Should be around $40 total. Mr. Tao looks like a broker, it’s not possible to know the exact cost besides estimation, as the website takes money for the light first, then it’ll go get the light & weight the box, buyer needs to send another payment in for shipping later once it’s determined.
Also, website asked for paypal fund transfer first, once money gets into Mr. tao, you apply toward the light. I am not sure this two step transaction still offers same level of paypal protection as direct purchase. However, paypal protection is useless on int. returns anyway, as return to China with tracking is only possible by express mail, cost about $40.
As long as I get a light, I’ll consider it a success
Initially I didn’t think a parallel 3AA eneloop power source can deliver the wattage needed to drive an XML at full capacity. An XML needs about 9.5W to get it humming at ~2.8A. The 3-AA cells would need to deliver almost 8A of current, at 1.2V. Eneloops top out at ~3-3.5A before voltage sag. With 3P cells, that 8A current draw gets split/shared 3-ways. So 8A / 3 = 2.66A per cell, which is totally in the power range for eneloop cells.
It would have to buck 4.2V down to XML-Vf, and conversely boost ~1.2V up to XML-Vf while maintaining ~9.5 Watts.
Looks like a solid little contender, it would all depend on the efficiency of the driver though.
Ahhh… So this is why we all suffer? It must be good its the only 24 karat celebration gold host
among the rest of the green and stealth black surrounding it…
MF - If you do decide to deliver send the correct light…Your listing describes another B&S…oops…another
light,
It looks like -Vbatt conducts through the threads, so no power lock-out feature. Thats one strike against in my book, because I usually pack-carry lights this size.
The KING is a copy of a branded light (well, the copy is better than the original)… But this is another copy of a copy xD
I’m not going to buy it but I would really like to see pictures of the QUEEN side by side with the KING.
Yeah but look what CNQG says:
Mode instruction: Press and hold the side switch for more than 2 seconds,the light turn on and into high brightness mode, fast click the side switch to switch the lightness mode between high and low. When the light is on,fast double click the switch access Strobe mode, and light will be turned off by pressing and holding the switch for more than 2 seconds.
In my experience, the switch sin’t pressed accidentally for more than two secs… but yes, the twisty lock could be necessary in some cases.
That does help a little to lessen the worry. I’m a bit side switch shy when a light doesn’t have lockout. My ZL SC60 came on in my pocket a few times. The last time it did it got so hot before I figured out what the pain was that I had 1st degree burns on my leg. Since then I have never forgotten to lock it out at the tail.
Edit: In a light like this with an electronic switch, lockout is also important to me for reducing parasitic drain on the cells. Unless I am actively using it I always lockout the light so the cells don’t drain. My UF-H2 taught me that lesson in just a couple weeks of no use. When I did need it there was nothing left.
I made the same assumption, but I over-looked the 3-Parallel cell arrangement.
According to this thread here I don’t think 1000 OTF lumens is possible. 1000 bulb lumens would be possible if the LED can get ~14 Watts. So either scenario to me seems very unlikely. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/2346
Theoretically speaking and assuming a 100% efficient circuit…
In order to generate ~800 bulb lumens, a T6-XML needs about 9 watts (2.8A x 3.2V = 8.96W)
To get 9W from 3AA(parallel Eneloop):
9W / 1.2V = 7.5A from the 3-parallel cells
Divided 3 ways:
7.5A / 3AA = 2.5A per AA
An Eneloop AA can deliver ~3-3.25A before it starts to sag. So in terms of power capacity (assuming a near-perfectly efficient circuit) 3AA cells are capable of delivering the 9W.
It all depends on the driver circuit though, and I wouldn’t expect a circuit efficiency much greater than ~85%.
It would be a REALLY KILLER design though if it maintained 8-9W from 1.2 - 4.2V, with an 80% efficiency… I am not sure if this is even possible. Its definitely rare and not a common circuit design.
PS can someone please correct me on the points above?… thanks in advance
Eneloop (or nimh in general) do fine at 5A draw. Less capacity but that’s to be expected. The question with this light how much it draws. Too high might not be good idea since as design decision folks might want to use AA alkalines in them. If that’s the case 2A draw is max. So 1.2v*3*2A=7.2W-20%loss (at least) = <6W.
The shame is that it’s 2 levels only so it doesn’t have high for nihm and med for alkaline or 1.5v single-use lithiums (which are like 1.5A-3A draw max).
The queen and rook likely share same boost driver. I think a better design choice would be 4 batteries like King. Most packs come in 4’s anyway, along with chargers, and it would be 25% more power for not that much bigger.
It’d likely need 6AA like the Fenix TK41 to get the same brightness as the three 14500’s.
That being said, even 300-400 lumens would be lots for a nonflasholic and still lots of light for day to day use. I don’t know that I’d run three 14500’s but I’d run the 14505’s which are sold at BatteryJunction and there a 3 volt lithium primary in AA size.
