Sofirn C01R arrived in the mail today!
Wow. It’s such a nice little light. The beamshots don’t really do it justice. I attempted to take some photos too, but it’s proving difficult… it’s hard to get a photo that shows the vibrant red light fading outward.
There seem to be some minor artifacts in the beam when holding the light a few meters from a white wall on Medium. Would this be due to the gap between the PCB and the reflector?
Low - nice and dim.
Medium - a little bit too bright for my l…
Notice in the normal photo which squares on the toy are red and which are green, then compare how those squares appear in the photo lit by the C01R.
Stock Cool White is 102 lumens, just under 6000K CCT and above BBL. Looks mostly white but a slight light blue hue to beam. Not my taste but I didn’t really care cause it was getting removed no matter what.
The anodizing and machining is excellent, definitely the best i’ve seen on an AAA light ever. One thing I dont like is the threads are stiff. It’s very hard to operate one handed. Since it only has one mode maybe it’s OK. It seems like it uses the same TIRs you can find on the Yaji aliexpress store but I didn’t confirm this yet.
Mod time, liberal use of kapton tape just to keep stuff from falling off:
Fail #1: Try to channel heat through brass button. Nothing bad happened but I gave up when the heater was around 215-220. Not sure if heat path wasn’t good or if they used lead free.
Fail #2: (not pictured) try to use soldering iron on brass button from the bottom. Duh, brass button wants to come off instantly, had to re-center it after it slid.
Success: Preheat from the bottom, used the hemostats to keep it in place and keep everything pressed on the brass button and then I used hot air from the top. I dont think I ruined the LED but it definitely took more heat than I expected.
I ended up slicing a LH351*C* 4000K 90 CRI. Since it was sliced it already had some 60/40 solder on it and I put a liberal amount of flux paste between the old Skilhunt solder and my 60/40 tinned and sliced LED. It went on much easier. I’m not certain the original solder on the pad fully melted but at the very least it’s flowed on top of their solder if not completely re-flowed. Oh well it’s <250 mA and I’ll redo it if it fails.
Now it’s >90 CRI and 63.5lm - bigger drop in output than I thought but it makes sense going to NW+sliced+high CRI
Really glad it worked for you. Helps gives me some confidence that I might be able to do the same. I’ve got a boat load of Luxeon V2 in 4000K and 5000K that I got for a song. I might switch in a 4000K and try playing with the current set resistor to get a lower output (for use as a reading light).
I remember looking at this light a while back but passed on it as it can’t tailstand and only has one mode. The anodization colors are quite unique though. I hope the High CRI version will make an appearance at Amazon US. Skilhunt store asks for $6 shipping on a $11 light… ughh
edit: yes I realize $6 shipping is reasonable, no need to point that out to me.