FWIW, I found out what happens when you squish the widest Carclo optic onto a domed triple-XP-L. It actually pulled the domes off. The emitters still work; they’re just accidentally de-domed.
I’m not 100% sure which optic it was, but I think it was the 10511, the least-frosted of the three frosted ones. Definitely not the 10507. The fit was really really close, but not quite close enough.
So you found an XP-L dome removal tool?
Happened to me too, I thought it was one in a million times kind of thing lol… It was 20mm honeycomb single emitter XML optics… Easily the highest quality dedoming i had seen or done myself.
Today I finished my Triple XP-L Cu TriEDC!! It took me nearly 2 hours, but it was well worth it. This is my third flashlight build since I joined BLF, but lot more are coming!
First I was worried about the tint being too yellow, but actually it is nowhere near my P0 MT-G2, in fact it is whiter than my PD35vn. Side to side with a 1A it looks like a neutral white which I usually avoid, but because it produces an insane amount of output, I’m quite happy with it.
Here are some pictures of the build:
I shortened the spring by more than half otherwise it would crush the battery. BTW not the cleanest soldering job… :bigsmile:
I used AS5 epoxy. The 10507 optic stuck there after the epoxy dried, so I didn’t tried to remove it.
After polishing all the parts are ready for assemble. I’m using 25R.
Such a beauty!
Beamshots, taken with fixed settings.
3.04A Triple R5 in convoy S2.
TriEDC
Readings @1M:
Triple R5 S2: 6,200 lux
Triple XP-L TriEDC: 26,500 lux
With the fully charged 25R my cheap meter with custom leads reads 10.3A.
This thing is insane, I think it puts out more light than my nitecore TM11!! Overall I’m very happy with this build, it’s a one of a kind flashlight. There are a couple things that can be improved for future hosts design such as room for a front glass, waterproof clicky, and thinner front bezel. I’m looking forward to expand my collection Sinner’s lights.
Well, that sure looks familiar. 
It probably does put out more light than a TM11. Mine seems to be on par with my souped-up SRK, which puts out about 150% as much light as a TM11, and others have also tested their triple-XPLs at about the same output. At least, on a full high-amp cell. Output drops fast.
I switched mine from a 10507 optic to a 10511, so I won’t have to deal with dirt getting into the indentations in the optic. It also reduces beam artifacts to almost nothing, though the spot is a bit less intense.
What kind of UI did you put on it? Do you have an off-time capacitor?
The 10511 polishes out easily with Mother’s Billet Polish and a newspaper.
Still doesn’t have quite the hot spot of the 10507 in my opinion but there’s no losses and the surface is flat and solid.
I used a stock 5 mode BLF17DD from mtn, 60 turbo timer and off memory (is this the off time capacitor you’re talking about?).
But I want to switch to only 2 modes: 0.5A low and DD, and a turbo timer of 20 seconds so when it kicks in it goes to low mode. I like it simple.
Sadly I already have two stock BLF17DD and don’t know how to modify the FW/UI… and don’t plan to use them on any other light.
Edit: Can I flash a custom UI to my blf17DD with RMM/jonnyC’s guide? I have nearly ZERO skills when it comes to programming, but I’m willing to learn.
You should be able to reflash any BLF17DD, with a few reasonably inexpensive bits of hardware — a usbasp programmer ($4), a ribbon cable ($0 to $2), and a chip clip ($8 to $30).
If you want I can make the firmware you described; it’s only a trivial mod to JonnyC’s STAR firmware. But you’ll need the flashing hardware, or access to someone who has it.
As for off memory, it’s a matter of whether the mode changes are based on how long the light was off instead of how long the light was on. If a short press always advances the mode and you never have to tap twice to change mode, it probably has an off-time capacitor.
[quote=ToyKeeper]
Thanks! My BLFDD boards both have the off time capacitor. it is set for 2 seconds.
I’ve been reading several post about the programming and equipment, I’m ordering a 8-pin clip and the very common $12 usbasp dongle.
Will report back when I get them. I also have a hexbright flashlight which can be programmed via arduino, I hope to be able to flash it with my own code some day.
FWIW, the parts I got were:
The clip was by far the most expensive part, half due to shipping and half due to the part itself. It’s also the most likely to wear out over time.
This explains how to connect everything: AVR Drivers - Flashlight Wiki
(note that you need 6 pins connected, not 5… connect VCC even though it’s not marked in bold)
If you decide to do much development, it’s helpful to have a test host for easy flashing. Basically just the head of a cheap light with extra-long wires to the driver and some leads to connect a battery. For example:
(edit: oops, this pic was before I realized I needed VCC connected)
Went to the park for a walk for a quick test. I forgot to bring the TM11 for a fair comparison with the triEDC, maybe next time. They were taken with a cellphone but with fixed settings, I did lower the temp for the triEDC, in reality it looks much warmer.
Mouse out: Convoy M2 12x7135 Mouse in: TriEDC XP-L.
Poor convoy! 
I love that blast of light! I still half expect there to be a sound like a boom or a whoosh when I turn it on turbo.
A review of Sinner’s The Cypreus Titanium Tri-EDC 80mm 18350 Series here Sinner's The Cypreus Titanium Tri-EDC 80mm 18350 Series
Cheers,
LJ
At this weekend we start to build it ready.
The cooper one had a big scratch because of bad packing and dont care of a tollkeeper.
It was packaged in a bubble wrap and a plastic bag. The tollkeeper cut it whith a knife.
Not the real way to ship it worldwide.
We build in 3 Nichia in the Brass and 3 dedomed XPL in the Titan.
Both with BLD 17 mm dd driver.
This one is really great and I get them from Ledsmoke . Thanks.
Outside the two hosts are really looking good.
But inside unfortunately the battery carriers are ~5 mm to long.
What is supposed to mean that a protected battery is to short and there is no contact and shake.
And I want to use unprotected…
We had to file the driver in the pill, but this one was no probleme.
Not really perfect but good looking flashlight .
Please for the future:
Precious things need a well package !!! .
Hi Xandre, thank you for your honest feedback. Please understand that what happens to the host in your local customs inspection is unfortunately not in my hands , however packaging advice is noted and i will consider this as a high priority.
In your original request, you had mentioned the need for use of 2x18350 batteries with MT-G2 with “special optics” the battery tube was made to fit your original request, however i will re-consider this as a mistake on my part and you may return the host or a replacement host can be made to your current requirement.
Again, I appreciate your honest feedback and I am looking forward to your builds.
Hi
You are right with the 2 18350, but only one host.
Told you one with Nichia,the other with dedomed XPL and one with MTG2.
Maybe a differnt language mistake.
But no propleme we use some spacers and they work now.
Nice you give me the offer, but not neccessary.
I really like your work and it is really good to speak when there are some “problems ”or better ways.
Your work is great and many thanks.
Xandre, if the negative battery connection is a brass post above the switch you can take that assembly apart and solder a spring on the brass post, then reassemble it. Then the light will have springs top and bottom and you can use either protected or un-protected cells.
I always bypass springs with a 22ga wire soldered inside to keep current high. ;)
Hope this helps...
I just noticed something about this Cypreus with triple XP-L and BLF17DD driver.
While the light is on a strobe mode, the head and tail ends of the light make an audible click every time the light turns on. Should I be worried?
Granted, it’s going from zero to about ten or eleven amps in like one five-hundred-thousandth of a second, waiting 400ms, then turning off again just as quickly. That’s a big and fast pulse of power. Repeat this at 12Hz, 24Hz, or 60Hz, and there is a definite clicking or buzzing sound. I just wonder if this might be something I should be concerned about.
Hi Dale
That is also a good idea and thanks.
At first we solder a ball at the plusbuttom from the 18650.
It works,but my charger doesn`t like it .
Then we put spacers in the tailcap and srew the clicky a little bit down.
The result is that full tailstand is now possible.
That is what I really like at a flashlight in EDC-form.