Have you tried using a higher power ramp shape. Right now I’m using a seventh shape with my drivers, which have higher resolution than usual anduril drivers, I can adjust the levels on the lower part of he ramp very easily, I might actually go for sixth of fifth because the ramping is a little slow on the lower part. (17 levels under 1mA, 39 levels under 10mA)
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Of course stepless ramping doesn't get you exactly level 2 or 4.
It's called "stepless" ramping for a reason.
Andúril offers stepped ramping for those that want it.
If you don't like stepless ramping, that's fine, but it isn't "for marketing only."
Don't be ridiculous.
I don't like really large flashlights, but I don't call them "for marketing only."
Some people like really large flashlights.
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I’m glad you asked! Hopefully I’m not in the minority wanting to see an Anduril HS05.
Maybe some of the work on the SP10 Pro can translate over.
Anduril would be great but I also like Sofirn’s regular ramping firmware - whichever it is, a good ramping behavior is very nice to have.
It would be awesome to have a good buck driver in a small headlamp that is in an affordable price range. Some of us use headlamps for longer periods of time, where we might not use a handheld flashlight the same way, and having sustainable regulated output levels would be a huge benefit - it’s one of the biggest asked-for features on lights by so many people (enthusiasts and general public both).
One thing I would like to see in dual-emitter angle lights for headlamps is to move the spot beam emitter to the inside of the light - so that it is closer to the center instead of on the outside. It can be annoying to look at an offset beam sometimes, especially when worn for longer periods, so the closer to center of the forehead is much better (my opinion and many others have mentioned this as a reason not to use angle headlamps). In this case, the flood emitter is swapped and is on the outside/upper end of the light, where it can still do its job just fine and the beam angle offset is not an annoyance at all. I think this small design change would have large benefits and would not cost anything to implement. I will be swapping the positions of the emitters in the Wurkkos headlamp I recently bought.
Better quality elastic band, too, please, and one with slotted buckles so a top band can be easily removed without cutting or removing stitching if the user desires. An offset mount would be nice, too, something like what Trustfire offers for their smaller 16340 headlamp (WC12 I think?). Silicone loops or a silicone sleeve like the Trustfire, or a secure open clip design, either way, but that offset is a great idea. That and moving the spot emitter closer to center would be fantastic for angle headlamps.
I think the button should stay on the end instead of the side - allows both right handed and left handed people to wear the light how they like it.
Yes please! A 14500 size or dedicated headlamp would be great. 2 emitters one for flood and one for throw. The flood should be a high CRI emitter and the throw should be a high efficiency emitter. Have the snap in, hard style holder, not the silicone rings that always break.
It’s the first parameter in level_calc.py, by default it’s cube shape.
For example in Fw3a cfg you only have 11 ramp levels before 10mA (with 1x7135 10mA= PWM level 7.28 ), so the low levels ramp up pretty fast, with a higher exponent it’ll be slower, there will be repeated PWM levels though because of the lack of resolution.
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I would be fine with Anduril on SP40. My only complaint is all the headlamp / angle designs emphasize throw even the SP40A optic is 8⁰. I would prefer SP40 w/ Anduril w/ Beaded TIR 60⁰+ optic.
With a light on my head I want to see everything directly in front of me not everything 100m in front of me and only a small area directly in front of me and then get smacked in the head with a hanging branch. Maybe just me.
Or sell a light and have it come with multiple optics like SP40 (for example) and get reflector, throw TIR, flood TIR and now you can put whatever one you want in it for a given circumstance.
Can he get the hs40 in anduril in 2700K Samsung h351 and floody Optic?
Well said. And you’re not alone. That’s what I hate on the SP40(A), the beam is way too narrow.
Almost forgot I have a HS10 on the way. Curious to see how that performs with that fresnel optic. Was curious about that and it weighs only 37 gr (excl battery). Also HS05 is nice size wise, but needs more flood.
Sofirn, make a headlamp like the Lumintop HL3A with Anduril. Make it about the same price.
Or make a T-shape like the D10 with triple TIR and Anduril, 18650 size please.
You just have to modify the sp40/A a little bit. Move the LED closer to the bezel and put a nice beaded lens on there with a nice wide smooth beam pattern out to 120°. That will make room for a type-C charging port that you make waterproof even if you damage the rubber flap. Keep a 2700k, 4000k and 5000k high cri option. Make a deep carry clip that’s almost flush with the tail. Study the olight mount. Keep the springs on both ends. The switch is a little tough with some gloves on but it’s not prone to accidental activation so I would keep it. Add the cutout for a lanyard in the tail cap. All that with Anduril 2 is a hit.
I actually really like the Sofirn HS05. I know Sofirn likes the LH351D so I won’t ask for other LED, but for me the perfect right-angle headlamp from sofirn would be
- AA/14500 form factor like HS05
- Anduril 2.0 (as you are offering in this thread)
- 4000K or 2700K temp LED (High CRI must)
- TIR lens for WIDE beam, not spot/throw
- and ensure that flashing pads are accessible for update of Anduril firmware.
Personally, I’d be happy with a SST-20 4000k triple with a 3A buck driver for excellent regulation, good throw, and excellent color rendition.
However, a good AR lens with a slight green coating to take out some of the green would be great overall 
Nichia 519
No top strap
Floody optic
Multiple battery tubes
No lighted switch
No external charge port
I could not have said this better. This is perfect. Please include a magnetic tailcap and a good headband too. It should have a removable top strap and plastic clip to snap the light in and out of (like Skilhunt H04 RC, Armytek Wizard, Fenix HM61R), instead of rubber loops that are difficult. If it is a dedicated headlamp rather than a right-angle light, there is no need for a magnetic tailcap or plastic headband clip.
I would prefer a tail e-switch 18650 tube light with Anduril.
Dude I LOVE the Lumintop Hl3A. Just has one flaw- the bezel ring that holds in the optic has an inside diameter that is exacly the same size as the optic!! So that means with just the right bump the optic will fall out. Unless it was a mchining error, Somebody goofed in the design phase. I wonder how many are like that?
I guess 2 flaws: The clip is a joke. Won’t stay on in real world use. The part that grips the body needs to be MUCH stonger and robust. I don’t want it captured, because then I couldnt swivel it.
The head is a little fat too. I would have been happy with 2 LEDs instead of three if it meant they could have made the head the same daimeter as the battery tube, if not even narrower. Or they could have arranged the LEDs all in a single row to make the head narrower.
I don’t really like Lumintop as a company. I’ve had too many failures with no real recourse, and they just keep on pumping out mediocre stuff with pretty high prices.
I do like Sofirn though. They really listen to us enthusiasts and their stuff has been hoding up great so far.
Sofirn, are you listening? This is your chance to make the perfect headlamp if you study and then improve on the hl3a. Don’t make it bigger! Keep it short by putting the LEDs on the side of the head where the leds and optics are along side the battery compartment (in other words just like the HL3A) and only the switch/ driver board on the end. It’s the near perfect design.
The other thing that makes it a great design is the way you can heat-shrink some magnets to the clip (if the clip held onto the light body better it would be more useful) and use it as a work light. This way, when you stick it ot a car hood, knife blade in a tree, etc. you can angle and swivel it to point ANY WHICH WAY YOU WANT as long as rhe light will swivel in its clip.
Sofirn, if you make this light I will sing its praises every chance I get. PM me, I’ll send you a sketch.
need to wait a short period of time. When SP10 Pro starts mass production, 2700K version will be available.
Side question: the SC21 pro description doesn't specify CRI. I noticed the non-pro comes in 2 versions (unspecified and 90 CRI). So does the pro come with the LH351D 90 CRI or not?
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yeah, they share the same LED LH351D 90 CRI
Great, thanks for clearing that up. Already ordered one, so that’s good news.