My last two are hi/lo/stb, could do without the stb, but when using a 14500 I find the low very handy avoiding heating and lower run time issues on high.
I just bought an Olight i3S with a G2, so that will be my EDC for awhile, making me hold off any further SK68 types for a bit and see if a new generation with better emitters doesn’t become common.
Ive gone the other way.
I bought the i3s as a beside the bed light, and for camping and inside tents while hunting.
It is absolutely perfect. It is exactly what I need, high enough high, moonlight not too low, turns on medium first so the mrs doesnt use all the battery, light, reliable, efficient, cheap.
I am now looking for more or less an aa version. Will start with the sipik clone, build it how i want it, then find one a bit higher quality 
Chris
I’m liking the i3S, lived in my pocket since it arrived a couple days ago, and I just ordered a couple efest 10440 imr from RMM.
Problem with flashlights is that they are fun, so it takes some time to decide if they are also practical to use.
The other half of the problem is that you could be happy with a light, UNTIL you get something better then the old light shows all its flaws and you want something better. the i3S UI is spoiling me, twisty with very easy one hand operation, med/hi/moon rapid cycle for stb. Makes me less happy with ON/OFF or hi/lo/stb lights.
Its just too practical to have working level first, turbo high output, moonlight, then rarely needed but I think essential stb if you really need to attract attention.
I’d be tempted to suggest play with the SK68 if you want, but consider jumping directly to a Zebralight SC52.
That is pretty nice.
Would like xpg2 instead, at least an xml2 maybe, and twisty. That side switch will be electronic wont it?
Chris
I think so, it says something about so many months of parasitic drain, so sounds like its electronic.
Only issue I have heard about with the light is that some had trouble after dropping in the water.
Good side is so bright, builtin protection, so small, so light.
Getting this i3S really has me juggling my thoughts on what I want, shifting from a pocket EDC which I think the i3S covers, to a toolbag light that can be larger if it performs.
Basically, I want an i2s haha
Chris
I find that my slim 3-mode Zoom AA/1450 EXPIRED ! "Black" $1.99 Max 3ea 14500 light doesn’t have enough run time and am looking for a slim 18650, but haven’t found one that fits in my shirt pocket and zooms.
This one is $9 shipped, I think I bought one that is close to it for about $12 a few months back. Its big, but its plenty bright on 3xAAA.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/12W-1800Lm-CREE-XM-L-T6-LED-Zoom-Zoomable-Flashlight-Torch-Lamp-18650-AAA-Black-/300847273349
I have a SingFire SF-117B CREE XM-L T6 SK68 from here
I have just updated it with a new XML-U2 ( the last remaining working one from my Fandyfire Warrior I killed) and this 17mm driver board from Richard
QLITE REV.A 7135*8 3.04A LED DRIVER
The driver is too big to fit in the pill but it will sit on the top of it and the pill screws down on to it , makes it a bit tight in the battery compartment the switch won’t screw down the last half turn
but it all seems to work ok and now the medium is the same brightness as full was before and full is much brighter , better than its big brother SK98
Only downside so far is damn it gets hot fast on full now might have to treat full as turbo and medium as full the qlite driver has a nice low mode now and no stupid blinkies.
Thats my experience, want brighter, gets hotter, so run on medium. 
What seems to work well is to skip the fancy upgrades, get a 3 mode and drop in a lithium cell. Bright enough, fine on medium, just needs some caution to notice when the output drops as the cell discharges.
XM-Ls can take a lot of heat. 3 amps. is only the recommended maximum. Maybe wear gloves.
Combo light and cigarette lighter?
I didn’t notice until after posting that the light in question had a T6, makes it tempting to try one even at $13 USD.
A single 14500 or AA put out enough amperage for a 105 qlite driver to push a XML? I am asking because I was looking at these boost drivers : https://www.fasttech.com/p/1127407 thinking this was about max a 14500 or AA could muster, but if you can fit a xml and 105 qlite heck I’ll try it!
I have gotten over two amps with an IMR 10440 directly driving an XM-L. A good high discharge 14500 won’t limit the output. It depends on stray resistances like the spring, lead wires and maybe the 7135s themselves. For AAs, I like SK-58s better, at least if you don’t use primary lithiums. All that metal is not needed with lower currents, though it does improve efficiency some. (I don’t choose those smaller zoomies like this one 3-mode Zoom AA/1450 EXPIRED ! "Black" $1.99 Max 3ea for esthetic reasons only.)
The last “upgrade” i did to a SK68 was this.
(the silver one on the left was an SK68 like the right one before i started.) its one of my current EDC lights.
What tools did you need?
Nice Work!
Lathe is my guess.
Yes the 14550 I have works ok with, not tested run times but I can’t leave it on high for long anyway as it gets damn hot
I use a Trust fire flame , I changed the LED to one from a Fandyfire Warrior(XML-U2) quite a cool tint replaced the driver with the Qlite , snipped a couple of turns off the spring to make battery cap fit better then braided driver and tailcap
In the photo to compare is a ZeusRay zoomie with XML2 and quite good reviews, mine has had driver and tail cap springs braided as well which is on the left
On the right is the SK68 , both were on full but piccy taken with my iphone which cut the white balance right down it looks much brighter in person but at least you can compare with the other quite well known Zeusray, the SK68 matches the brightness but can’t flood out as much or zoom in as small as the Zeusray but as a EDC its quite a good bright torch.
