Wow, that does sound worrying 
. I wonder what is happening, it could be a electromagnetic effect, like the electric field around the wiring inside the switch interfering with the little steel spring. Just thinking out loud about that one, if that is happening partly compressing the switch button should affect the sound.
Nope, it doesn’t seem to be the switch. I’ll have to take it apart and look for any signs that something inside could be arcing. Seems unlikely though, since that should cause a short and make it react somehow.
I can hear the sound from both the head and tail of the light, but I’m not sure if it’s originating from one place or more than one. I didn’t notice it until I tailstood it in strobe mode on a shelf which amplified the sound.
A similar sound comes out when it’s flipping quickly between two levels, like 100% and 16%. I wouldn’t be surprised if the regular PWM also does this, but it’s probably too fast to be able to hear.
You need to fire a cylinder full of .357 Magnum rounds from a ported 2” snubnose revolver without wearing hearing protection. Then the light will be fixed.
Well, you won’t hear it anymore anyway…
Can’t wait for my 18350 tri-EDC host to arrive! 
I keep earplugs in my purse so I can use them at movies, dance clubs, and other loud places. Not a fan of hearing loss.
I did a little customization on my Ti-XC to get the o-ring clear of the optics and some aesthetics up front…
Held the bezel in my left hand, made the cuts using the Proxxon rotary tool with my right hand. Sophisticated stuff, huh?
Cut an o-ring groove at the lip of the bezel, chamfered the leading edge of the bezel opening to the optic.
that is one sexy cut, unbelievably beautiful. Dale, you never cease to amaze. :party:
Hi
looking good
but it seems it is to deep. Some light will stay in the bezel.
Maybe an ULC Lens to protect the plastic lens and use the space.
For Example:
http://intl-outdoor.com/20mm-ar-coated-glass-lens-p-591.html
Screw the pill higher and use a spacer at the battery(like you suggest me )
or at the clicky.
Then it will be really loocking good and professional.
I started with a fresh cut-off wheel on the rotary so the diameter is too large. I need to use a smaller diameter to get a deeper cut but not any wider.
I put photography lighting correction film over the optic, it’s kind of pink or light rose color, to take out the green of the de-domed XP-L’s. Now it’s a nicer warm hue that is much more pleasing on the eye and gives the smooth shiny appearance of a lens up front.
This one is not like yours though, the copper heart of the light holds the 20mm Noctigon at the top with the optics sitting on it. The bezel screws on over this directly onto the copper. No room for fudging UNLESS I inset the 20mm star the depth of the lens’ thickness. 
(I’ve looked at this, yes) Not a problem with a lathe, much trickier with the basic tools I have. We’ll see.
Using the cut-off wheel on the rotary makes white sparks with the Ti, pretty neat! :bigsmile:
Edit: I see what you’re saying Xandre, maybe cut the stop deeper on the bezel so there’d be enough space for the lens to fit between the optics and Ti bezel. Hmmm, this might be doable. It wouldn’t have to be perfect as the o-ring will adapt to the surface. By Jove I think you might be on to something! 
I have the luck,that Vinz dedomed my XPL.
No green.
But I really like the colour of the Nichias @ good Ampere.
Black Friday deals are over.
November 28, 2013 at 11:59 p.m. PST
New Hosts coming up this week.
Stay tuned
You’ve been staying busy! Coming up with more and more ways to separate us from our hard earned monies! 
Really great work Man, that little Ti light is just so damn cute it’s simply irresistible!
(Yes, I’m a sucker for little things, Tiny things, done well. Especially Tiny Ti things!)
Whatever it is, seems like a very interesting host… I promise it will be my last sinner host (this year).
It is a Ti 18650 in tri-edc , smaller than Sinner-Ti , I have stopped making 100mm versions because of limited building space and less heatsinking esp with Titanium the small copper pill wouldnt work with our requirements
Added some XMAS Deals and Discounts, Will be assembling the new hosts in the next few days and they will be up for sale by coming week.
Happy holidays.
Interesting. What is the size of the Ti 18650 tri-edc?
Heat sinking is less relevant if the highest modes are only used for short times. I don’t know about anyone else, but I have a short timeout for two-level auto-stepdown and I still don’t ever hit that timeout. Most of my use is 100 lumens or less, which even a stainless steel host can handle.
It is around 4.5” , 18650 form factor, but a little bit more pocketable. my goal was to add a standard sized copper pill, despite the popular belief i would agree with you completely, I find the low(er) modes extremely useful most of the time, my use is mainly indoors and in the car.
Shhhhh…don’t tell anybody (looking around to see who’s listening) I mainly use low and medium modes myself. (Double checks for spies) Almost never use Turbo.
Somebody’s coming, hide!
Now we know why you program as much as that-many modes, and only one turbo mode.
Hmm, 4.5 inches… so, about 114mm? I have trouble thinking in imperial units.
I’ve been finding that my smallest lights get used the most, like the CNQG brass light (97mm x 21mm). At least, smallest moddable lights anyway. If I can’t fix the tint and firmware, it’s a lot less interesting to me. I’m excited about modding the 1xAA version if I can ever get or make a driver for it.
The copper Cypreus does exactly what I had hoped, but it’s a bit large/heavy/soft for EDC use. It’s great as a small photon grenade though, and as a functional steampunk accessory. It’s like a souped-up Skyray King but prettier and 1/5th the size.