helpful to have a test host for easy flashing. Basically just the head of a cheap light with extra-long wires to the driver and some leads to connect a battery. For example:
(edit: oops, this pic was before I realized I needed VCC connected)
Went to the park for a walk for a quick test. I forgot to bring the TM11 for a fair comparison with the triEDC, maybe next time. They were taken with a cellphone but with fixed settings, I did lower the temp for the triEDC, in reality it looks much warmer.
Mouse out: Convoy M2 12x7135 Mouse in: TriEDC XP-L.
Poor convoy! 
I love that blast of light! I still half expect there to be a sound like a boom or a whoosh when I turn it on turbo.
A review of Sinner’s The Cypreus Titanium Tri-EDC 80mm 18350 Series here Sinner's The Cypreus Titanium Tri-EDC 80mm 18350 Series
Cheers,
LJ
At this weekend we start to build it ready.
The cooper one had a big scratch because of bad packing and dont care of a tollkeeper.
It was packaged in a bubble wrap and a plastic bag. The tollkeeper cut it whith a knife.
Not the real way to ship it worldwide.
We build in 3 Nichia in the Brass and 3 dedomed XPL in the Titan.
Both with BLD 17 mm dd driver.
This one is really great and I get them from Ledsmoke . Thanks.
Outside the two hosts are really looking good.
But inside unfortunately the battery carriers are ~5 mm to long.
What is supposed to mean that a protected battery is to short and there is no contact and shake.
And I want to use unprotected…
We had to file the driver in the pill, but this one was no probleme.
Not really perfect but good looking flashlight .
Please for the future:
Precious things need a well package !!! .
Hi Xandre, thank you for your honest feedback. Please understand that what happens to the host in your local customs inspection is unfortunately not in my hands , however packaging advice is noted and i will consider this as a high priority.
In your original request, you had mentioned the need for use of 2x18350 batteries with MT-G2 with “special optics” the battery tube was made to fit your original request, however i will re-consider this as a mistake on my part and you may return the host or a replacement host can be made to your current requirement.
Again, I appreciate your honest feedback and I am looking forward to your builds.
Hi
You are right with the 2 18350, but only one host.
Told you one with Nichia,the other with dedomed XPL and one with MTG2.
Maybe a differnt language mistake.
But no propleme we use some spacers and they work now.
Nice you give me the offer, but not neccessary.
I really like your work and it is really good to speak when there are some “problems ”or better ways.
Your work is great and many thanks.
Xandre, if the negative battery connection is a brass post above the switch you can take that assembly apart and solder a spring on the brass post, then reassemble it. Then the light will have springs top and bottom and you can use either protected or un-protected cells.
I always bypass springs with a 22ga wire soldered inside to keep current high. ;)
Hope this helps...
I just noticed something about this Cypreus with triple XP-L and BLF17DD driver.
While the light is on a strobe mode, the head and tail ends of the light make an audible click every time the light turns on. Should I be worried?
Granted, it’s going from zero to about ten or eleven amps in like one five-hundred-thousandth of a second, waiting 400ms, then turning off again just as quickly. That’s a big and fast pulse of power. Repeat this at 12Hz, 24Hz, or 60Hz, and there is a definite clicking or buzzing sound. I just wonder if this might be something I should be concerned about.
Hi Dale
That is also a good idea and thanks.
At first we solder a ball at the plusbuttom from the 18650.
It works,but my charger doesn`t like it .
Then we put spacers in the tailcap and srew the clicky a little bit down.
The result is that full tailstand is now possible.
That is what I really like at a flashlight in EDC-form.
Wow, that does sound worrying 
. I wonder what is happening, it could be a electromagnetic effect, like the electric field around the wiring inside the switch interfering with the little steel spring. Just thinking out loud about that one, if that is happening partly compressing the switch button should affect the sound.
Nope, it doesn’t seem to be the switch. I’ll have to take it apart and look for any signs that something inside could be arcing. Seems unlikely though, since that should cause a short and make it react somehow.
I can hear the sound from both the head and tail of the light, but I’m not sure if it’s originating from one place or more than one. I didn’t notice it until I tailstood it in strobe mode on a shelf which amplified the sound.
A similar sound comes out when it’s flipping quickly between two levels, like 100% and 16%. I wouldn’t be surprised if the regular PWM also does this, but it’s probably too fast to be able to hear.
You need to fire a cylinder full of .357 Magnum rounds from a ported 2” snubnose revolver without wearing hearing protection. Then the light will be fixed.
Well, you won’t hear it anymore anyway…
Can’t wait for my 18350 tri-EDC host to arrive! 
I keep earplugs in my purse so I can use them at movies, dance clubs, and other loud places. Not a fan of hearing loss.
I did a little customization on my Ti-XC to get the o-ring clear of the optics and some aesthetics up front…
Held the bezel in my left hand, made the cuts using the Proxxon rotary tool with my right hand. Sophisticated stuff, huh?
Cut an o-ring groove at the lip of the bezel, chamfered the leading edge of the bezel opening to the optic.
that is one sexy cut, unbelievably beautiful. Dale, you never cease to amaze. :party:
Hi
looking good
but it seems it is to deep. Some light will stay in the bezel.
Maybe an ULC Lens to protect the plastic lens and use the space.
For Example:
http://intl-outdoor.com/20mm-ar-coated-glass-lens-p-591.html
Screw the pill higher and use a spacer at the battery(like you suggest me )
or at the clicky.
Then it will be really loocking good and professional.