Are you going to order a King then? :) Also, when you said there's probably not going to be flat regulation, are you basing that because its a budget light or on some other reason?
Can anyone with the J12 and KING make a beamshot comparison of the 2 please? Oldiena?
Doh. Mine (ordered the 1st day) got stuck in customs. Can get it tomorrow.
I think it’s because it’s something like a “triple driver” on one PCB, each driver drives each LED; or maybe it could be a single driver, but since they are wired in parallel they will never receive the exact same current due to lightly differences between every LED. It’s not noticeable.
I share your feeling 
you guys aren't making it easy for me to ignore this light :P
Hi folks...since there are a number of great thread here, I didn't know which to post to, so I'll just post in this orginal one. I just received my Skyray KING and in mint condition from Manafont. With all the great photos around, there is no point in me posting any, but I will get a couple of mouse-over photos tonight posted to show the difference between the KING, Ultrafire UF-T70, and the DRY NW beam shots.
Great! Looking forward to seeing those.
Thanks for your efforts!
Well, at least my Redilast 3100's fit no problem. This light will not turn on unless it is fully screwed down. The reflector, as a whole, is the exact same size as the DRY, only on the KING, the reflectors are slightly closer into the center. It's not dark here yet, so I'm not sure how this will affect the beam.
Mine does seem to have the switch issue, not always turning off and requires a second press. Not all the time but I don't intend to send it back or anything. I'm also amazed at the small size of this light. The switch itself is great. No crazy half-presses to change modes like the TM-11. Just press and the business end comes to life. The semi-hidden strobe mode is finally a step forward with these lights. While turned on, press and hold for several seconds to activate strobe.
Good to hear, Rich!
Okay folks, all brand new labeled photos for you so there's no mistaking what you're seeing. I've put the Skyray KING up against the DRY NW, and the Ultrafire UF-T70. They are all so similar, it's really hard to say which is brighter, so I'll leave it up to you to decide.
To keep the playing field level, in spite of the DRY being NW, each light took turns using my set of Redilast 18650-3100's. After each beam shot was taken (on a tripod) the batteries were topped off back to 4.2v each.
Lastly, the beams may appear as if they may be pointing down towards the lawn, they are not. Each hotspot is dead-center on the shrubs. Photos were resized for posting, no other manipulation was performed on any of them.
Any of these lights are worth purchasing. Likely the KING will be my favorite due to the side clickie and super small size.
The hand-hold is suprising comfortable in spite of the unusual design.
The Aluminum/Stainless Cree was placed in the photo below just to have a pic of it, no beam shots were taken for it.
Would I buy each of these three flashlights again if I could do it all over, you bet I would in a second.
I can't tell you how happy I am with each one of them. I only hope the KING's driver doesn't give me
any issues. It looks like it would be a big problem replacing it. Other than that, it's a keeper.
Skyray KING Vs. DRY (Mouse Over For DRY NW Turbo)
Ultrafire UF-T70 Vs. Skyray KING (Mouse Over For KING)
DRY NW Vs. Ultrafire UF-T70 (Mouse-Over for Ultrafire)
A few observations:
- The KING has a noticeable doughnut hole compared to the others
- The UF-T70 has most throw
- DRY has best tint and beam profile
I'm curious how the DRY CW would compare (that's what I own)
Great shots Richie - I wish you would have had the Trustfire TR-J12 so I could have seen all of them together. Right now, all I have is the Dry. The T70 did better than I thought it would against the others. Pretty impressive. I'm curious where the J12 would fall in between these competitors.
Damn, I'm getting more and more anxious for mine! Apparently CNQG has a warehouse in Singapore-that's where it's coming from.
If the driver flames out, I'll just 7135 it and worry about the switch if that happens.
Rich
thanks for posting those. nice job, too.
Great pics!! thanks for sharing.
I was thinking if the board fails, go the multi-7135 route. Hardest part would be finding a panel mount switch that drops into the hole to go in-line with -B. You could also probably bypass the switch and use the body as a twisty.
looks like a great light though!! I went a different direction, single XML + 26650 route... but I've got this one on radar! watching to see what the DIY modders can come up with too.
weiser701...I think you hit the nail on the head with your observations. I had my doubts about the KINGs reflectors being more centered than the others, I would imagine that is the cause for the slight donut hole. The Ultrafire reflectors are quite a bit larger than the others, no doubt accounts for its better throw.
I'd like to know the answer to that one too. I would have purchase the J12, but then these smaller form factor lights hit the market, so that's what I ended up going with. The J12 is under-driven but has 5 LED's, maybe someone that views this thread will chime in for an estimate of where the J12 fits within this group of lights.
Can someone give me a bit of advice checking the tail reading on my KING? I assembled some high end silicone wiring soldered to neodymium magnets in order to secure them to the negative battery terminals. It was difficult to make this measurement, but on HIGH I get 5a. I can't be completely sure all batteries were in full contact with the positive end, but I did my best.
Batteries were Redilast 3100's fully charged to 4.2v each. Here is a photo of my contraption. I also don't know if the magnets were affecting the readings.
Is 5a a low reading for a parallel battery configuration?
Nice comparison pics Richie086!
The KING has a donut on the center, that is notorious in the pics, and the DRY has the nicest beam pattern, but I'm a bit skeptical about the brightness... Were all the pics taken with the same camera settings? I mean, always the same exposure, ISO, White Balance and that type of settings.
That’s weird… maybe the resistance of the magnets? Maybe the test leads you are using (try with thick wires only, directly on the DMM). It is not easy to measure tailcap current with this flashlight… maybe the best thing to do is put the DMM directly to the driver at one LED.