Thanks! Yeah, 0.8A seems a bit low but it’s always a lottery …
With the thicker star, my SK68 conversion didn’t focus, until I put an o-ring behind the bezel. When I got it focused, I saw that I had forgotten what I ordered. It is an XM-L2. I unscrewed the pill until it just hits the lens and am trying to glue it in that position, but not so tight that I can’t get it out. That restores the flood and the maximum light output, without losing the focus.
How big of a diameter driver can be placed in the 68?
Looks like 16mm (Sipik Sk68 from FT).
Thanks, I’m thinking of some of these with an XPG2 on copper and a nice reliable driver would make nice gifts this X-mas.
Mine that I measured is 15 mm., but I was reading in some thread here that one can use a 17 mm. driver under instead of in the pill. There is room below the pill, depending on which clone and what cell, or one could file the pill shorter or move it forward. I may do that, or I may use the 17 mm. 3 amp. driver I ordered on a 18650 light where it will have more cooling and run time. A three amp 68 would be a cute stunt but not of much practical use. The XM-L2 light is proving useful as it is.
I forget which thread, but seemed like consensus was no need for a copper star at the practical power levels of SK68 case heat dissipation and battery power, just not high enough current to warrant any of the fancy mods. More efficient emitters seem like the best option, XP G2 or XM L2.
G2 on a aluminum star with a hi/med/lo driver with built in Lion low v protection would be nice.
OTOH without losing the quality of decent output on 1x AA Eneloop, and very good output with 1x 14500 in stock form for $5 shipped. That is the primary charm of the SK68 clone.
Just took one of these clones from Banggood out last night and man does it throw better than the XR-E version I have on my keychain. It will put a much tighter-focused beam way down the end of my street.
Which clones? And why better focused than with an XR-E which is small?
IIRC, some said there were XPEs in those. Of which there are different die sizes and bin ratings.
But the differences could easily be different drivers with different draw rates, if not different cells with difference draw capability. Even different spring or body material alloys can allow more or less current draw. Less likely but another possibility would be different convex lens transmission efficiency.
It’s a lottery, even buying the same sku from the same vendor.
Just ordered my first clone from fasttech.
Provided this order arrives (express shipping) ill be looking at making it as throwy as possible.
10440 DD on xpe2 maybe? Hope my 10mm sinkpads arrive soon
Chris
The ones I order from http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/284239968.html have large long focal length lenses in narrower edged bezels, which makes the spot smaller without any less focused light (perhaps at the expense of crush resistance). They have high current on 14500s but maybe not good efficiency or consistency of the driver. They have XR-Es, which as I was just reading are goof for throw. I accidentally de-domed one I was swapping out, so it is not hard to do.
The ones at Banggood for $4.99. Ordered 9 at $3.99 from overseas. They sport the XP-E and so the die appears to be very small just like the XR-E (or at least similar). The magnifier is somehow thicker and the die set further back in the light, I think, thus giving it that extra tightness. Pine green was sold out, as were the blue ones, so I got the regular greens, reds, and blacks for sales/giveaways. They definitely throw.
My last two are hi/lo/stb, could do without the stb, but when using a 14500 I find the low very handy avoiding heating and lower run time issues on high.
I just bought an Olight i3S with a G2, so that will be my EDC for awhile, making me hold off any further SK68 types for a bit and see if a new generation with better emitters doesn’t become common.
Ive gone the other way.
I bought the i3s as a beside the bed light, and for camping and inside tents while hunting.
It is absolutely perfect. It is exactly what I need, high enough high, moonlight not too low, turns on medium first so the mrs doesnt use all the battery, light, reliable, efficient, cheap.
I am now looking for more or less an aa version. Will start with the sipik clone, build it how i want it, then find one a bit higher quality 
Chris
I’m liking the i3S, lived in my pocket since it arrived a couple days ago, and I just ordered a couple efest 10440 imr from RMM.
Problem with flashlights is that they are fun, so it takes some time to decide if they are also practical to use.
The other half of the problem is that you could be happy with a light, UNTIL you get something better then the old light shows all its flaws and you want something better. the i3S UI is spoiling me, twisty with very easy one hand operation, med/hi/moon rapid cycle for stb. Makes me less happy with ON/OFF or hi/lo/stb lights.
Its just too practical to have working level first, turbo high output, moonlight, then rarely needed but I think essential stb if you really need to attract attention.
I’d be tempted to suggest play with the SK68 if you want, but consider jumping directly to a Zebralight SC52.
That is pretty nice.
Would like xpg2 instead, at least an xml2 maybe, and twisty. That side switch will be electronic wont it?
Chris
I think so, it says something about so many months of parasitic drain, so sounds like its electronic.
Only issue I have heard about with the light is that some had trouble after dropping in the water.
Good side is so bright, builtin protection, so small, so light.
Getting this i3S really has me juggling my thoughts on what I want, shifting from a pocket EDC which I think the i3S covers, to a toolbag light that can be larger if it performs.
Basically, I want an i2s haha
Chris
I find that my slim 3-mode Zoom AA/1450 EXPIRED ! "Black" $1.99 Max 3ea 14500 light doesn’t have enough run time and am looking for a slim 18650, but haven’t found one that fits in my shirt pocket and zooms.