Hey!
I got a “old” sky ray 3xT6 (2x 18650, “3800 Lumens”) as a gift…
on the tail cap I measure 1,6 Amps with full batteries (2 different manufacturers)
driver has one coil and a big capacitor if that helps…
is there a way to:
a) improve the amps
b) get rid of the disco?
thanks for helping!
Don’t use 2 different batteries in a light that requires cells in series. Bad things can happen (fire, explosion, etc).
If it’s the light I’m thinking, it’s a very nice quality flashlight. The driver can be resistor modded to increase the drive current.
Disco is a tough fix. Werner figured out a very cool mod on a 3up TF iirc. Dunno I you can do it to this one or not (over my head). I would just get a new driver.
I tested the amps with two sets of batteries - not mixed them 
eagtak 2500mah and weiss 2600mah
each of that 4 does the 3A in my UF-T8 with kd-driver
do you have a link to the mods?
This is the trustfire mod, different driver. Perhaps someone could do something with the skyray.
Resistor mod is a suggestion a member gave to me… I have it bookmarked on my home pc. Haven’t tried it yet, semester has been hectic.
Most of the mods for the SRK
A. If driver is a FET type, resistor mod to boost the amps
B. Thicker wire from driver to emitter (allow more current and less voltage loss)
C. Solder braid on the negative springs to allow more current for normal “boosted” currents…for crazy high currents like 12+ some people are actually stripping the solder mask over the traces and soldering over the traces on the end caps to thicken them to allow even more current
There are also a few developmental SRK driver boards…I know the 32*7135 Nangj style board works but there is still on going tweaking of the FET based direct drive SRK board
Warhawk, this is not a SRK type light.
The light mentioned in OP have batteries in series and completely different design..
I have resistor modded both a Sky Ray 3xT6 (3800 lumen). A light I consider the TR-3T6`s big brother (larger head, and beefy stainless steel bezel), and a regular TR-3T6. With all the differences in the driver circuits that comes with these lights, its best to take some pictures and get some help, or read up on resistor modding and do some experimenting. Most of these lights can be resistor modded. The Sky Ray light I resistor modded was not as mod friendly as the typical "standard" driver in a TR-3T6 though...
Ah ok…long thin battery tube…gotcha
sorry about that
M4D M4X. What is the heat sinking like on your light. A lot of the SkyRays in 3 led format had poor heatsinking. Does yours have a screw in pill? If not it may be best to leave it the way it is.
it is the (first) one with the screw-in Pill as far as i can see….
(longer Head than the drop-in ones)
unfortunately i found only german threads with working pictures.
i will make some by myself and upload them here.
this Thread is about the same Light… Review: Sky Ray 3800 3 x XM-L
some pictures…
maybe someone can identify the driver and give me hints for mods
(moar power and less disco ;))
LEDs
Diameter of Wire AND Insulation…
there is NO pill!
LEDs are mounted direct to the Head (“base” is about 3mm thick)
Driver
Looks like the same driver as in the light I modded for a local guy. I dont have the light anymore. Modded it earlier this year..
Like mentioned, its not that mod friendly. First you have to split the driver... Then you get access to some resistors that are limiting current.
You see R068 and R130. On my driver I added 3xR120 in parallel. That bumped emitter current from about 1,3 to 3,07A to each emitter. Drain from two batteries in series were then around 4,9Amp after that mod. Since the light is properly regulated that number will increase as battery voltage gets lower.
The issue with resistor modding the driver, is that it can behave a bit "sketchy". If you have it on a mode for some time, it can refuse to change mode, unless you turn the light on and off again.
I lowered the emitter current below 3A, but still had the issues. Depending on how you use the light you might never see the issue. It does not happen right away. I did a fair amount of testing if it had any reliability issues, and I did not run into any. Owner have never mentioned it, he was aware of the issue..
There are alternative drivers in case you mess it up, or want to avoid blinky modes. I am not aware of any drivers that will give you emitter current in the 2,5-3A range without resistor mods and such.. Having two batteries in series and 3 emitters is probably the least attractive emitter to battery combo when it comes to have good choices in high output driver circuits..
I also upgraded the emitters to 3x XM-L2 U2 1A and de-domed one of the emitters.
thanks!
dedomed one emitter ?
how does the beam change? made you beamshots?
No beamshots of that light..
See this thread for beamshots of various lights with mixed emitters.
More about tint mixing here.
Do you have any links to those drivers?
I have a triple emitter Fandyfire G36 that I really like. If I could find a driver that has no memory, always starts on high, and has no blinky modes, I would be even happier.
Most of the triple emitter drivers I found require 3 cells, or have the same 5 modes with memory that I already have.
3 mode driver with no blinky stuff..
http://kaidomain.com/product/details.S020121
Double check dimensions with your light.
It will give you about 2 amp to each emitter from 2 cells in series. Mode changing is a bit slow, and its got some PWM whine..
Its possible to resistor mod for higher output.
Found HKJs review for that driver.
Might be just what I need.
I changed the wires (between LEDs and down to the driver)…
but Amps did not rise :_(
i saw the resistors where the mod should be made - but i have to get parts …
btw: is it possible to use a 100 Ohm Potentiometer?
like that…
Changing out wires to heavier gauge probably will not help by itself for a light like this. Or, you may measure same amps but you may have improved the loss's going to the LED's, so may be more brighter. However, 1.6A tail means 3.2A between 3 LEDS, about 1A per LED - wires probably don't make any measurable difference at 1A.
If you crank up the amps though, it should then help.
how do you calculate the amps?
2 cells in series, and if you measure 1.6A at the tail, that means 3.2A effective at about 4v. Each LED is about 4v, so, divide 3.2A by 3... Not sure if this explanation is what you meant... There are some loss's, depending on the driver, etc., so loss's may be very low or significant, at most maybe 20% or so.