Skilhunt E3A (AAA twisty) - First Look

So it didn’t really work?

I would have hoped for a result similar to in this test with an artificially colored surface:

Notice in the normal photo which squares on the toy are red and which are green, then compare how those squares appear in the photo lit by the C01R.

Very interesting light, the knurling is a nice change of pace. Thanks for the tear down.

LH351B is a peculiar choice though. :open_mouth:

Cactus vs. red C01 (same anodization as C01R): undecided. The cactus reflected a lot of red light, the red flashlight reflected surprisingly little red light.

Real tiny AAA twisty!
I just ordered one slate blue NW from AE to see how it goes. 8.65 euros shipped looks like a good deal.
Thanks for pointing it out.

Look what arrived today! The Slate with a neutral LED. Quite nice.

Mine comes today from Amazon. Curious if the TIR opening is big enough for a larger LED but I assume it’s the same dimensions as Sofirn one with tiny opening.

Will probably try to reflow whole board with components in place later tonight

Stock Cool White is 102 lumens, just under 6000K CCT and above BBL. Looks mostly white but a slight light blue hue to beam. Not my taste but I didn’t really care cause it was getting removed no matter what.

The anodizing and machining is excellent, definitely the best i’ve seen on an AAA light ever. One thing I dont like is the threads are stiff. It’s very hard to operate one handed. Since it only has one mode maybe it’s OK. It seems like it uses the same TIRs you can find on the Yaji aliexpress store but I didn’t confirm this yet.

Mod time, liberal use of kapton tape just to keep stuff from falling off:

Fail #1: Try to channel heat through brass button. Nothing bad happened but I gave up when the heater was around 215-220. Not sure if heat path wasn’t good or if they used lead free.

Fail #2: (not pictured) try to use soldering iron on brass button from the bottom. Duh, brass button wants to come off instantly, had to re-center it after it slid.

Success: Preheat from the bottom, used the hemostats to keep it in place and keep everything pressed on the brass button and then I used hot air from the top. I dont think I ruined the LED but it definitely took more heat than I expected.

I ended up slicing a LH351*C* 4000K 90 CRI. Since it was sliced it already had some 60/40 solder on it and I put a liberal amount of flux paste between the old Skilhunt solder and my 60/40 tinned and sliced LED. It went on much easier. I’m not certain the original solder on the pad fully melted but at the very least it’s flowed on top of their solder if not completely re-flowed. Oh well it’s <250 mA and I’ll redo it if it fails.

Now it’s >90 CRI and 63.5lm - bigger drop in output than I thought but it makes sense going to NW+sliced+high CRI

Geesh, 0.0000 DUV?!

Really glad it worked for you. Helps gives me some confidence that I might be able to do the same. I’ve got a boat load of Luxeon V2 in 4000K and 5000K that I got for a song. I might switch in a 4000K and try playing with the current set resistor to get a lower output (for use as a reading light).

I see this now is available in a “high CRI” emitter option from Skilhunt. Anyone know if this is also a LH351D emitter? I can’t find any specs on emitter or color temp

It’s the smaller die, less power “B” version of the emitter, not “D”. The dome on the “D” is too big to fit under the optic (im fairly sure).

Smaller emitters make sense in these lights anyhow. After seeing some reviews of this light and seeing the CRI version I’m actually interested in it now

Hmm, a new power source?

Remember to flip LED polarity in these situations!

I remember looking at this light a while back but passed on it as it can’t tailstand and only has one mode. The anodization colors are quite unique though. I hope the High CRI version will make an appearance at Amazon US. Skilhunt store asks for $6 shipping on a $11 light… ughh

edit: yes I realize $6 shipping is reasonable, no need to point that out to me. :money_mouth_face:

Is there an acceptable thermal path?

Relative to this thing’s power, yes. But certainly not if you’re looking to convert it to a hot rod. I have a full tear down on the first page.

So @Agro in post 7 was disappointed in its limitation for mods?

I wonder what resistor level would give a good 25-30 lumens for a few hours? That would be a good balance for output vs runtime. That would be a fairly easy mod to swap that resistor.

It’s a PAM2803 so feedback voltage is 95mV. Current to LED = 0.095 volts / R_SET. Either figure out the desired current, and therefore the resistance… Or maybe just quadruple the existing resistance.