Can someone help a brotha out! I have a skilhunt h03 and it stopped working on me. I took it apart several months ago and couldn’t get it working. I just tried again and it re wired the driver, switch, and the led. Now it powers on and goes through the different settings whenever I use a battery and manually place the wires on the back of the driver, however; when I put the battery in the tube and screw it all back together, nothing. Took the driver back out and tested it again and it works fine. The positive and negative ends of the battery are coming in contact with the springs, but no power. Is there supposed to be a washer on the inside holding the driver in place, this completing the circuit? I can’t figure this out? Perhaps the first time I took it apart I misplaced something? Any help is appreciated!
Not sure what the problem is. But one thing to check is that the driver has not clamped or cut a wire when installed and tightened down with the battery tube. This could have damaged one of the wires and possibly cause this intermittent behavior. I recall it being a little difficult to stuff all the wires in the driver compartment without one getting clamped.
I don’t think there was any washer or anything. I think the battery tube pressed down right on the driver.
Cool deal, I didn’t remember there being anything holding the driver in. Your right about there not being much room, plus you have to route the wires very carefully to avoid obstructing the led. I did not replace the wires, so I’ll see if that helps, a damaged wire makes the most sense
Yep, the battery tube is all that clamps the driver. Cheap, I know, and presumably why the maker threadlocks the tube to the head. It is pesky people like us who cause the trouble.
I have forgotten my own DOA HO3.
Now because of this thread, I’d like to ask help too!
See if you have continuity between the copper trace around the outside of the battery side of the driver and the end of the battery tube that makes contact with the tail cap.
The head on mine needs to be super tight to complete the connection. The thread lock remnants may fool you into thinking it’s fully tightened.
Thanks… I’ll try it tonight.
Edit: There is no continuity! What is the next step? It seems that the thread lock looks like it’s fully tightened indeed.
Without scratching the ano, how is this going to be done?
Well, I used two adjustable wrenches, one for the head and another in the square part of the tube, cleaned some debris and re-tightened and now it works!
So I’m pretty sure it’s a bad switch? I have the driver, switch, and star out of the host right now. When I put the + and - wires on the back of the driver, the led comes on but it’s super dim. Also, the red light is on. Also, the switch is acting like a momentary switch. The “click” is gone. So, I believe this to be a lost cause. The led and driver seem to be working correctly, however; I’m going to order a new driver and switch.
New question, what does everyone suggest to replace this skilhunt? A new skilhunt h04, Armytek? Any suggestions?
All depends on what are you looking for in a light, your preferences. Color temp? max lumens? throw vs flood? size/weight? For instance, length and weight in a 1×18650 headlamp matters a lot to me, and some popular lights are MUCH heavier and/or longer than others. I also need more throw than typical, so this rules out many popular models…
You could just modify an inexpensive Boruit D10 headlamp to what you want. I did and I’m very happy with it: Boruit Headlamp Review D10 (aka. EHL0628) - King of the Budget Headlamps?
I use my headlamp when our fishing, hunting, etc. I liked the feel of the skilhunt. It could always be brighter lol. Color temp neutral (right in the middle) of the range.
Why spend $20 for a light you’re going to have to mod when you can get one that is much higher quality and will do what you want out of the box for $20 more? This place has various flavors of H04 for $40 - $45. I’m waiting for an H04R RC from them now.
Best bang for the buck deal on 18650 headlamp I know of.