The HD-1 is indeed smaller but i have had a couple of instances that it turned on while clipped to inside of pocket.
Once it heats up you will be jumping out of your seat to get it out of pocket. Since it has no clickie it can activate very easy with lite pressure. Prefer SE-1 or Eo3 plus 14500’s are very tight in the HD-1.
In a worst case, yes that could happen. A 14500 Li-Ion cell just isn’t an appropriate power source if you’re trying to push 2A+ through a LED.
I don't have EO3 but have compared with my friend. the form factor of HD-1 is shorter and smaller. the beam still has some intense hotspot. not all flood. there are 3 thorough reviews of HD-1 in BLF.
it use piston drive. the latest revision is able use 14500 but agree, it is really tight and might not fit for the lengthy PCB proctection.
i never experience accidental turn on. because basically it's a clicky with noticable click feel and movement. not just a light tap/touch. maybe in yours, the head is loose (battery not in contact) and while clipped inside pocket somehow the head is twisted into fit and activate the electric circuit.
It’s starting to look like the e03 is still the smallest and brightest in it’s price range ($25 to $35) maybe one of the Balders (HD-1, SE-1) would be a close or even competitor, but I don’t see anything that flat out beats the e03 for the price.
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That said now I’m comparing some lights in the next price level ($40 to $60) and I think it’s going to be between one of the D25’s and the ZL SC52, (unless someone has another recommendation to throw in the mix). But at the higher price they must have advantages over the e03. Thinking about the Eagletac D25 clicky’s in aluminum. I’m leaning towards a D25 since SC52 doesn’t have NW available yet, but I’m not ruling the ZL out yet either.
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And this whole subject has me taking a glimpse in a different (battery type) direction, the 16340, seeing the D25c is both shorter and thinner than an e03.
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It looks like the D25C is brighter than the D25A on regular batteries. Factory specs shows both at the same output on Li-Ion cells. And both are smaller than Xeno eo3. Unfortunately they lose the lower modes functionality when running on Li-ion/IMR and I don’t like buying batteries. So with Li-ion/IMR they are brighter and smaller than the e03, but kind of useless with no good lower modes.
I an curious though if the D25c on a CR123 (358lm rated) would be close to being bright as the e03 on a 14500 (490 Lumens OTF rated)
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I really want to like the Eagletac’s, especially since I’ve read this (and similar) descriptions of their NW tint: “the 4500k neutral white tint is a VERY nice neutral white, It looks almost exactly like the output from a Nichia 219 4500k 92 CRI, but much brighter” Disappointingly it doesn’t seem like they would be fully functional with rechargeable cells. So that brings me back to the ZL SC52 and either waiting for the NW version or just try it in CW, but I really prefer neutral tint for an EDC light.
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Hi,
I have both an SC52 and a D25A Ti Clicky. I know the D25A is a CW, because they didn’t have a NW (which I would’ve preferred) when I bought it. I don’t remember what the SC52 is, but I think it’s CW also, because I don’t think they had a NW at the time I bought it.
Anyway, I was out last night, and comparing both, on Eneloop and on 14500s, and it looked to me (just eyes) that both were about the same, but the SC52 was more floody, whereas the D25A was more throwy.
Again, this was just eyeballing their beams, in my back yard, both on their highest/turbo modes.
Jim
single AA (use alkaline/nimh) light mostly are the similar in term of brightness. the different feeling is due to the beam pattern that give user a feel of brighter when comparing one to the other (some people think bright hotspot means brighter which not always true).
but using 14500 will change the competition map. and HD-1 is not really good in this case, unless you want to use it only <5 minutes on high mode with 14500. the body is just unable to handle the heat.
in their website, they said it is a NW.
http://www.mybalder.com/news/html/?327.html
anyway, have you take a look on sunwayman V11A? need to be considered too if the budget has increased.
Thanks for the reply. My e03 really does have a nice combination of flood/throw, and I don’t think I’ve ever needed to use high (turbo) mode for five minutes, so that shouldn’t e a problem with any choice, short bursts up to one or two minutes is fine for the turbo mode.
I couldn’t find the Sunwayman V11A, only found Crelant V11A. There is a Sunwayman V11R that runs 16340 (or 14500 with ext. tube) it looks great however at $85 to $95 that one is up another level or two in price range from the D25/SC52 and more than i’d be willing to spend right now. The D25 an SC52 are in the next level I’m currently looking at now (from $40 to $60) up from the specs in my OP.
Thanks for posting that comparison, very helpful.
Thanks Xiotis, you’re right about the ZL SC52 and I’m am now considering that one as well but I’m putting it in a Higher (price) category from the specs in my OP. I’m now considering a new light in this next level (From $40 to $60) since it now appears the e03 can’t be beat in it’s price range.
I looked online at the Nitecore EA1 and it would be in this next price level as well, however at 180LM it is not even as bright as the e03 (please correct me if I’m wrong and its higher on 14500?) Also I feel the head on that one is too thick. And the clip I guess is not so much intended for pocket use as much as for maybe clipping on a hat brim? I say that because it looks like clipped in pocket about half the light would be sticking up out of the pocket. Also no offense to anyone who owns one but to me it just looks ugly.
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You are right the ThruNite Archer 1A is too long, as my specs are for a light the same or smaller size than the e03. I’m sure it is a quality light and it looks very nice, however again at 178LM it also is not even as bright as the e03? (I had a hard time trying to find the output spec on 14500).
I tried reading about it on the review on here by Kreisler but to me it’s slightly confusing to understand his review with so much wording: 
“Or in words, D25A(on a full Eneloop) is brighter than Archer(full) which in turn is brighter than D25A(empty) which in turn is brighter than JR30(full) which in turn is brighter than BA10(full) which in turn is about as bright as JR30(empty) which in turn is brighter than Archer(empty) which in turn is brighter than BA10(empty). In other words, on a full Eneloop the Archer is one of the brightest (only second to the Eagletac which is the top brightest), and on a depleted Eneloop one of the dimmest (only second to the Jetbeam which is the dimmest)”
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No Offense to Kreisler it’s a very informative review, guess I just have a short attention span! It is an interesting light and I’ll have to try reading his review again sometime.
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sorry for the typing error, I meant sunwayman v10R that can use AA with extender tube.
You should always operate your light within the parameters of the type of battery you’re using.
You can safely use a single 14500 to run a 2 amp+ LED as long as you use an IMR battery with high discharge rate.
AW IMR 14500s are rated to safely discharge up to 4 amps. But be aware at that rate you’ll only get 9 minutes of light, and the light will heat up very fast.
Let me guess…
You live your life an IMR 14500 at a time, nothing else matters. Not the emitter, not the metal it’s made from, not the forum and all the online nonsense. For those 9 minutes (or less)… You’re free?
:bigsmile:
LMAO
easy Toretto….
I never narc’d on nobody! haha
You know, I had the exact same dilemma you have Op. I wanted something in 14500 but brighter than the e03 but same size. I did a lot of research and found out that there are 18650 lights that are the same size as the E03, but 2x brighter. The DQG 18650 is the one I settled on and it’s actually smaller than the Eo3 at around 500 of lumens. Another one is the niconature S10. Found also at CNQualitygoods website as well, with not much difference in size. Just my two cents.
You are absolutely correct, and I have been thinking the very same thing. In fact I am going to get the DQG 18650, I almost pre ordered one last week but decided to wait for some kind of review or feedback on it. Also it is about exactly the same price as a e03 and it has option for NW.
I was just thinking last night after typing a reply on this thread that with so many different lights now coming out smaller and smaller in different battery sizes maybe I should be thinking about which BATTERY type is best instead of which light is best in a specific battery class.
And between the three main Li-ion types suitable for a hi power pocket light (14500, 16340, 18650) the 18650 would have the best capacity due to size and mAh rating? (Correct me if I’m wrong on this)
So that took me in a new direction of thinking on this subject and the DQG was the first thing I thought of. It looks like an 18650 light may just be the outcome of the initial purpose for this thread.
And I remember looking at the niconature S10 recently as well, I will take another look at that one too.
Now I will search for a thread on “Smallest / Brightest 18650 light”!
haha, thats the exact name of my own thread i made some months ago:
Theres alot of 18650’s listed in that thread a couple of posts down all listed with lenght x width in MM so you dont have to go searching through chinese websites trying to find that info. Was hoping some day that thread would help someone else.
I did alot of research. there are some 14500’s brighter than an e03 (but not much), but they are far more expensive and they dont run for very long.
As for the quality of the DQG 18650, from all the things ive read about their other flashlights, they are top quality. I didnt hesitate once i found they werre making the DQG 18650, i pulled that trigger the minute they were available. Only thing is that its a twisty, and not a clicky. Cant get a clicky that small becuase of the size of a switch. So im delving into the realm of twistys to see how I like them.
Too funny, I just did the search only one thread came up, then I laughed when I saw you started it!
I also have been looking at the Olight S20 for a few weeks now, even though it’s a little longer than the e03, I really like the form of it and the side switch. Unfortunately It’s not available in NW and I’ve read some posts about an ugly green tint. A little hard to resist just grabbing one though at this price:
http://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/Olight-S20-BATON-Cree-XM-L-LED-Flashlight/803660_720977100.html
This is the same seller where I bought my Black Shadow Terminator, but I got it from their website not on Ali.
Hahhaha.
Still, that’s what brightness settings are for. With a DrJones driver installed I have 16 different brightness settings and can ramp both directions by holding the button down. I also have instant shortcuts to minimum, 10% and 100%. The light also zooms and has decent throw in spot mode.
as the option range has widened, here's an alternative for those who expect assurance of realibility.
http://www.eagletac.com/html/d25lc2m/index.html
:)
damm, I read this whole thread in one hit….
result, the 18650 light thats been in my pocket for months would suit fine once a qlite driver is fitted :~
I’m actually venturing into 16340 lights (something I said I wouldn’t do…) the sub 2a limit is already bugging me to be honest, particularly since I edc both an 18650 tube light and an 18650, p60 sized light ( cnqg d4 or d5, convoy m1 or roche f8 in fasttech terms). Result of my investigation, I have a tlf mini 02 coming and have found an xp-g host that takes 16340 cells so it’ll be a de chipped qlite driver at 1.7a, xp-g2 3d. Should be fun at least.
Edit, to answer sorantaz, I do like reliability, that’s why I build my own lights, I get high quality at budget prices, check the forum name before suggesting you have to blow a wad to get a light that switches on reliably