Skilhunt E3A (AAA twisty) - First Look

I’ve been using it a while now. I love the small size. I forgot about the stiff twisty so it’s not a problem, though I doubt I can operate the light one handed as I can with some twisties.

I’m sure that nowhere near 100 lumens was coming out of the light with the generic (Titanium Innovations) “1000 mah” AAA nimh cell I had in it. I could believe maybe 20 lumens. I just swapped out that cell for an L92 lithium and it is a lot brighter now (I could believe 40?) but still nowhere near 100. That is fine, I didn’t really want a 100 lumen 1 level AAA light anyway. But it’s odd that the light’s flat regulation in the runtime graphs I’ve seen didn’t equalize the brightness between the nimh and the lithium cell.

I do have some old (age-wise, but unused) eneloops around here so I guess I’ll put one in tomorrow and see if it’s any different.

Got my Pink Skilhunt E3A on Monday, together with my Brass Astrolux FT03.

The E3A was bought on Ali Express for S$10.98, or about US$8.10. Free shipping from China to Singapore. No sale tax.

All beautiful colours, but I like this Pink one the most.

Yeah I derped up badly by paying so much for shipping instead of noticing the free shipping offers on AE. Oh well. I like the light enough that I might buy some more at some point, and now I know where to get them.

anyone know how many lumens for the high CRI version?

I hope you have fun here, ming86!

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I found this old thread since I bought a few of these tiny lights to try some modifications.

The emitter swap is a piece of cake - no glue, no wires to solder. Take the old LED out with a hot air gun @300°C , put the new one in with low melt solder paste and the hot air gun at @200°C - done.

I realize that this answer is late, but still:

It is a LH351B 4000K / 90CRI running at 226mA, so ~86 LED lumens, ~75 OTF lumens.

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I have 2 Skilhunt E3A, one with neutral white led and other with high Cri led.
Neutral white have a little more power and high cri have a some percent of better battery life.
Both have better battery life with alkaline batteries than it is specified but when neutral white model discharge battery to the stage when flashlight wan’t turn on, when the same battery put in high cri model it turn on without problems and work.
I don’t know if it is about differencies in drivers or high cri model has lower Vf led?

Has anyone experimented running 10440 in this light? I understand it’s probably not recommended, it’s just that I’ve “seen” it done with other AAA style lights like the I3E EOS, AAA Tool, etc.

At spec it is up to 2V so probably will shine for few seconds :wink:

Between the E3A and Olight I3e, which one do you all think is the higher quality light?

I’m happy with the build and output of the high CRI Skilhunt. It’s also fairly stiff which means it’s not going to untwist and leave you with just a battery tube hanging off your keys.

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Yes it has very good build quality and u cant turn it on by accident having it in your pockets which i like.

If twisty lights are not unscrewed far enough, they can turn on in pocket…

here is an i3e video, showing how side pressure that cocks the head, can make contact w the body tube and turn on the light:

Here is a Fenix E01, its head rocks so easily, simply rolling the light on a table will turn it on and off:

Here is the Sofirn C01 doing the same thing (same driver and contacts design as the E01):

For these reasons, it is important to unscrew the head of a twisty far enough, about 1/4 turn, to prevent side pressure from turning on the light.

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Thanks all! Is there much of a difference as far as how the internal guts are put together between the i3e an E3A?

here are pics of an E3A mod to sw45k. The pill is metal and the driver is attached to the pill with a plastic clip.

And pics of an i3e mod to sw45k. The pill is plastic and the driver is attached to the pill with glue.

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I can assure you the Skilhunt does not turn on in the pocket with a half turn to the head. Those threads are tight.

If it’s just slacked off enough to kill the light, then it will come on, but that’s to be expected.

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is one of those builds considered to be more sturdy than the other?

Yes I just got my hands on my first E3A. TIIIIIIIIIIGHT is right.

Unfortunately I don’t have I3e, but I’m using E3A more then year now. In my pocket day by day and works well. Doesn’t turn on by itself, only it has a lot of scratches. Considering it is attached to keys it is normal :wink:

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I’ve had the i3eos on my keychain for over two years, and it works great. I use NiMH rechargeable batteries.
Both are great options.

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