And how long it will flash on L1? 
and as a user i had 2 out of 2 failed, both fixed with new drivers, i did not return them either, does not mean they did not fail. thou mine are not 04rc, but 1 and 3.
Thank you for testing, Funtastic!
also doesn’t mean they’re all unreliable 
yea 2 out of 2 failed, 2 generations apart is a definition of not being reliable, enough for me to never consider them reliable.
As HKJ shows in his charts and graphs, the higher the amp draw is the faster you’re going to trigger the low voltage warning. Even if there is some capacity left. If you do the same test at 200 lumens (medium) or less, you will be able to use more of the battery capacity before the low voltage warning is triggered. I suspect that when it first triggers on H1, if you go to a much lower setting it will stop blinking. I’ve tested my H2R olight. With the battery at 4.0v when I turn it on to turbo, battery sag or voltage drop causes the light to blink off and then back on with voltage at 2.7v. Yes the battery is over 4 years old and it’s trying to put out nearly 2,000 lumens. Part of the issue is, where do you want a warning? At what voltage under what load? You’re not going to get everybody to agree.
I would guess it to not be as long as you think since it dims down to near moon only a little over 3v anyway.
I do agree that 1 blink every minute would be sufficient, but not often would you use a light that low for it to bug you very often
Was that the H04? Nothing is going to be 100% reliable though. Would you believe it that even the most reliable brands fail too?
And why it dims down to near moon ? At 3V it should output as min as 800mA. 
Its almost T1. Its a buck driver with 80+eff
I would have to check, but not sure I can be stuffed lol. It’s now 5:35am time for bed I think.
Had to test it otherwise that last graph of the H03 would have put anyone off interested in getting one.
That all sounds reasonable. Under some use conditions you might get different results. If the light was used intermittently and the battery is down to some level below where most people would recharge it already and it was cold and they tried to use a higher setting and it was a full moon, the low voltage warning would probably trigger sooner. By sooner I mean with a little more capacity still left in the battery. Don’t expect to get the same run times in cold weather.
Yes, I agree. The test was to match the graph of the H03 to show those interested that it doesn’t apply to the H04.
True, but based on my experience I will not take another chance with skilhunt. why would i? , why would anyone? there are so many brands that i did not have bad experience with. 2 lights 2 generations apart, (not same deflective batch , or run) years apart, many improvements apart, yet both failed the same way. so i’ll just pass on the brand all together. however i will still buy it when i want to build a custom light, skill’s h0xx are the best for that purpose. that i would give a huge credit to whoever designed it. electronic part however, meh
Are you really missing out and is it 3.4V under load or 3.4V when you take the battery out?
It will bounce up when not under load so make no false assumptions.
….
5%———3.45V
0%———3.00V
I do agree that it’s annoying with this behavior in firefly mode though.
I have an H03… and frankly when the low voltage alert came up, it was correct—it was time to charge the battery, or replace it. I didn’t check to see if it happens on firefly mode… yeah, that would be annoying, given such a light load.
There is also the matter of this being a headlamp. Consider someone trying to get out of a cave and had misjudged their battery use—down to just one. The firefly mode should override LVP, considering it emergency use, and that damaging the battery is a fine tradeoff for a light source in dire need.
As nice as that would be, there’s some clueless people out there who would try charging a cell even if it’s over discharged. Even if there was a warning in the manual, those get lost and the light gifted to a friend etc. Someone’s hand getting blown off certainly isn’t going to sit well for a companies reputation due to an unsafe cell. The safest is for cavers to buy a headlamp/flashlight that suits their task
I’ve come across so many customers who are shocked to learn that they shouldn’t be discharging till the light dies. Had one customer message quite annoyed that his Convoy C8+ starts flashing at 2.8 volts, is it faulty? No, that’s the low voltage warning to stop the cell discharging too low, what do you mean?..…
Why not put the switch on the other side of the head so the indicator is visible when wearing the light? I’ve decided that even though I’m right handed to clip my H04 mini with the head to the left so I can see the indicator when I’m wearing the light.
If that makes you happier I’ll tell you AceBeam H40 does exactly the same. When voltage is 3.4V or less.
In practice that makes you can only use 2/3 of your tiny 14500 battery.
Yack, this is why I’ve bought another light.
It seems, people who design UI don’t use it. I think the same way low-mid-high-strobo-sos got spreaded.
Well that is a whole other topic… li-ion for newbies. This whole LED flashlight community around li-ion power is fine when everyone has a certain baseline understanding of li-ion dangers and proper care. Of course, the maker should put in a provision in the charging firmware, to detect if a cell has gone into deep discharge and simply refuse to charge it.
What’s to stop someone charging the cell in an external charger, most will charge up a 0v cell
Skilhunt, Fenix, Nitecore etc basically all brands except BLF versions aren’t just going to be for sale for this community though. Even BLF versions are available to anyone also, so it’s always good to play it safe.
Just like Anduril firmware you can’t disable the thermal regulation like you could with NarsilM because manufacturers said they didn’t want anyone blaming them for something going wrong. Anduril was designed for this community, but is still available on flashlights anyone can purchase.
If you want that kind of behavior it’s best to stick with AA’s or models that only use primaries. If using lithium you can flash custom firmware.