Anduril is open source. You can disable or enable what ever you want but it should be tuned properly according to hardware like all other soft.
Yes, exactly my point for flashing your own version, but only enthusiasts are going to do that. Disabling LVP for general users is never going to be a good idea
I was kinda disappointed with my Skilhunt. My H04RC died just over a year after purchase. After troubleshooting it with them, they offered to send me the circuit board, since it was cheaper than me shipping the whole flashlight to China. I gave them a couple of YouTube videos of how it won’t turn on. But that was the best they could do. Regret getting two lights from them.
…but this is stated on their website. I get that it’s disappointing, but this comes with buying direct instead of going local (if possible), even then you’d be responsible to ship it back to the store for inspection and repair. It’s not their fault shipping can be expensive back to China.
As a dealer they won’t send replacement units, only parts. This is the same for Mateminco, Convoy, Imalent, and many others.
I do agree that it would be nice.
Sofirn is the best company I’ve ever been a dealer for in terms of warranty, they will send a replacement and my contact will do so without needing proof. Can’t fault Convoy either, I just opt for parts due to no glue and easy as to repair.
Mateminco is among the worse to be a dealer for, they won’t honor any warranty as soon as I sell the flashlight. I found this out just recently when a customer’s flashlight had a faulty LED. Immediately pulled out dealing with them
Sorry, I don’t get… but I am no electronics pro. The discharge charts I know indicate that Lithium Ion batteries have almost no juice left at 3,4 V. If that… Battery charge percent … is similar in 18350 cells an indication at 3.4 would be more of a last warning before shutdown. However, as someone mentioned above the manual states that the warning starts at 3.0 V … which I think is rather too late than too early? Or am I not getting something?
If I don’t fasten my seatbelt the warning comes on at 20 mph and the doors lock. How can I change that to 65 mph? Who wants to buy my car? …… You can still use the battery when it’s below 3.4 volts but there’s very little power left. So skill hunt chose to keep reminding some people to go recharge the battery.
Thank you, that is very helpful! And it’s also very relevant to me, because I almost exclusively use the two low modes of the H04 mini. According to the tailcap measurement of zeroair that would be 0.02-0.04 Amps. It hard to ever get to a low voltage warning with that. I have just returned from a multiple day hike with lots of hours at night…. after return the indicator of the H04 mini still stated >75 % capacity (indicator constant blue).
Disadvantage of H04 driver is that you can use flashlight from 3V to 2.7V few hours more… but only with annoying low voltage warning blinks 
Helpful and interesting discussion. I have H04R RC and only use it in higher brightness modes so this shouldn’t be an issue for me, but asking to make sure I understand this. Per Funtastic’s test posted previously it’s only 31 minutes , not a few hours right?
I stumbled upon this thread because I’m on the fence about getting a skilhunt and sorting through past reviews. I didn’t know about this feature, but this definitely sells it for me.
I use headlamps for work and this is genius. You might think it’s impossible to miss the rapid low voltage stepdowm other headlamps have but when you’re constantly moving between working under a car with no light, popping out to 800w of overhead LED shop lighting, going inside to warm 9w led lighting, going outside to complete darkness because it’s 2am, back into the 800w garage, throwing a shade 11 welding helmet on for a couple minutes before going back into the dark again, and youre doing this for hours, it’s easy to forget what you had it set at and miss the stepdown. I literally switched turbo back on in a 21700 headlamp like 3 times literally just last night before I noticed.
And some people are grossly overestimating how much capacity is left at the time this flashing kicks in. Obviously it’s highly variable depending on the cell you’re using, but in general if OCV is <3.4V you’ve got like 2-7% capacity left and if you’re hitting 3V under load at 1-2C discharge in a high-ish capacity cell it’s about the same number. You aren’t losing out on hours of runtime.
I’ve had a skilhunt H04 for a number of years- not sure why I bought it originally, I think it was as a backup as I didn’t want t lose my ZL while travelling.
Really glad I got it, it’s lightweight, has a pretty good UI (I don’t like hold for off, but tolerate it on this light as it’s a headlamp which you’re typically not turning on and off frequently).
Mode spacing is good, headstrap is good, rubber holder for the light is good. Threads on the battery tube are nice. Stock TIR Lens pretty good for all-round use.
Highly rate it.
I’m thinking of getting another 21700 headlamp with the convoy h3s on sale now too. Im gonna wait and see if skilhunt ever does sales. I’ll get one eventually, I do see the appeal of the smaller size, but 18650 doesn’t get me enough runtime.
I’m not into 21700 as I’ve plenty of 18650 and don’t need another format so can’t advise on that front
Skilhunt used to be cheaper (maybe 2017ish era) so it would have been a no-brainer.
I’ve not seen that many skilhunt sales, maybe black Friday or 11.11 or a platform sale (10% off nealsgadgets/banggood/etc), but I’ve also not been searching that hard.
I’m sure the convoy lamps are also fine; if theres a sale I’ll probably pick one of the convoy headlamps up as a backup to my skilhunt!
Edit to add: I’ve long term plan to build a remote battery box for a headlamp for ultimate output + runtime… Some people here hate the concept 
Nice “false” graph. Heres a real accurate graph and it shows 3.4v at 1/3rd soc remaining or 2/3rds soc used up. So just switch all your 3500mah batteries over to 2000mah and enjoy your shorter runtime huh?
Also I have a standing offer if anyone LIKES this feature they can buy my lights. No takers so far only keyboard warriors.
I now use the lights as a lighted dog collar so I can find my dog at night. He doesnt mind the flashing beacon around his neck.
Oh and under firefly mode its probably only a .0000000000001c load so it should run for days instead of beacon mode.
You call Funtastic’s graph false yet you show a graph of some unidentified battery (it’s actually of a NCR18650B which is an old cell with high voltage sag compared to newer 3500mAh 18650s). Why don’t you show an actual 3500mAh 18650 like this Sanyo GA one
I’m not convinced you understand the difference between battery voltage under load vs. at rest. Your measured 3.4V is with the battery outside of the light with no load, not what the driver sees as it triggers the LVP flashing. The graph you posted is of the battery voltage under load. Now graphs of resting voltage vs capacity are hard to find for every battery but you can extrapolate from the discharge graph at 0.2A in the test I linked, At 3.4V you still get over 2800mAh of capacity,
They have an everpresent 6% BLF discount if you order on their website. Sometimes you can get a better deal on amazon or ebay if they have what you want stocked on those sites. They have an aliexpress store as well but don’t ever seem to run discounts there (and no 6% present there either unless maybe you message them to adjust the price).
Have you considered Hank’s DW4 with the boost driver? I don’t have that model myself but have several of his others with the optional boost driver. Very much improved with lower heat and much longer run times with nearly constant output for much of the capacity. Paired with a good cell with low sag, should be a big difference. He never does discounts but you get quality that punches above the price point. Not sure how it compares to the drivers in the Zebras, but those are excellent.
https://intl-outdoor.com/led-flashlights/emisar-dw4-right-angle-1-18650-work-light.html
Exactly how much voltage sag do you think there was under firefly mode? Nil?
Another nay sayer who doesnt buy my lights. YOU HAVE NO HORSE IN THE RACE!
Slap down $110 dollars and I will send you the lights to enjoy with your awesome 18650 “new-type” cells. I await your reply. I mean if you havent spent the money there is NO ROOM to talk. Send me the cash and you can be happy with the design flaw.
Tell you what, I will even give you a discount code to save 10. Use discount code “Irritating-flashing-strobe-light-battery-warning-design-flaw” to save 10.
BUT WAIT…………
Buy in the next ten minutes and get free shipping.
Thanks good to know. Ya I almost bought one of those emisars today if I hadn’t bought the convoy. But I can never settle on an emitter or if I want dual channel or the boost driver. You can get the boost driver with the 519a’s right? He doesn’t actually say. I’m leaning towards single channel domed 519s. I do like the option for bright turbo now and then tho. I wonder if he offers something in between the two. Like if the boost driver is 2amps per emitter can be do one with 3amps per emitter? Like as a halfway point between the current boost driver and nothing.
I wish it was just a 21700 headlamp tho because it’s the size of one already anyways. Why is it so much chonkier than the 18650 emisar flashlight?
Well I would’ve taken you up on that if you hadn’t said you attach them to your dogs lmao
Damn. That makes sense. They do seem like they’re priced a good bit more expensive than they should be. Like more than an emisar headlamp? With quad emitters and anduril? Really? But they aren’t prohibitively expensive or anything. I especially like 21700s because in Canada I can get the Molicel 21700s for an actual fair price. They’re cheaper than any decent 18650 shipped from the US…
I used to use 2 18650s in parallel in a headlamp with the box on the back of my head. It worked. Was kinda bulky lol
I have both the emisar and the skilhunt, the DW4 and the H04 are worlds apart, the DW4 is much bigger and heavier. I consider the DW4 a right-angle light with passable headlamp capabilities (still better than a basic strap to hold a tube-light though).
When I bought the DW4, I wrongly assumed that it would be a similar size to the H04.
Many people have no issue with the DW4 weight on their head, maybe they have a stronger neck than I do 
That said, I do quite like the DW4 as a work/task/occasional headlight, the mag tail is useful. The boost driver is the way to go in my opinion, higher sustained brightness and better efficiency, loss of burn-a-hole-in-your-pockets turbo mode not really an issue for me.
Bad UIs and drivers in general easily ruin otherwise good lights. The blinking main LED is not reasonable imo. Other weak spots noted on various lights are:
- long hold: You draw your light out of the pocket and are required to press a button for 3 or more seconds to get it out of a soft-lock. While you stay there, waiting for your light, others have long activated their phone-lights, making you look like an idiot.
- low temp limit: Your x-thousand lumens light steps down before it gets even warm.
- crap temp management: Watch your light going up and down between the extremes.
- EagTac speciality: Go through the modes just two times and enjoy all sorts of dico modes.
- TrustFire kills one of their best lights: The old T62 is an amazing light, fully regulated, sustains high output, high quality, 2 or 3 cells detection. But stobe and SOS in the regular mode set!
And it’s not getting better. Manufaturers have new ideas all the time to ruin their lights.